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32h Hybrid Crows Foot FTW.
Looks good, has great torque strength, and radial strength.
Only downfall might be that it's so stiff it's not too comfy when slamming in and out of potholes... but then, if you like the highly responsive kind of wheel it's perfect.
been running that lacing in my rear wheel for a few months. still undecided, nice and stiff but snapped a spoke recently hitting a pothole on my way to an alleycat, one of the radials, ended it up taping it to the adjacent spoke to race. not 100% sure if it would've happened if it was 3x plus it was a bit of a pain sorting out the right length spokes at the time -
Another option is a longer ISO, like a 111mm Campy - the older Athena ones were made like the Miche with 2 adjustable cups so you can still tweak the chainline. Although the cranks no longer work perfectly with the 107, the cranks are still probably more ISO than JIS...
turns out the bb my friend has was a 111mm athena not a centaur as i thought, this was a clear bonus as the factor of it being adjustable has solved the problem of the crank scrubbing the chain stay.
also discovered the cause in checking the frame alignment with some fishing line. turns out the drive side of the rear triangle was sticking out 8mm or so further from the seat stay than the non-drive side, hence why i'm having problems all of a sudden with the miche bb.
not crashed the frame recently just the incident with the drivechain locking up and the wheel moving, can only guess this has deformed the rear triangle?!
anyway, new frame time..... maybe go for a nice steel one...
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i'll come, prob need a 56cm bike
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Another option is a longer ISO, like a 111mm Campy - the older Athena ones were made like the Miche with 2 adjustable cups so you can still tweak the chainline. Although the cranks no longer work perfectly with the 107, the cranks are still probably more ISO than JIS...
cool, i'm trying a 111mm centaur bb today, fingers crossed. will keep an eye out for one of the athena ones too. thanks for your help
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The Miche cranks are ISO, you've rammed them onto a JIS taper Shimano BB, if the chainline is now different when going back to the Miche I'm afraid to say it sounds like you have distorted the tapers on the cranks when you used the Shimano BB - ISO and JIS are not really meant to be mixed - you can do it, I've done it myself (with cheap cranks!), but there is always the risk that permanent changes to the crank tapers will result... I very much doubt there is anything wrong with the frame, it would have to be bent like a banana for that amount of difference at the chainstay result!
ah, bollocks, that's all i need. thanks for clearing it up though. at least i've got a good idea whats wrong with them now.....
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shimano is jis taper, miche advanced are iso so not ideally matching. i've been running a miche bb which has been ok until recently. i've installed a replacement and am now having real issues with it.
looking into replacing it with a campag cenrtaur or nos chorus if i can find one. will let you know what it's like
there's also sugino and phil bbs which should do the job but the phil is quite pricy and the sugino isn't sealed afaik
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Try the string method to check your frame alignment, see towards bottom of page:
awesome, i'll give that a go, hopefully it's not the case
What are the cranks? Reason I ask is that there are a lot of 'track' and 'single speed' cranksets knocked out cheap that are actually doubles and to get a 42mm chainline you need to mount the ring on the inside of the spider, which of course looks a bit cack in comparison but that's why they're cheap.
If this isn't the case (I don't ever remember seeing miche doing this on-the-cheap type of c/set), then I'd definitely check frame alignment as per the Sheldon link above.
miche advanced cranks, track specific
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What's the axle length on your BB?
You'd be better off getting a longer axle to push your crank arm further out. I think those Miche BBs are only meant to be adjustable + or - 2mm?You might also want to check your cranks, they might be JIS instead of ISO (look up on Sheldon) which I think means they would sit closer in on the axle which could be contributing to your problem.
Your Micke cranks are definitely ISO, which would be part of the reason the Shimano (JIS) bb put the chainline way out.
Given you're running a track frame with (presumably) track cranks, a (presumably) 107mm Miche ISO bb (track standard for Miche track crank/track hub) and a 120mm spaced hub, you shouldn't have anything like the problems you're having, unless the frame/bottom bracket shell or bottom bracket are damaged.
As someone suggested in your original thread, I'd check the frame alignment. I'd also have your bb shell chased and faced before installing a new Miche bottom bracket.
yeah cranks are definitely iso taper, miche bb is 107mm as Bluah says.
hub is a gran compe so is 120mm, miche advanced track cranks and miche sprocket and lockring too. bit of a puzzler especially since the previous miche bb provided a satisfactory set up. only thing i can think is that the previous bb was 110mm (as miche do manufacture them) however looking online in the the shops there is only dotbike that sell them and they have to order them from miche so i'd be surprised if that was the case.
is a frame alignment check something i can do myself or is it best getting taking it back to the lbs? just looking at the frame now everything seems to be ok although i'm not sure what the indicators of a misaligned frame would be?!
would facing the shell make any difference given the miche cups have no flanges? should note i torqued the cranks and bb on to the right tension and chased the shell myself in the workshop at the lbs
have though about swapping the miche out for a campy but they are alot more expensive and i don't want to have to buy a couple in order to find one that gives a good chainline.
is it likely that i've bent the drive side crank arm, might explain the arm scrubbing the chainstay?
