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I am planning on changing the cog on my Fuji, as the standard 48x15 ratio is a bit high.
Is there a big difference between having 18 and 19 at the back?
I realize the number of skid patches is different and 19T will most likely need getting a new chain.
I also thought briefly about 17 at the back but the difference between 17 and 15 may be too small.
My current fixed is 44x18 and this is too much spinning.
I also thought about going for different chainring, but the FSA crappy cranks from the FUji Track come with sort of dished one and a swithc will probably screw up my chainline.
So what is the advice?

I would think it is the latter one. I think most of those paths are gravel anyway.

Don't wanna start a new thread.
As I am about to become a proud owner of a Fuji Track, I am looking for some brakes and levers.
Those goldfingers or dirty harrys certainly look nice, but they are all 22.2 mm, aren't they?
Fuji bars apparently have 26 mm diameter, any decent levers I canget for it?
Or do I need to start with replacing stem and bars??

I am out if they don't fit.
Cheers.

Are they good for 26mm bars?
If so, I'd take the right one please.

any lockring will strip threads if it is loose and you keep skidding.

It was f... tight. Then I got on a bike, tried to skid stop once, and there I had it.

This lockring is shit.
Stripped my threads on a hub. I was practising skid stopping and not only it came loose. In now resembles 8 with half of it near sprocket and other half on the other side of the thread!!
I recommend everybody changing this as soon as they get the formula hub.

I am definitely up for it, preferably starting next week though.

I am based in Uxbridge, COwley to be precise. Had no idea someone else was around:)
Not a single shop nearby:(
Also going to Brunel. Old baby blue frame turned to fixed, now with mudguards on shouldn't be to hard to spot.

Thanks dangeruss.
Did not stumble upon that store before.

Anybody had an experience with them?
They have a best price for Fuji Track at the moment (282 pounds) but the website does not even list a telephone number.
I was considering a Pista as well, but the 2008 is all gone and the 2009 is now 550 pounds from Evans!!

Thanks.
That is what I reckon. 52 may be too extreme.

Hi Guys,

I know the matter of sizing has been discussed before and I went through the posts (quite a lot of them regarding fuji vs sizing as well), but I still have some doubt.
It is almost winter in terms of cycling weather and just going to the shop and choosing between 54 and 52 frame is not an option, simply not in stock.
So which one would you reckon would fit me?
I am roughly 5'9" but have probably a bit shorter legs for this height than usual.
I measured the distance of floor to crouch (inside leg height) and it turns out to be between 76-81 cm depending on how I take balls into account:):)
I also ride a Trek road bike which is 56 cm and I believe this is a bit big both in terms standover height and the way bike handles.
I used to race MTB and was using a small frame which felt much more agile than the Trek.
So, should I go for the 54 or 52?
Any ideas?
I will probably order online so can't get a test ride unfortunately.

I don't know in reality how big issue it is, but if the bike is fixed, you probably need to watch out during cornering just that little bit more?

Are the wheels clinchers or tubulars?

seriously - look at this mug:

Guys, that truly is my profile!!
Thanks a lot:)

http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=565191392

I actually used 120 hub on 126 frame, but since the dropout were not perfectly parallel I put some spacers I had lying around, about 1.5 mm each. Perfect now.
I advise you do the same.

Time cleats?
Is this a brand or a different type?
Found this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=764
I guess they require special pedals then?

Nice and clear explanation.
I thought they may be weaker or something.
I change the shoes anyway after ride so that's not a problem.

There seem to be many of you riding around using SPD and ATAC, as well as straps.
I ride with none for now, but I really need some sort of "connection"
Point is, everybody using SPD's here seem to use the MTB type with small cleats.
Since I have a geared road bike with road SPD's (large cleats) I would like to obviously use the same shoes for riding fixed.
Question is, are there any special drawbacks for road SPD pedal type as oppose to the small cleat MTB type?
Or can I just use the road pedal on fixed with no problems?

Just to let you know tynan. I'll pass on the cranks.
So if anybody wants them, go ahead.
Cheers.

How much for the dura ace chainset then?
Are those octalink BB's hard to come by? Or any problems with the standard chainline?

That's a shame. I'll probably go for the FSA then. But thanks anyways!

gizmond,
I'll take the crank, ring and bb and probablyt the smaller of the 1/8th chainrings.
I could use help with fitting since I do not have any tools really.
I appreciate that.

I do need the BB as well.
The one I got is a really old one.