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thanks for the input guys, i totally agree on both points. I'm taking my time on the second issue, not worrying about a dead line per say this time. I already have more content, especially in the way of reviews and articles.

The big thing for these scene reviews is photos. I want to try to get a diverse amount, especially in a scene so large.

-krist

Hey,
I used to post around here quite a bit, and i've recently seen some of you guys ordered my zine. Thanks.
So i'm looking for two things right now.
first i'm ALWAYS looking for contributors. anything you'd like, i'd love to use.
Second, I'd like to do an article on London Bike Polo. I'm going to post around in a few spots, shoot some emails etc., but i'd like to gather some more infor from a lot of different players. Mostly for these features it's just photos, with small blurbs about the photo. issue one i covered a bit on Tokyo.
my email is
bikepolozine(@t) gmaildotcom
-Krist

this was well over 4 years ago.

i've not seen that mongoose before, but it actually seems like a pretty nice build for the money. my lady friend may be interested so i can get heff the shitty ross conversion she's so overly attachted to.

what is your definition of on the cheap?

that build makes me miss the hell out of mine (got nicked a year ago).

oops, i left this open while i showered and didn't notice everyone said what i just said. haha

most bikes use whats known as a traditional road geometery: getting you tretched out and in an aggro position. up until recently this was the norm, now companies are offering a compact geometry, making the bike a little shorter up top and using the seat post and stem to compinsate for the shorter tubes. this still might be an issue for you. you should check out a womens specific design. they're made with longer down tubes and shorter top tubes to accomidate what people refer to as teh classic womens shape: long legs and shorter torso. i've found that calling these womens specific frames isn't fair because just as many men are benfited by this as ladies, and theyre harder to sell to men that fit on these bikes better.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/71/l_05bf960be18e4a99adb4fdd30dd262fb.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/63/l_6a2e03104f3542ee866cf9e261223c9e.jpg

my new bike...

Realise this is strictly a ss/fg topic, but I'm putting together a new road bike for the summer, thinking of fitting it with a set of Mavic Ksyriums, but wanted to ask if there are other wheels people would recommend. Anyone have any opinions on Fulcrum or Roval's offerings?
roval's high end is made by campy. i was going to say right off the bat the Ksyriums. we have two pais in the shop and theyre goregeous.

i like the feel of the fulcrums over roval. theyre a more compliant wheel on the shitty roads around here, and seem o absorb the bumps a bit nicer.

so i kinda never really said anything more about my painting so i thought i'd do a quick play by play.

first is stripping the frame.
clean the frame from any grease and dirt and then take a peice of steel wool/wire brush/sandpaper and scuff the surface, especially in any tight sports.

to actually strip the frame i use Aircraft Stripper that you can get here at tons of places (wal mart, auto stores, etc.) You can also use any sort of stripper. it really will attack the frames pretty well. spray the stripper on then let it set 10-20 minutes then scrape of with a butter knife/putty knife/ hard edge metal object. once you scrape the paint off i use a drill with a paint stripper brush on it.
http://hardcoreisdead.com/9.JPG

you'll need to use sand paper to get the tight spots(shown below) clear of the paint . i use emery cloth because its a little more durable.

http://hardcoreisdead.com/3.JPG

then to get rid of all braze on's i get to work with a torch to soften the brazes then use a pair of channel grips/ pliers to pop the braze.

http://hardcoreisdead.com/5.JPG

http://hardcoreisdead.com/6.JPG
http://hardcoreisdead.com/6a.JPG

after i finish that, i sand it down with 2000+ grit sandpaper, then wipe it down with clorox wipes to make sure there is no grease from my hands on the frame (using gloves here aint a bad idea) then dry it of with a lint free cloth.

they will end up like this:

http://hardcoreisdead.com/2.JPG

once prepped i hang the frame in a fashion like this
http://hardcoreisdead.com/7.JPG
the bar prevents it from swinging.

