-
-
I'll stick my oar in with a vote for the wrench force mini road, and some words about a couple of others:
Blackburn airstick
I had one of these short fat double-acting pumps, and it worked well until its valve springs rusted. They compress air on both the in and the out parts of the stroke. Air enters down the shaft from the handle to the plunger where ring valves allow it out to the chambers on either side of the plunger. Air compressed by the out stroke makes its way to the head through the double skin that makes these pumps quite fat for the amount of air they move. The out stroke is almost as hard as the in stroke, something i found slightly awkward. I liked the pivoted handle.
Specialized air tool
Smart looking, single acting pumps. The slim bodies of the road and mini road versions promise high pressures. I've used and dismantled the road version, and looked closely at the mini road ones in shops.
The mechanism for locking the handle to the body for storage interferes with pushing the piston all the way when pumping. This makes them quite inefficient at high pressures as a significant volume of compressed air is wasted on each stroke. This can be fixed by removing the locking tabs if you intend to keep the pump in your bag.
I liked the slimmness and long stroke of the road air tool, but, without a compression lever, i found its rubber connector fiddly and unreliable.
The decals seem to be soluble in sweat and suncream.
Wrenchforce mini road
A slim pump with a slightly 'value' appearance. Double acting, but with roughly the opposite air flow to the backburn pumps, and the better for it. Air enters through valves at both ends of the cylinder, and ring valves on the plunger allow air into the shaft, from where it flows down a thin axial pipe to reach the head of the pump. This is a slimmer arrangement than the blackburn, and there are no springs to rust. The out stroke is always significantly easier than the instroke, partly because the volume of the shaft into which the air is being forced is increasing as the axial pipe is being withdrawn from it. I think the stroke length is a little longer than the blackburn i had too.
Perhaps the out stroke is so easy as to not be worth the complexity, but in practice i've found this pump effective and (so far) reliable, and the internal design is much neater than the blackburn.
This pump has a pivoting handle like the blackburn, and a connector with a compression lever that rattles. I fixed the rattle with an elastic band, and this i my favourite pump so far.
-
I'm not familiar with SRAM hubs, but a bit of googling suggests that many of them use the same system as Sturmey Archer hubs - i.e. the sprockets are held on by split ring of spring steel that sits in an annular groove, and can be pried off with a screwdriver. I suggest taking a closer look at yours and it that doesn't help, either posting photos or searching the sram website.
-
I was moved. I didn't know Eilidh, but i came to pay tribute to a fellow cyclist, and to show her family and friends that the world does care about this. I will remember the ride, and Eilidh, and those she left behind.
Thank you to everyone who helped it go smoothly, and to the drivers who had patience with us.
-
- Shinscar
- Scott not scot
- 50/14
- Charco
- P!MP
- won't-do-hills
- Big Daddy Wayne
- horatio
- cliveo
- tomasito
- Bianca
- GA2G
- eyebrows
- rik
- kattt (+big sis & mama)
- dante
- VelocityBoy
- ladystardust
- gabes
- villa-ru
- alockett
- spudger
- Gina
- mattty
- Object
- hael
- pIqUe
- Elguapo
- Gustav
- WiganWill.
- tika
- town
- alexb
- slag
- murtle
- Dandy Horse
- VeeVee
- fred
- wools
- Mrlemon
- Squash
- Dammit
- yeh731
- Vic
- Matt (baddesigner)
- Clefty
- kowalski
- fruitbat
- fresh
- Skully
- Mini Skully
- Timmy2wheels
- BRM
- Dancing James
- Spins
- Speedball
- first lift last call
- andyp
- badtmy
- Jacqui
- DirtyD
- Soul
- Ev
- Prav
- Ferris
- MA3K + Kid
- Malibu
- Wibble
- TheRottenClub
- jonny
- Roxy
- Mike -Trampsparadise
- Snowy_Again
- Timmy
- Mackenzie
- Stelle
- BlueQuinn
- RockSteady
- moog
- Nosferatu
- spaghoops
- Oliver Schick
- Whatamidoing
- johnny h
- stringerman
- shootthebreeze
- Donut!
- Sharkstar
- motman
- JOL
- arvy
- stimpy - there's be lots of others who i know are friends of eilidh (like me) who arent on this forum who will coming too
- mashton
- Stix
- Khornight (+mrs and child prob)
- VeLLo
- Andrea
- Libtech (I'm also a friend of Eilidh's and know about 10 other people that will be coming)
- marcoisapolo
- Ombre
- MrBig-G
- eddie
- Dilworth
- Johnny Fitz
- danny fitz
- Jo Clegg (I'll be in AUS but will enjoy a ride that day for Eilidh)
- koens
- ondine
- pearcey
- dasmiller
- eggpie
- robvalentine
- TheTeleflorist
- Max72
- Deluka
- sorethroat
- Buffalo Bill
- fatboyralph
- coppiThat
- skiver
- Bombcup
- XTR.
