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It is a something?? traveller. The chrome is ok on the wheels but the chainring needs some attention.
The gears and brakes work. Well the brakes as well as can be expected on steel rims.
I am on the IOW at the moment, not dressed as a pirate and will be home on Tuesday. I can let you know the make then, I think it may be Apollo!!
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Usual sizes are 1/4" ,3/16" and 5/32"(4mm).Very occasionally 5mm. You are best to measure one. Ebay is a good source for small quantities c 100.
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There are many versions of the "Raleigh Record" and they are quite variable in specification.
I have had a straight Raleigh Record as fixed gear and a Raleigh Record Sprint as a geared bike.
The Raleigh Record is pretty bomb proof although not the lightest bike, it is pleasant to ride.
The sprint version is in my opinion a relaxing bike to ride although if you are a very strong sprinter you may find the frame a little too flexible around the bottom bracket. This does not come into the equation for me. -
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For information, the correct term is "turning" if you need to ask a machining firm to do it. Metal spinning is a process for forming thin sheet metal.
The threads being left and right handed will present a problem for the threads to be formed using readily available dies to most engineering companies. This would probably mean the threads would be cut using a thread cutting tool on a lathe, a time consuming process.
Will you provide the engineering drawings with machining dimensions, tolerances and surface finish requirements?
There are many grades of stainless steel for this application something like 304 or 316 is fairly easy to machine.
It will be stupidly expensive for a production run of a set of axles. -
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As subject line, pedals in fair condition but do run smoothly, cleats in fair condition and shoes in good condition.
The shoes are size 9 and are a true size 9 as opposed to shimano shoes that tend to be on the small size.
£25 collected from Hersham or will post at cost.
More photos here http://www.flickr.com/photos/24289857@N05/
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If and this is a big if, the rest of the threads are fairly undamaged. You can as a bit of a bodge use an old pedal thread to re-cut the thread in the arm. Cut a couple of slots down the length of the old pedal thread first. This gives the metal that is going to be cut from the arm somewhere to go and creates cutting edges. Screw the pedal in a couple of threads and then remove it to clear the swarf. Progressively screw the pedal further in until it bottoms.
May be worth a try.