Search results for:

There was a super unusual argos touring frame for sale on the CTC For Sale forum recently, looked like a massively long head-tube. Worth having a peek, if only to see what's possible. Any decent custom frame-maker should be able to sort you out.

EDIT: this one http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=30333

eVent has been around a fair while too (10 years or so, from memory). And, it has far high usage among hard-core users than gore-tex, relative to the average user (at least in my experience) - if there were issues, these people simply wouldn't use the stuff and you'd hear about it. You don't, anyone that uses eVent (that I know) doesn't look back. And the fact that the no-compromise climbing clothing manufacturers use it speaks volumes. E.g. Rab, Crux:

http://www.crux.uk.com/en/crux_technical_eventfabric.php

I put Gore-tex's market dominance down to superior marketing and Microsoft-esque anti-competitive practices :-)

The whole point of Paclite is that its lightweight and you can compress it down easily without damaging the fabric (or rather its designed to be compressed down, whereas normal gore-tex fabrics aren't), I don't get the point of this eVENT lark, lightweight but not designed to be compressed down, heavier than Paclite but lighter than Goretex, it can't seem to make up its mind?!
If I was going to go with a lightweight and durable shell jacket (i'm talking non cycling specific here), it'd have to be HH or Berghaus IMO.

The point of eVent is this:

In a two-fabric world (Paclite & ProShell, say), Paclite is not an option for a group of people on adequacy grounds, it's just too fragile for serious outdoor use. So you're left with ProShell. Along comes eVent. It passes the adequacy test - the stuff is tough. But it gives you: lighter weight, both from the fabric and design (no need for pit-zips with eVent!); greater breathability. Two massive pluses! There's basically not reason not to chose it - it is the better fabric.

Armwarmers: Santini from prendas.

Base layer: can't go wrong with Merino.

If I cared about that I wouldn't go with Paclite, i'd go with a heavier weight Goretex

No, you'd go with eVent, see?! All the breathability of paclite, with the great wear characteristics you've come to expect from gore-tex :-)

Goretex Paclite > eVENT.

Not if you care about not ripping your jacket!

Did you know that Gore-tex comes in different weights to?

Yeah, but Gore-tex is shit - Event is where it's at :-)

Yeah, but the other point is that I don't want to have to worry about using "proper" detergent to wash my stuff, either at home or away. Quite frequently on trips, soap or shampoo in cold water is the mode of washing, and this categorically does not work with smelly-hellys, but does with merino!

BTW you do know that merino comes in multiple weights? I happily use it year round without getting sweaty and I generally run quite hot.

For the merino and lycra and stuff, I just use a very mild non-bio. I now only own 1 HH-esque poly-propelene top which I have to hot wash with nasty detergent to get clean, and even then it's a bit smelly.

Base-layers for more than 2 days... never been touring, or camping?! 5 days in my merino top on a climbing trip was the longest between washes - despite lots of physical exertion and sleeping in it, it was still passable* at the end. Long lasting thermals are a real bonus, because you only have to buy a couple to see you good.

(*at least relative to the rest of me!)

I don't have that problem with merino (staying damp). I mean, yes it remains slightly damp to the touch but it does keep you snug, which is the key thing.

Of the synthetics, the only one I really like and can live with is Patagonia Capilene. Very nice on the skin, wicks extremely well, very durable, and no longer term smell problems, although you can't wear it as much as merino between washes.

Can't stand HH thermals, find them extremely uncomfortable and, after some use, the odour is impossible to get rid of. Plus super unstylish IMO!

I'm similarly sitting here in an icebreaker merino top. It's 4 years old and has about 8 holes in it! Otherwise it's brilliant :-) Seriously, I don't think I'd buy anything else - yes, it's a little more fragile than synthetics (I have other synthetics going back years and still going strong!), but the odour control is outstanding and I love the feel of it next to your skin.

