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DUDE no. You can get track hubs in low and mid flanges. Unless you want to be running gears on this bike, don't go around asking for road hubs! Mine are for a geared bike.
I would recommend you deal with Phil Wood directly... BLB and the other hip hop shops will look at you funny when you say you don't want Hi Flange track hubs. There's an order form on the Phil site, get some advice if you need it from them on the phone, or us. They won't respond to emails probably. You may get stung on import tax, unless you can get them delivered to someone in the US whom you're gonna see sometime...?
re: rims well actually no I was being lazy. Box section is a really old fashioned shape like this:
whereas the DTs and Open pros are more like this:
i.e. less square than the top ones, but not deep V (aka Aero) profile like this:
(I have used these illustrations of drc rims cos they have a handy cross-section diagram on them.)
Hope this is of some help.
Has anyone any experience of the box section type rims like the above? I have been looking into gettin low profile wheels, but dont want tubs. What are they like in comparison to the open pro's?
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If you do 2 miles on the flat, and noone sees you, then a 12.99 skid lid from halfrauds will be as good as anything. But any miles you'll desperately want good ventilation. Weight has an impact on comfort, so even if it feels ace in the shop, after a while it will start to dig into your bonce. I think the most competitive price bracket is between 30 and 50, they seem to be gettin nice and light and lookin good.
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I just recently got some beans off these people, proper nice! http://www.thebeanshop.co.uk/
I only use a manual grinder and a bialleti moka express, no good for proper espresso (no crema) but very happy wi latte and capp's results. I recommend their celebes kalossi. -
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Truth is, the helmets not gonna stop you getting knocked out or getting concussion which are the most common head injuries in cycling accidents. These are just a result of the trauma involved, making the brain bounce around in its box. What it will stop is a skull fracture if it hits a blunt object (car, road, lamp post...) and your head absorbs all the energy before it gets dissipated by somet else. This is quite unlikely in most accidents cos your hands, arms, legs, elbows and just about everything else is instinctively thrown in front of your head. But thats not all the time. So I say hedge your bets cos brain bleeds/ sub dural haematomas aren't fun!
But im lucky cos i look too much of a dick anyway to worry about it all being spoiled by a helmet. -
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P.S. if you fancy going on the back and having a whirl, its the cylinder shaped things that are the capacitors that make you shake and hair stand up. Never underestimate these, i put my hand in the back of an AC15 (small amp, not much power) that had not been plugged in for 20 years. I was seeing stars, and strangely feeling stars for about 2 hours.
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Humming and smokey smell can often mean output transformer, dont try that one yourself. Unfortunately, its not a cheap repair. The part alone can be about 70 nicker if its anything over about 30 watts. Valves dont generally smoke when they go, they are like light bulbs, they just go. Transformers generally smoky smoky. Expect to pay round the £50 mark for the guy to do the job.
(i work in a guitar shop, but up norf so im no use to ya) -
currently going through the same greaving process, taxi pulled out on me last week. Killed my Bob jackson, I'd waited 10 month for it to be delivered, then id only done 200 miles on it before it got wrecked. No matter how much someone say's 'it could have been worse' it doesn't help.
But hey, it could have been worse. -
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Last ditch attempt; try cooling one then heating the other. This works better assuming seat post is alu and frame is steel. Pour a kettle full of boiling water over frame and get someone else to pour cold water over post. This is how industrial bearings are shifted, so might work on the frame, i admit it didnt last time i tried, but that seat post had been in there 20 years sans lube. It can work instantly, but worry not if it doesnt, as steel cools slower than alu so it can still release while cooling. hope it works. I had to cut top of seat post and burr the post out from the inside. Not fun.
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I got taught a method by an old bloke who's been riding fixed since gad was a lad, he said to loosen both side of the hub, pull the chain side back as far as you hand can stand and tighten the nut on that side, this will have pulled your wheel out of line. Then pulling the wheel into line will add a little more tension to the chain. Just the right amount so far as i can see. Hope this helps. If anyone has any reasons this will kill my bike, please tell me before it does.
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I think there is room for people to talk inain nonsense to one another, its entertaining. Ive asked some stupid arsed questions in this forum and got a beasting for it. And rightly so, but I have seen some people asking good questions, i.e. techy questions or questions on supply of parts, and had an equal roasting for it when all they needed was info. I dont subscribe to the naming of groups (mostly cos i don't understand which groups are which) but some folks like to ridicule before helping out. Thats what makes me cry at night.
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Voted for 8 and think its the best.