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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1O7ZvDFP_8

try a shimano BB?

Thinking about it, but I've noticed that the BB cup is narrower on the Stronglight than on the Shimano. While it doesn't cause problems with the double spindle, I'm wondering if with a shorter spindle it might cause the cranks to rub or grind against the cups. I'm not using track cranks - just a pair of Campag Chorus on a single chainring.

And the Shimano ones come with plastic non-drive side cups, which isn't that important, but nice to have metal ones...

Hopefully photos show what I'm talking about - first one shows the band in between the threads - it ain't budging for nothing, and the second one shows the difference in the cup protruding from the shell.

I've had a pretty good week parts-wise - my 1980s single bolt Dura Ace stem arrived - which looks so good I did a bit of a sex-wee after I put the bar tape on. I finally got hold of some chainring bolts that fitted and didn't come loose after a few days because they were slightly too long, and I was looking forward to finally getting my chainline sorted out by buying a new bottom bracket to replace the road double one (too long) that I'd been using up until now.

It came in the posts today - Stronglight 68 shell with a 107 spindle. I excitedly smeared it in anti-seize and started screwing it into the frame - and then it stopped.

On my Mercian, there's a steel band in between the bottom bracket threads which, while I thought was a nice bit of attention to detail when I got the frame, is proving a pain in the arse now. Basically, while my previous Shimano BB had tapered ends to the threaded part, the Stronglight one is the same thickness all the way - so the threaded section is essentially too long to fit snugly - I have around 5mm left sticking out when it's screwed in as far as it can go.

The question is, can I do anything? I'm looking at it two ways:

1) Could someone let me know if there's any way of reducing the size of the thread? I notice there's an unthreaded section about 5mm long which, if removed, would probably be enough for the BB to fit, but don't know how or whether to do this.

2) Can anyone let me know whether there are any bottom brackets out there (no need to be track specific) with a shorter (or tapered) threaded section that's likely to fit this Mercian - and if so, where I can get one from? Not looking to spend a lot - the Stronglight was a tenner, so you can see where I'm coming from on this!

If 2) turns out to be the easier option, anyone want to buy a Stronglight 68x107mm BB? Cost £10 and is brand new...

Thanks!

How old is the Veloce front mech, and is it band-on or braze-on?

Erm, and how much does you want?

So thought I might bump this up again. Still looking for a 60-62cm frame after having abandoned my Peugeot conversion (stupid french using stupid non-standard bits) budget could stretch to a couple of hundred quid plus now. Anybody? Anything?

Now that I've got my Mercian, I do have a Raleigh in my shed gathering dust. It's a 60cm frame and is Reynolds 501. I hacksawed off the braze-ons and rattle-canned it white with a red headtube. It's pretty basic, but if you want to make an offer, feel free to PM me.

http://www.bikemagic.com/news/article/mps/uan/3914

So for all intents and purposes, it is a two-piece crank after all... Very interesting. Makes you wonder why they sell a Dura Ace BB separately with an axle. I suppose it's for retro-fitting to other cranks or something...

EDIT: Bugger - no they don't sell a separate BB with an axle. Wonder what happens if you bugger your axle though - new Dura Ace cranks sir?

New Dura-Ace group ;)

I don't want to drag things off topic, but can someone please tell me how you attach the drive side crank? It's obviously not a two-piece crank, and none of the pics I've seen suggest a hidden bolt setup - so how the fnark does it work?

Anyone know how to pronounce 'Veloce'? I have loads of parts in my shed and keep wondering if I sound like a prick when I say 'vey-lo-chay' to other cyclists.

Come to think of it, how do you pronounce 'Campagnolo'? I'm so used to saying 'campag' that I've never stopped to think if it was 'cam-pag-no-lo' or with a silent 'g', as in 'cam-pan-iolo'.

Same GrahaminLondon from ebay that sells dodgy frames? i think so

Dodgy frames? Do tell...

This thread brings back some memories...

I have a 2001 Eastern Tarzan in my shed, which has been sat there since moving away from Bristol, where I was riding at Skate and Ride one hell of a lot. Was lucky enough to ride with Simon Tabron on quite a regular basis.

The bike's for sale if anyone's interested - Primo cranks, Gussett wheels, Primo tyres, Demolition bars and pegs. If there are no takers I may well have to drag it out, pump up the tyres and see what I can still do. It's ironic really - I always used to read the letters in Ride and Dig from 20-somethings saying how they were getting back into the sport having taken off 5 years. Being the youth I was then I always swore blind I wouldn't be one of those people...

Very nice white Condor Pista being pushed out of Marylebone station this morning, around 9am, then a few seconds later a Bianchi Pista going up Melcombe Place towards Edgware Road - crumpler messenger bag, black skate/BMX style helmet.

I was on foot, but did the usual head-turning-stare-at-the-fixed thing...

jesus christ!

we have a new winner!

the angriest response yet. all hail furioustits and and his measured response of 'you complete cock smoker/fuckingdecon'.

I think somebody wants a cuddle...

yeah, but if you go in, it's frickin' busy and full of lamers looking for the wrong bottom bracket. you get caught out and all cross with the smarmy man.