You might want to google dave hinde....

dave hinde - Google Search

I have a FSA SLK Pro crankset and think it's excellent. Got it for an extremely good price at Planet X (c. £120). However, the FSA crank you posted the link to has an ISIS bottom bracket - are you aware that the bearings on these get shot pretty fast? I'd highly recommend going for an outboard BB design e.g. something with FSA MegaEXO - far more reliable, lighter, stiffer. In which case the price shoots up and a Shimano offering could well be better value.

Didn't take a pic of the 25mm bit but you get my gist...

@Donut! - that completely misses the point!

80-90psi is only an appropriate pressure if you've got 25mm tyres on.
105psi+ is an appropriate pressure for 23mm tyres. (80psi in a 23mm is going to be dreadful, I'd never advocate that!)

Correctly inflated, 25mm tyres run at lower pressures than 23mm tyres - this is the puncture protection advantage, among other things.

Duck tape makes a good temporary repair.

This lot:

http://www.imagescotland.com/scottishmountaingear-home.asp

Scotland.

I got a big gash in a waterproof jacket invisibly repaired a few years ago. Worked great. Can't remember the name of the place though... somewhere north, maybe lakes, northumberland? I'll have a think...

Isn't it annoying when science goes against natural instinct eh?

And we haven't even started talking about weed yet. Or helmets ;-)

do you really think a tyre at lower pressure has less chance of punctures? do you ride a bike or drive a f##king tractor?

Yes, absolutely and without a doubt!* And I ride a load. And I use tyres, at appropriate pressures, that people dismiss for being puncture prone (e.g. open corsas). And I don't tend to puncture much.

• The caveat is that you have to have enough pressure to avoid pinch flats. Pinch flats are caused by too low pressure. But casing punctures are made worse by higher pressure. There is a trade off and a sweet spot. Also with ride and handling.
  

the width of the tyre IS NOT going to affect your likelyhood of punctures to a great extent. Ultra races have shit puncture protection so just get something better and pump it up to just below the max pressure.

My goodness, have you not read the thread :-)

Width matters because it allows you to lower your pressure. Lower pressure matters because it reduces the chance of puntures. Do not pump up to the max, it's ridiculous, and ride quality and handling suffer massively too!

oh?

you try running 19 mm tires at 120 psi.

I have. (A few years back). The ride's crap and the handling's shit. And they're not that fast, unless you happen to have aero section wheels.

In the past year, I've used and abused a range of tyres. The fastest, without a doubt, are my 25mm Pro Race 3, running at 85/90psi. Hands down the fastest tyre I've used, and it's noticeable. I'm also currently using 23mm Open Corsa IIs 110/115psi, which serves as a good comparison, because it's widely recognised to be one of the fastest 23mm tyres out there. (Corsas for the dry, PR3 for the wet, though the PR3s are now on full-time). And it's not as fast as the PR3. Same wheels, same bike.

The more solid the less likely something is going to impale in to it. If it's a soft tire, you may aswell have playdough wheels.

No! The casing is the bit that's soft and it doesn't change it's softness with pressure!!!!

Here's an instructive Blue Peter style home experiment...

Take some kitchen foil, blutack, drawing board pins, and a bag of flour.

Construct a shitty pieve of road by blutacking the pins point up. Drag the sheet of foil over the pins. Sprinkle a little flour on top of the foil. Drag. Sprinkle. Drag. Sprinkle. Drag. How much flour does it take to puncture the foil? None? A lot? Little?

A Blue Peter badge for the first correct answer :-)

@CrazyJames - Tyre width and pressure go hand in hand. Yes, 80-90 psi on a 23mm is bad/flat/slow/puncture prone. I don't recommend anyone do this!!! 80-90 on a 25mm is correctly inflated. If you're running wider 28mm, you could go even lower. If you're on the heavy side, go a little harder.

@Donut! - like most things in life, don't knock it till you've tried it :-)

Ok, I'm bored of this now. Whatever works for ya, I'll stick to my method and stay relatively puncture free :)

Dude, by all means! But graduate off your 23mm at 140psi and try 25mm tyres at 90psi for a week and I'll eat my hat if you don't go wow, that was a revalation ;-)