Search results for:

Smallfurry,

Thanks for the headsup about your recent posts - I'll be keen to see how you get on in the next couple of weeks, but may well plump for the Tacx before then.

Info about the front wheel mount is on the Tacx website and Parker International.

No mention on the Tacx website of the "Speedmatic magnetic braking system" for rollers, but available on Parker International and Chain Reaction.

I was thinking about getting a set of rollers and thought I'd revive this thread.

I'm due a knee operation (ACL reconstruction) in a month and a bit and will be off my bike for around 6 weeks post-op. After that, the thought of going straight back to road cycling is a bit daunting, in particular with all the start-stopping that's involved between traffic lights and traffic, so I thought I'd get myself a set of rollers. My plan was to get familiar with them pre-op (with balancing, form, etc.) and then use them as a part of my post-op rehab.

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations to someone who's starting out with rollers? I have around £150 to spend and my main questions were:

1. Any particular model recommendations or stinkers to avoid?

2. Is it worth shelling out the extra cash for a model with some sort of resistance inbuilt, or is the normal resistance enough? (my bikes are geared 74 GI with 172.5mm cranks and 71 GI with 165s, and I find that I can just about spin out on the flat).

3. Are parabolic rollers a waste of time? I would've thought that the fact that they make balancing easier negates half the point of running rollers instead of a turbo in the first place.

4. What do people think about the Tacx Antares Roller? I like the options for a front wheel mount (in case my balance is just too shitty post-op), and resistance modulability.

5. Is this all just a bad idea?

I've got a new pair of MKS tugs, hex-bolt, 5mm, unused. They were mis-sold to me as the fat ones (I needed them for my aluminium frame).

Yours posted for £19, or pickup in WC1 daytime/SW11 evenings.

Im pretty sure the rebuild kits are universal...

Yes and no. Within a range (e.g Egg Beater, Smarty, etc), the rebuild kits are the same - the Wiggle-linked set in the OP will rebuilt any Egg Beater

However, they are not interchangeable between models e.g. you can't use a Quattro rebuild in Egg Beaters - whilst the bearings are the same, other assorted bits such as dustcaps, disposable disassembly tools aren't.

Also make sure you have access to some snap-ring pliers in order to remove the snap ring to start with - or some fine, strong pins or summat.

Arn.

Dibs on Vredestein tyres.

PM'd.

1) ma3k
2) velocio
3) pistanator
4) andyp
5) murtle
6) dmczone
7) hoops.
8) a1astair
9) gizmond
10) fluff
11) bluequinn
12) zed
13) skully
14) big red
15) dangeruss
16) balki bartokomous
17) buddha fingaz
18) damo (p-plates)
19) spins
20) yeh731
21) stevo_com
22) hermes
23) dicki
24) alockett
25)
26) markyboy
27) stompy (texmex style ribs).
28) GA2G
29) jacklamusica
30) fitzy
31) marcom
32) joe + geraint.
33) mia..cooper
34) shoots
35) crispin mygaylover ;)
36) ondine
37) wools
38) kirth
39) cliveo
40) edscoble
41) trip
42) hillbilly
43) deluka
44) kyle
45) tex
46) mania
47) wibble
48) middleofnowhere
49) marcus
50) aleksi
51) chebeef
52) polybikeuser
53) serk
54) jogger
55) joe smith
56) ronnald macnastie
57) Oliver Schick
58) sweaty
59) braker
60) johnny fitz
61) wilbur4th
62) AlienMo
63) ppleasebob
64) BenJam
65) Ray
66) owenreed
67) Reginald
68) VinylPimp
69) teddy
70) d14vd_h
71) Vinylvillain
72) alexnguyen
73) town
74) dovatron
75) tika
76) Theteleflorist
77) hoonz - how the hell did I not see this until now?
78) Mann1e
79) Library Music
80) Khorn
81) nick-nack (although it's possible we won't make it)
82) bsyndrome
83) selim
84) Fox
85) emab
86) buzz lightyear
87) Ross
88) Breadnbutter
89) Zane Chaos
90) atanz
91) Beanpie
92) mattty
93) letrekk
94) dj
95) Cosmonaut
96) atk (alex)
97) joelounge
98) rob.ert_parker
99) okwithmydecay
100) Lookathisguy
101) londonslgss
102) Booga
103) Metrocammell
104) party_paul
105) lardboy
106) ive2dogs
107) Plug One ( Plus about 4 Bristol Riders )
108) Kevinsays
109) Djm
110) Iwelumo
111) Ricky2Slicky
112) T4NY4
113) D. Generate +1
114) hael
115) AlexCoco
116)Jaydeeshanti
117) Bridgey Again
118) Gwyn
119) Mark the Tw@
120)catacaillou
121)soeasy
122)Pman (Paul)
123)Jake
124)arnold gostron (±2 others)

Brixton Bikes used to do Soma Rush frames on order, but didn't have any in when I last visited (6 months ago).

PM'd re: chaintugs

Report it and Report and Report it to the police

Sooner or late it appears as a hot spot on their crime map and then they may pay attention

Also, does Hackney LCC have any links with the Met in the Borough?

+1

They have targets to hit in terms of the number of crimes going to prosecution. Their allocation of resources is skewed towards hitting those targets. The way to make bike crime a priority for them is to report EVERYTHING - the volume of bike crime is so large that if everything were properly reported, they would have to start pouring resources in to sorting the problem out.