- Pistaboy
- benjeebee
- huge16
- chatters
- BigFatAl
- Robofoxx
- Sano
- Kirth
- somebody
- glory311
- Punkpixel
- dimi3
- ehren_fried_chicken
- philjay
- gus + rae
- Simpson79
- Gormley
- steves
- brunette
- Hatrack
- Balki
- hassanr
- jonlubi +1
- Jonaent + as many people that knew Eilidh as I can get on a bike!
- samuelglanville (i'm in the same boat as hassanr)
- EM
- Minh Ai
- Hops
- Vinylpimp
- CHUG_IT
- mjs110
- Chopkins
- Pistagem & a couple of fixed friends not on the forum
- chris (crabtree)
- Nick (guerillaphoto) and I have room for 2 others, I will be driving from Brighton for this.
- addie
- hillbilly
- JAH tim
- saoirse50
- anderson.jh
- MattS
- Djm778
- Danboy + mrs
- kisu_shimo
- PicKle
- El Squire
- Fixedwheelnut
- dt
- phasergunalex
- robotcommute
- not4sale
- DDM I hope, depending on work. If I can't make my thoughts will be there.
- t-4003 + the wife (as long as her bike is working by then)
- Evil Munchkin
- Mush
- Cajeta
- Butter
- tricitybendix
- zoo
- MTC
- doc_si
- Jayloo
- NurseHolliday
- Hussy
- Build
- Domi
- Bigbadvoodoodave
- Paul-M
- purple_tom
- Dr. Sludge
- slamm
- eoinmc
- mattilda
- fluff
- Dylan
- Twist305
- oleleo (depending on work)
- Ved (now free)
- coppiThat
- TheSingingPie (Dave)
- mikec( Will join late )
- Pistanator
- morgasm
- Lurker103 +1
- Lucky
- Johnny_Tang_888
- The Joker
- Persian - this is an incredible idea
- richiem
- 4Play
- BobbyK
- Marcola
- Jimmy G
- Dropout (now confirmed on day's leave).
- savant
- KingMob
- photoben
- Hovis Brown
- emab
- hussy
- 105champ
- reeen
- Scrapper
- bzb
- d14vd_h
- PQR
- emmajean
- tricky woo
- trnk
- moth
- Shinscar
-
I hadn't actually noticed you had written a response beyond the . because of the quote fail.
You appear to be selectively reading my posts, I had raised objections ages ago to the thread direction the thread was going in.
My point about mooks post was that if you're bothered by the existence of something, then life is going to be tough. You can't do much about the existence of something unless you want to eradicate it, and on a forum that is censorship. I can live with the existence of anything, whether I agree to it or not... because I find censorship to be the worse of the two evils.
I thought that my paraphrasing of Voltaire later in the post made that clear... it's not that I disagree with mooks general sentiment about the direction of the thread. But as I'm not going to be censoring the forum it does seem utterly pointless to allow yourself to get worried too much about it.
It's taking things way too seriously to be worried by the existence of something, it's just a thread on a forum on a site on the internet, and I've already suggested that if people are bothered then perhaps having the antithesis thread to highlight how boys might feel about being treated as objects could be one of many things to show your disapproval.
I hate writing posts like this, because it sounds like I give a fuck when actually I don't... because I prefer to just enjoy the forum than get wrapped up in these tedious debates. I should probably just Godwin the thread and bung you on ignore, it's always the easier option.
The fact that stuff happens is not an adequate argument against being bothered by it, nor is it clear that starting a thread to objectify men would balance out this thread. I think the most direct sensible reaction is to stand up and object, not in expectation of calling down authoritarian censorship, but simply to communicate what you feel. So +1 to Mooks and the taggers for that.
What i hope for now is debate, more views, and above all mutual respect. I don't expect LFGSS to reach a coherent consensus on so fraught an issue. I'm not even consistent within myself. I have been deeply uncomfortable about what the images in this thread imply about respect for women as people, and increasingly worried about how they would make others feel, yet (as a lonely single man) I have enjoyed looking at some of them.
I don't want anyone to save me my own bad thoughts, but I'm thankful to Mooks and the taggers for reminding me that this thread exists not just in the privacy of wherever we view it from, not just within the anonymity of the internet, but also (to the extent that it exists) in the shared mental space of the community that is LFGSS.
-
-
-
-
-
Have got the sprocket off, am now struggling with the 'RH cone locking washer'. It's a funny shape and I think that it's bent.
It should just pry off, and that will allow you to remove the right hand cone, but not much more. I would leave the RH cone until you have removed the RH ball ring from the shell.
-
I may have done this - what's the keeper ring?