then i use a self etching primer.
http://hardcoreisdead.com/10.JPG

after the frames are coated i sand (with 3000 grit) and prime again with the self etching primer. i do this about three times.

then the frames look like this
http://hardcoreisdead.com/13.JPG

then depending on the color of the paint shoice i will do a coat of white primer or grey.

then i start the painting process. i do all the tubes first. here i do the head tube in almond, and then i painted the top tube, down tube, seat tube, and the stays.
http://hardcoreisdead.com/12.JPG

i found this easier because theyre generally lighter than i do the lugs. if i keep the lugs a lighter colour i will do them first. i then tape them off and do the other.

after 2 -5 coats of colour i do clear coats. between each coat do the same as the primer. the last coat use the highest grit sandpaper you can before the clear coat and between each clear coat.

i used automotive clear coats. there are engine enamals that work great because theyre made to actually take some impact without scratching.

that said here are some tips:
1 do light light coats.

1. don't rush it and try to do it in as open areas as possible. dust will fuck it up. ake sure you don't get any oils on the frame.
   

i got my new bike and had to flip the stem because i got to old/fat/outof shape to ride the true aggressive track geometry.

i got my new bike, a Raleigh rush hour, and it turns out it's equipped better than i was expecting. i wasn't actually expecting true track geometry from it, but it is for better or worse. got it last weds and i've put close over 150 miles on it before sunday when i traveled to my home town (about and hour and a half drive) to go to pick up my friend who has spent the last few weeks driving around a band from the uk called Dead Swans. before the show i decided to go out for a ride in my old 'hood. I'm taking it pretty easy because i've yet to learn how to skid very well in my pumas and clips because i haven't put on the new pedals yet. i tooka few killer hils a lot faster than i wanted and then met up with a few friends of mine randomly while riding. my friend chris and i tok off and we kept taking turns leading. as i over took him to lead i went around a left turn and just as i did a car came barreling out of an alley/ driveway and the rear panel of the car hit my front wheel and put a huge dent in the wheel.

so i wobbled back to the venue to meet up with my girlfriend and our friend that we came with/to get went to the show and afterwards we were fucking around in the parking lot shooting fire works at the band, and my girlfriend, with our bikes on a rack, backed into a wall and fucked up my rack and further bent my wheel. her bike, totally fine.

god damnit. maybe i shouldn't even bring bikes around girls. fuck. she just volunteered to work at the boston NACCC this year. i can't wait to see what happens to me then...

i just wrote a long version of what hippy said. oops. but uh. he's right.

i need a taller gear. 48:11 is too slow for country rides.

i guess that's about-20°c

i wore a balaclava once. it was nice. it was also -4° + windchill.

we're a cervello dealer and i'm yet to sell a single fucking one. the other branch does ok with them i guess, as there are a lot of dr.s and rich folk that live there, but fuck me if i ever see anyone on them. i guess they look great hanging in a garage.

skull candy sound like shit and fit terrible. for the price i've a pair of sony and a pair of roland i used when i dj'd that sound just as good if not better, and canceled noise much better. i have shure ear buds for when i ride. i still use my gen one nano to listen on the ride. at home it's strictly technics 1200sl through my PA.

like i said. scissor car jack:

it's fast and quite and cheap.

use a car jack.

ordering phils today. very excited.

i'm doing the S works langster full campy since i'll basically only be running it on track.

well it's going to be either these or the campy

Your avatar would suggest the decision has already been made
I love campy, but i'm not so obsessed i wouldn't take a better component. that why i was looking for input. even the shop manager at work said he wasn't sure which way to go and he can tell you the year every new campy part was put into production and stopped.

I'm going to try to obtain the special edition phil hubs.

as of right now the wheels are going on to the rush hour i just ordered until i get enough for a better frame.

i have a set of DT swiss 1.2s that need lacing up, and my friend Bill is going to do something for me, but i need to buy new hubs.

should i get these:

these:

or these:

?