'Purple/orange' what were you on?
:-

Real mistake was made when I consolidated my decision by actually lacing up to hubs, rather than cutting my losses and selling/swapping for something cleaner and I am convinced it could work if carefully handled.

Shall swing round 14 when next round that way; I am always a little skeptical of the "slave factor" (i.e. price premium) in that part of town, but if it comes recommended ...

[I nearly used the word "tastefully" instead of "carefully" there, but then realised my error]

Dear All,

During a fit of slavishness, I decided to buy myself a set of foolishly-colored (front purple, rear orange) Velocity Deep V rims for my first wheelbuild, and have just about finished lacing them up.

I'm looking for a steel, track-style frame for my first build. My criteria are:

1. Horizontal top tube
   
2. Fast/twitchy handling and tight geometry - I got in to fixed gear via a 2008 Langster, my current bike, and want something contrasting.
   
3. Steel.
   
4. Non-lugged - I think that lugged frame may look a bit wrong with my very loud wheels.
   
5. With minimal/removable decals and neutral-ish coloring - I'm after a cleanish look.
   
   

I'm happy to go new or second hand, and would prefer sale via a bricks-and-mortar store so I can figure out geometry a bit.

Weight is not too much of an issue - whilst a light bike is sexy, I am neither at 15 stone and 6" with shortish legs.

So far, I've come up with the Soma Rush and Surly Steamroller as possible options, but would appreciate any suggestions.

Arn.

Dear all,

I seem to have messed something up when cleaning my chain, which was caked with winter gunk. It's a newish (~4 month old) KMC 510 being properly cleaned for the first time. I took it off, gave it a good scrub with some citrus degreaser and a toothbrush, gave it a bit of a soak in some engine oil then wiped dry and stuck it back on the bike.

Ever since, the drivetrain [Langster Sugino Messenger OTP to a 14t Dura Ace cog, which was fitted at the same time as the new chain] feels really "clicky", almost as though there is sand in it, and is much louder. It was nice and smooth before, just a little bit "sticky" from the gunk. I also hear a quiet "taptaptaptaptaptaptap", almost as though the chain has somehow stretched and is no longer lining up properly

Could all this be caused by my having stuck the chain on in a different direction/orientation to when I started? Is there any easy way to figure out which way is the right way to stick it together now? Have I spacked things up irretrievably?

Cheers,

Arn.

10 pairs as in twenty tyres total?

New Sugino RD chainset with 50 tooth chainring.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=330293791108&Category=109118

I got a load of DT comp 282mm off www.pedalon.co.uk about two months ago at 40p a spoke, but they seem to have epic website fail currently.

Perhaps they've been crunched by credit?

Dibs on headset if Sparky doesn't come good?

PM'd.

Arn.

+1 for Green Oil.

Hey all,

I am about to embark on my first conversion, with a nice-ish steel road frame I picked up on the cheap on the eBay.

I was discussing the project with a friend who seemed worried that the dropouts, being stamped rather than forged in, would be potentially unsafe for a fixie with the amount of strain that would be put through them.

I'm planning on running a front brake and will be using the bike mainly as a commuter/pub/2nd bike.

Does anyone else think that a stamped dropout is a problem? I can't see that Sheldon has anything to say on the matter.

Thanks for any advice.

Arn.

clubman - why is it undesirable?

I ask as a new owner of a nice old 531 lugged road frame built for 27 inchers, with a plan to getting a long reach brake? Does the long reach mean too much/too little leverage leading brake fail/wheel lockup?

Cheers,

Arn.

Did the spare 48t chainring go with the Sugino cranks?

If not, could I have dibs on those?

Cheers,

Arn.

Hello all,

I'm about to embark on my first wheelbuild, using a set of 32h goldtec hubs and velocity deep-V 700c rims. I've got Roger Musson's Wheel Building book from wheelpro.co.uk.

I'm just about to buy spokes and have to decide between a 3-cross and 2-cross lacing. I was thinking about 2-cross lacing just for a slightly cleaner look. Is this being impractical?

I am heavy (15 stone) and a reasonably powerful rider, so will be putting a fair bit of strain on the wheels. Is the 2-cross likely to be too weak?

I'd appreciate any advice.

As well as any tips for a first-time builder!

Cheers,

Arn.

Dibs if bmx_fred doesn't work out?

I live not too far away and could swing by to check it Tuesday.

Arn.

Does the Bonfanti have braze-ons for mudguards?

If so, I'm interested.

Arn.

I'm interested if all falls through.

PM'd.

Arn.

Dear all,

I hope that I don't incur the wrath of the general fixed-gear/fixed-wheel populus on account of my being a newbie.

I have a mainstream fixed-wheel bike (model name rhymes with "Wangster"), running a 42x16 gearing. Like any sane person, I aspire to a stable of bikes comprising classic old frames built up lovingly, but for the next couple of years, my current bike will have to do.

I'd like to move up to a 46/16 gearing. My LBS (Apex Cycles in Clapham) are very friendly, but don't seem to have a clue when it comes to fixed stuff, so I was thinking for something as simple as this I could swop chainring (+/- chain if absolutely necessary) myself. I'm looking around online for a 46t chainring and am not quite clear what will fit and not. Could I just buy any chainring expecting it to fit, or is there something in particular I should be looking for.

Thanks folks,

Arn.

PS: sorry for jumping on your subcultural bandwagon/contributing to the death of the fixed-wheel phenomenon by buying a Langster/etc.