The armature probably includes some magnetically-soft iron to provide a low-energy path for the magnetic field lines to get between the north and south poles. Take this away and the same amount of field passing through air would have a lot more energy - more than the magnets can withstand, so instead they will re-arrange the magnetic fields within themselves to mostly cancel out, and so become much weaker. A keeper is a piece of soft iron placed between the poles of the magnet before or as the armature is removed so that there is always a low energy, high permeability path for the field, thus preventing the magnets becoming unstable.
(As you work against the magnetic field to pull the armature out of the magnet you add energy to the field. Use a keeper and the armature will be removed with much less force - the keeper being pulled in and helping to push the armature out.)
With the hub in the state shown (left-hand cone removed) the next step in dismantling it is to remove the thick spring wire circlip holding the sprocket on by prying at the three semi-circular notches.
To unscrew the right-hand-side of the hub (K60 in BlueQuinn's diagram) from the shell, apply rust penetrating oil to the join and leave overnight, then clamp the shell in a vice and tap sharply at the notches in the ball ring with the shaft of a cheap screwdriver and a hammer. The ring unscrews anti-clockwise, looked at from the right.
moth
-
how do you drop something with no gravity?
Not so much drop as allow to drift away. With no gravity to hold things down, nothing stays where you put it unless there is something holding it there. Hopefully the bag of tools will fall into the atmosphere and burn up without smashing into any satellites.
-
Fun ride, cheered me up a lot. Thanks.
+1 on letting cars past when it makes sense - this isn't critical mass...
I was with the group who headed back east via Notting hill - sorry to anyone we dropped going up the hill (no idea why we went that way). Waited a bit at the top, but perhaps not long enough. Hope anyone left behind made it home ok.
moth
-
-
I cured mine of this by making the ends of the pinions slightly flared (as suggested by Jobst in the article i linked before). The steel is very hard so i got a set of small diamond files to do it.
The blow-up diagram of the modern version shows a completely different clutch mechanism - hopefully it doesn't suffer from this at all.
-
-
I love sturmey archer hubs too. Normal 3-speed hubs have a direct drive and two gears that are the inverse of each other. I think 4:3, 1:1, 3:4 is common. (I think of them as 'starting off', 'normal', and 'full hurtle'.) Once you get the knack you can accelerate away from stopped faster than most other cyclists. Where derailleurs need a period of forward peddling at reduced pressure to change, especially across a wide range of gears, a hub gear can change with only a moment of back-peddle, so you can get back to putting power down straight away.
There is one thing to watch out for when riding old 3-speed hubs which is explained here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/sturmey-archer.html. Basically, there is a neutral gear somewhere between top and direct drive, and very occasionally when you are peddling very hard in top, the hub will jump into neutral. It happened to me twice in several years of daily cycling, and i (just) managed not to fall off when it did. I've modified my current hub to prevent this. The old 5-speed hub I had before that didn't do this (it's clutch engaged with dedicated protrusions on the face of the planet carrier, rather than with the planet pinions), and i have no experience with the current production. Don't stand up when going fast in top gear and you will be fine - you will be more aerodynamic and can put down more power if you keep your arse just hovering over the saddle anyway.
-
Hey, I don't know if this is useful, but via my job I have links to some parts of the Olympic build and some of the (plant) training that is taking place for it in and around London. I could happily speak to the guys that run these centres/sites and ask if they would dish out some leaflets/info/stick up a poster so that any HGV drivers coming on site get to read some of this stuff. Let me know.
Even better if the olympics could push their sub-contractors to fit modern mirrors on all their big vehicles, regardless of age.
-
More diagrams!
Different people think in different ways. Some people can just be told what (not) to do, some people will be happy if there are words telling them why, and some people (like me) pay most attention to diagrams.
(I know the ones i've drawn aren't too pretty (i'm no designer), so please can someone else have a go at drawing an explanation?)
-
I had an idea for an interesting image to convey blind-spots: Get a lorry somewhere really dark, put a bright light where the driver's head would be, then take a photo from above.
Most of the light would shine out of the front of the cab, but a bit would be reflected by the mirrors and show what areas they reveal.The blind spots would all be shadows, and places that look really tiny in the driver's mirrors would only get a tiny amount of light.
I think basic image with just the light and shadows coming out of the lorry would be really striking, but if anyone wanted more, they could also arrange cyclists and people around the lorry to show who is lit up and who isn't. Could also simulate where the driver is looking by using a spot light.
i.e. something like the attached sketch. The jagged bits are supposed to show where you can be seen if you are tall enough. Left side mirrors based roughly on this. Right side mirrors just made up. Not accurate or anything. Suspect i'm making the mirror traces brighter than they should be.
Is this obvious enough?
-
-
-
I come out in the day too, but i do like riding at night, to the extent that i'm probably a night cyclist on average. Never done an all-nighter before though, and this will be a fairly long ride by my standards - i've only occasionally done more than 50 miles in one go. How much food and clothing do you carry?
Also, I have a spare cateye el510 i can lend to anyone who needs it.