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Here's a low-res pic of the Ribble Winter SRAM Apex that arrived in the post this morning. I'll take some higher-res photos tomorrow morning (and fit the seatpost clamp.....) - £697 with ITM Aero 2.4s, not bad as a commuter / winter trainer

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-ribble-sportive-7005-12-46015

Apparently I've become a Ribble advocate, the only negative is the build-time is very long at the moment around 4 weeks

Cannondale CAAD 8 Tiagra
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/cannondale/caad8-6-tia-2012-compact-road-bike-ec031475

Supposedly the best aluminium frame on the market. My mate has the 105 version and it's far more lovely than the Allez Sport it replaced. See if you can find a way to get the 105 for under £1000 or the CAAD 10, my mate managed it with a cunning Evans 10% off voucher

Alternatively, check out Ribble.

I have a Ribble Winter SRAM Apex picked up for <£700 and I didn't even bother with CTW. Ribble can't be beat from a price value perspective, check out the special offers if you're not too bothered by the brand name

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/pu/road-track-bike/special-edition-bikes/specialedition/1

Rose Bikes (of Germany) is also worth a look, no CTW but prices low enough that it really doesn't matter
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/

Ok, it's the first sign of wet-weather in Sunny Brighton, and I need some MTFU tips.

Basically braking....

Brake-induced rear wheel skid - slightly sketch
Hipster skid - Seemingly less sketch
Brake-induced front wheel skid - I'm shitting myself.

So without wanting to face-plant the back of a No.25 bus, what's the most effective method of braking once you might as well be ice-skating?

There's a definite tight/loose spot - coincides with the cranks getting to the Horizontal position.

Parts wise, it's a 44t 3/32 Bontrager GXP with about 800 miles wear, paired with a Surley 17t 3/32 which has had about 100 miles.

It's a lemond fillmore, chainline wise - visually not an obvious problem, although I haven't measured it like this guy:
http://www.londonfgss.com/thread2592.html

Hey all, quick query.

Constantly faffing with my chain tension, yet I always run into the same problem:

As the chain just gets to the right amount of tension, it seems as if it binds slightly on the tight spot on the chainring. This produces a bit of noise / detectable vibration at slow speed.

Its irritating.....

I use a Surly Chain Tug - so getting the chain tension right is pretty easy - yet it still seems to vibrate!

Could it be because I'm running an "odd" rear sprocket (44x17)

Is this the price I have to pay for less tire replacements, or am I a nonce?

Cheers,

Whilst I'm sure it's only a matter of practice - clipless have an added "easy-bail" factor going for them.

I still remember first public attempt at trackstand, followed by comical fall whilst trying to escape straps - bought shoes and clipless that night.

Also, double sided cleats like Shimano (at the cheap end) or Crank Bros etc, are pretty much stamp and go, none of the "cunningly flip pedal whilst sliding foot forward" bs of straps

I run 44x17 - 68.3

Cheers Will,

I'm hoping the cabling will simply match up, Cable route-wise. If "inside" the bullhorn is simple enough then that's the way it'll go, if not route under the tape as I'm used to - depends on the levers as well.

Next question - taping the damn things.

Is it the same with drops, start at the end (using the lever as a bar plug) and finish at stem, or other way round?

Hey there, looking to swap out the drops of my Lemond Fillmore for Bullhorns, bit of a newbie, is this the right procedure?

1, Remove drops, and brake levers - preserving the brake cabling? (i.e unscrewing, dissembling the lever?
2, Get appropriate diameter bullhorn / chop and flip
3, Add either TT style brake levers, or stem mounted BMX styley
4, Retape

Anything I've missed?

I'm particularly interested in the brake cabling - is it easy to remove the cabling from the levers themselves, and what about lengths, any problems created by swapping from road drops to BMX brakes?

Tool wise :
Allen Keys
Set of Various Screw drivers
?

Cheers,

Had a bagaboo large with a custom colour job for around 6 months now,

Bit pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for

Ebay's absolutely full of the damn things, it's an infestation!

Saying that, I tried it with an expensive pair of "In-Ears" and the noise isolation was bloody scary!

I usually ride with "Cheap" headphones in and the volume low. Loud enough to drown out mundane traffic, quiet enough to hear buses and tw*ts revving to overtake ridiculously

I just heard this, and well.........

Bloody "Creative" marketing agencies

Sweet, so to clarify

SR 22 (1/8) = 1/8 + 3/32 (Kind of)

SR 21 (3/32) = 3/32 only

If the SR22 can cope with both, why the SR21?

Right, in my excitement to fit a different ratio, I bought this http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Shimano-Shimano-TL-SR22-Sprocket-Remover-Tool-18412.htm

When I really should have bought this:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Shimano-Shimano-TL-SR21-Sprocket-Remover-Tool-17689.htm

Though I didn't purchase it from SJS.

Basically, will using a 1/8 tool on 3/32 components knacker them / will it even work? (tool is in shiny shiny packaging)

Cheers

So, it's September and winter has arrived :-(

Any tips / kit? (tyres? brakes? mudguards?)

Truck tarp = Waterproof
Stitches = Difficult to waterproof (needs taping, which eventually peels off)

Less stitching = More waterproof

Cheers for the replies guys

Skeleton - Thank you for the rough estimate, I'll bear that in mind

Sharkstar - Thank you for the offer mate, but as I'm not london based (Portsmouth) and also I've discovered the front wheel needs re-truing, so from a time point of view, just gonna cough up at the LBS on Monday.

Also,

Are there any fixed riders in Portsmouth out there? (Hello?)

I spotted a plug once but it was SS, as was a home conversion.
I did see a Pompino once, but as it was being pushed rather than ridden, I think it was more of a fashion accessory than a bike.

Yeah, I realized / had previously realized that wet weather would be much better fixed.

I just hadn't got round to putting a sprocket on, oh well, serves me right.

Any idea how much the repair of a tektro (i.e replace) brake lever should cost?

Stock Lemond Fillmore:

Alloy dual pivot w/Tektro alloy levers

Bit of backstory:
I'm chilling out at about 15 mph on my SS, it is raining.

Cabbie in front decides to turn right,

• he brakes, I brake
  
• Rear wheel locks, bike slides to the left.
  
• Realizing impending stackage, Rookie releases rear brake
  
• Bike straightens up
  
• Front brake isn't enough to stop poor Fillmore
  
• Front brake lever takes impact into taxi,
  
  

Rookie gets road rash and an angry cabbie.
Anyway, the obvious damage is the front brake's lever has popped the plastic bit that holds the pin in. (basically the lever point)

Lessons / problems 1,

• I need to re-learn my stopping distances
  

• 2, I need a new brake handle

• 3, there might be further damage (buckled wheel, frame stress, stretched cabling?)

Luckily: Bike is 6 weeks old, therefore has a free service due (hurrah!) I have insurance (double hurrah!) So, as I need to get a new lever, and ideally would like a mechanic to check the rest of the bike over, the service seems a great idea. How much, presuming all that needs to be done is one new brake lever, should I expect to pay for one, the lever itself, and two, the installation?

Finally, would better tires have saved me? (Bontrager Select)

Kyrptonite New York Std (The new 3000) 1m of Kyrptoflex cable, and £31 a year E&L insurance!

Lemond Fillmore!

(no bias whatsoever of course)