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Following on from the issues i recently had with my previous miche BB http://www.londonfgss.com/thread19544.html i temporrarily installed a cheap shimano BB to tide me over till the replacement miche turned up at my LBS.
the shimano wasn't great and the chainline was way out so decided to reinstall a miche despite my previous problems (the bb is english threaded incidently)
the issue i'm having now is that although the previous miche BB stuck out a few mm drive side, this one now needs to stick out even more and has reached a point where in order for my drive side crank to clear the chainstay the bb has to be shifted over quite alot to the drive side.
this then means the non drive side crank is right up against the BB shell
as it is the drive side crank just about clears the chainstay but everytime i accelerate the crank flexes and knocks the chainstay which is really pissing me off.
the frame is a dolan pre cursa with no history of collisions and miche advanced cranks and chainring. totally confused as to why i'm now having problems with a setup that was fine initially
any help would be really appreciated
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Like this:
like it but that font looks too much like a Modern Toss Mr Tourette rip off....
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Is it English or Italian threading?
There has been discussion here previously about Italian Mickeys undoing.
Never heard of the whole BB wandering left though....
think it's english threading as it's a dolan frame...
Check frame alignment.
is me skidding likely to cause the frame to go out of alignment? would've thought some kind of collision or serious force would be involved to cause that?!
Electrical tape does work, your best bet may be to try a little lock-tight on the threads. It normally makes my BB cups stay in place months longer than they normally would. You may also want to take a look at your chain-line next time you put in your BB.
chainline seemed bang on when i installed it, hence why the bb was sitting a few mm out of the shell drive side. will use some loctite when i realign it tomorrow, hopefully that'll stop it re-ocurring -
Just been for a ride through the city centre (Manchester, not London) and had a bit of a weird rear wheel lock-up when skidding to a stop. Chain was real slack, looks like the rear wheel has slipped in the dropouts and moved forward, no real biggy.
Problem is now my drive side crank arm is scrubbing my chainstay. Previous to this incident there was a 2-3mm gap between the crank arm and the stay with a similar distance on the non drive side.
As i have a Miche BB, one of the ones with adjustable cups, when i set the chainline up the bb cup extended a couple of mm out of the bb shell drive side with the nondrive side cup sitting a couple of mm inside the bb shell.
it now looks as though the whole bb (ie the cups on both sides) have shifted towards the nondrive side a few mm, making my crank arm scrub. looking at the bb it seems as though the driveside cup isn't sticking out as much as it previously was, although this is just guessing as i can't clearly remember.
Anyone aware of this happening previously or is this even possible given the thread directions on the shell?
Trying to think about it in my head but can't remember which way the bb screws on each side. If it has slipped i would definitely be looking into replacing the bb with one with non-adjustable cups to prevent this happening again.
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The Shimano Alfine gruppo is designed for comfort/trekking bikes, so I wouldn't expect top-notch performance.
In practical terms, there is a lack of crank length choices and a limited range of chainrings in both tooth count and pitch.
That said, for cummuting/leisure purposes it's probably a fine choice. Equally, for a singlespeed conversion with the splendid Alfine chain tensioner it's probably a winner.
brilliant, awesome response, thanks!
i'd rep you if i could
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Anyone know much about these chainsets? Single ring, external BB, seem an ideal choice for fixed riding, or is there something i'm missing?
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does it cost anything? hope not as i am brassic...
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which can be pretty ridiculous ;)
By the way, I didn't intend to tell people what to do with their bikes or where they're allowed to use them though, there are plenty of people on here who can do that quite competently..
If I had funds to throw away and a place to store ludicrous amounts of bicycles I'd probably get one myself.. I fear though that these will be rare as hens teeth and with a price tag to match
sure one was posted in the ebay thread, a german auction that didn't seem to go for that much. can't find it despite trawling through the thread, not sure i'm going far back enough however more sure i have a lack of patience
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If you're thinking of getting one to ride around London, be ready to get laughed at
not necessarily to ride on the streets, and certainly not around London, just general interest really. doesn't look anymore ridiculous than the lo-pros people ride round
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repost, repost, repost... i know, i know, but who is this with the overly high baseboards and the occasionally lush bikes?
anyone know anything more about these style frames, bars coming from top of forks?
is the style called anything in particular? any frame builder specialise in them? would like to look into picking one up but not sure where to start -
£100. Well worth it, it really is a beautiful frame.
aye, i really like it. would you be interested in exchange with my fausto coppi k28? ally frame also, 56cm, top tube, 54cm seat tube. how has the logo been painted over? would it be practical to remove the paint without damaging the original paintwork?
got a brand new wheelset i could offer as an alternative to the coppi?
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how much would you want for the frame alone?
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the concorde is my friend miles, it definitely catches the eye.
chatted to the guy with the black conversion with high bmx bars, told him about mcr bike stuff.
was in london yesterday and didn't see a single fixed bike. well a few, it's a fun game looking out for them, if a bit like train spotting.
miles and biles?
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I've got an over-sized DEDA in Black (the lighter aluminium version) that has been used for 10mins...
sorry, should have been more clear, looking for standard clampsize, not OS.
appreciate it though -
anyone got any black drops, preferably non-anatomic ones? (ideally nitto b123s although this is obviously a rather long shot)
also after some black, deep drop bull horns, like the mavic ones or old profiles (not airwings)
cheers!
LFGSS
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wicked, tried to mike it kinda musical....
131070,66050,66050,0,131070,65536,65536,65534,6553 6,65534,0,131070,0,66558,66050,130562