Tell me about it - that's why I don't shop at Primera Sport for my geared stuff. Unless you walk in wearing a head to toe Assos gimp suit, they're not interested.

sorry - you don't give a shit if a shop's busy at the weekend and will go in anyway?

Nope - I'll probably end up buying whatever I need at Wiggle instead...

I just don't appreciate people using the whole weekend/busy thing as an excuse. To borrow a phrase - HTFU - it's the weekend - people are off work and will be coming by in their droves. Shops know this and they need to be prepared - if they want their business to survive.

But anyway, I'm digressing...

Just a bit of a tip for people wanting advice from bike shops.

DON"T GO IN AT THE WEEKEND.

It's the bussiest day in the retail week and quite often bike shops have to employ extra staff to serve the increase in numbers. Good/knowledgable staff are hard to find let alone keep.

To be blunt, I don't give a shit. Sounds harsh maybe, but any shop worth their salt will not only make sure they have enough staff to cover what will undoubtedly be busy periods, but if they want to maintain their reputation they'll make sure even the weekend staff are polite and knowledgeable.

Wishful thinking I know, but like a lot of people I work during the week, so unless I'm lucky enough to "work from home" for a day, I'm not going to have the luxury of popping by at a time when the shop's likely to be less busy.

No "Them".

That's the ticket - sort of explains why they can't make fixed geared bikes - no opposable thumbs.

Got two projects on the go at the moment - very old Mercian conversion, which will eventually become my main bike once I get hold of the 120mm wheels and a 27.0mm seatpost. Bit of an odd one really - no braze-ons or cable routing, but it's drilled for a rear brake. If the braze-ons have been removed (i.e. if there were any on there to begin with), it's been done very well, and resprayed by Mercian in the meantime. It'll never run as a geared again that's for sure. I'll post photos later - I'd appreciate it if anyone can tell me whether I should get it resprayed or just leave it as is.

My other project is my geared bike - a late model Holdsworth professional. Going to have the downtube shifter bosses removed, get ergo guides added and have it sprayed up in gunmetal grey with ivory lugwork and *maybe *an ivory headtube if my budget can stretch to it. Got a shed full of Campag Veloce and Chorus stuff, along with a set of Khamsin wheels. Going to be odd riding a freewheel again - why can't they make a fixed geared bike?

hhsb and trick rider 42-18 ,42-19
winter gear keep legs warm.44-17
summer gear 46-17. good nice gear
ally cats..44-16
track gear 46-14
race gear 50-16, 50 -15
hope this helps..m

I'd definitely recommend a selection of gears for different conditions. Especially handy if you ride double-fixed. You can get used to different ratios but also have something to fall back on if you've got a really long ride and you need comfortable gears, or you're messing around and need a shorter gearing.

I find 44-16 works well for everything. Good from a standing start, you can spin out on the flats but it's not so big you can't slow down with leg braking (although I also run a front brake for emergencies), and I can skid stop when I want to.

The 'when I want to' bit is important - when you run a lower ratio it's important to be under control when you brake. I've tried lower ratios where the moment I've started leg braking, I've lost traction in the rear end - which can be very disconcerting.

Been doing a little research and have found this shot on the BLB website. I was a little nervous when I picked up my one that it might not have been legit, but it's good to see another one almost exactly the same (although without the pink sprayjob).

Bit of a shoddy job though - the frame's perfect for enslaving (which I'm now realising to my cost) and they really haven't made the most of it...

this is london mate, you got the best film labs here, plus, shooting 36 exposure allowed you to slow down and have a higher chance of a 'good photo' than shooting 100 of the same shot hoping for the best.

the fact that it cost a bit allowed you to actually concentrate properly, stop shooting like an American kids with an AK-47 at school, just keep it steady, shoot something you really think look great than randomly shoot summat for the hell of it.

a couple or so weeks, you'd notice a difference.

plus, I can't afford a digital camera, I can easily afford an Olympus Epic 35 (£5 in portobello), excellent camera that doesn't even need battery and it's auto-exposure, and then a couple of weeks learning to shoot with film, you'd end up getting a better eyes for shooting than paying £200-300 for a digital camera.

I'd agree with that - currently getting a lot more paid work, but my strike rate's much lower than it was when I was shooting film only. I've become lazy in so many ways - I shoot more on digital because I can't be bothered to get out the changing bag, the developing tank and the scanner, and my shots aren't as polished because I rely on PS too much and don't actually spend the time setting up the shot in the first place.

Dagnammit...

full bike at 107

Brooks saddle on that is worth at least that.
Edit: and look at that chainring! gorgeous and one for all you pagans:

Shit the bed! From £110 to £680 in the space of a day. Somebody really wanted that bike...

Feck bugger arse! My Mercian came in the post today and it has 120mm spacing. My current wheel is set to 135mm. I might be able to respace it, but I wouldn't know where to start...

Random question considering this has been up for a month - is this still available?

but he is also one of the biggest dicks in the UK!

It always annoys me how he puts the reserve price in his auction listings - normally something along the lines of "a very reasonable £3,000,000". It just seems arrogant to me - they're old bike frames - why not just list them and take your chances?

Buy direct - that's what I did.

Arrived within 5 days, didn't get stung for tax, and with the dollar the way it is, it was a steal.