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1 1/8" Carbon Tifosi Track Fork

Bought it on the forum a couple of years ago, used it for a week, and it's been sitting in my room ever since. 225mm steerer tube, 30mm rake, 700c. Barely used! Fork legs are unmarked. Only signs of use are:

a) star nut indentation from mounting of a brake, and

b) a couple of small scuffs to the paint where I had the headset crown removed.

Happy to meet anywhere round East London, or courier if needed. £60

Anyone want a 1 1/8" Carbon Tifosi Track Fork?

Bought it on the forum a couple of years ago, used it for a week, and it's been sitting in my room ever since. 225mm steerer tube, 30mm rake, 700c. Barely used! Arms are unmarked. Only signs of use are (a) star nut indentation from mounting of a brake, and (b) a couple of small scuffs to the paint where I had the headset crown removed.

Happy to meet anywhere round East London, or courier if needed. £65 ono

Ok the lookout for a compact Shimano octalink crankset. Either 5500 105, 6500 Ultegra or 7700 DA.

Can anyone help? Thanks.

Long shot, but am wondering whether anyone has a spare entry for the event this weekend ...? Obviously happy to pay the cost of entry etc.

Please PM me if you do! Thanks, Booter

Hey there, are you able to send me pics of the cones?

simonboot at gmail dot com

Thanks, Simon

There are road seals to put on them to help keep the bearings nicely protected, worth making sure they have them fitted, or that you can obtain some.

Anyone know where these seals can be purchased independently of the hubs?

Yeah, it was. So I cancelled the auction and sold it to Pepperoni.

:p

Pepperoni - Ill measure it when I get home and post measurements here.

Btr

Ok, was contacted by a few people, so it was easiest just to bung it on ebay.

cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160303927110

£0.99. Av it.

I've got a Charge Plug frameset to offload. Size M. Frame, fork, headset, BB includded.

Bought it for a project that never got off the ground. Normal chips and scratches you find on a used frame - plus some cable rub front and rear. PM me and I can email you more pics.

Anyone wanna give this a better home than I can?

Anyone on the lookout for a 14t 1/8" dura ace track cog?

As new - mounted once, never ridden (was on a new wheel I bought and I wanted a larger cog).

I'm not gonna use it - open to offers. PM me if you keen ...

btr

Sorted. 3/32 it is then.

Thanks.

I'm sure people have views on this, for which I'd be grateful.

I've been getting around on a 42 x 16 fixed road conversion with an old 3/32 chain. The chainring (130 BCD) and chain are both original and just about fked and are about to be replaced. The Miche sprocket is new.

Question - is there any benefit (stronger? smoother?) to running a 1/8 chainring and chain?

Or am I thinking about this too much?

Hey there

I'm currently using an old shimano 42t chainring (from a double), but its quite worn so I'm looking to replace it with something new.

Does anyone have a new(ish) 42t or 44t 130BCD chainring (preferably track) they are looking to offload?

Or can you recommend somewhere good to buy one?

Thanks.

Thanks for the replies fellas. I've come home and fiddled a bit more and I dont think the problem was as bad as first thought. I busted out the tape measure and the figures dont lie. Chainline appears to be approx 41mm front and back.

Think the problem was (a) my chain was a bit tight, (b) i squeezed the frame down a bit assymetrically and (c) my eyes.

Hopefully a chain clean/lube should take care of the remainder of the noise.

Thanks, Simon

Hey guys

I've been puzzling over this and I need some advice. I did a fixed conversion on an old Brian Rourke racer (circa some time round 1990 I guess, with 126mm rear spacing). I'm running a 16t cog on a 120mm dura ace hub with a 42t chain ring. The chain ring is mounted on the inside of the spindle.

The problem is that the chainline clearly isnt straight - the chain ring sits further from the centre of the frame than the cog. Its gotta be 5mm or even more. The problem is that the teeth of the chain ring are only a couple of mm from the chainstay - so it doesnt seem as if moving the chain ring in is an option ... which I guess means that, in order to get a straight chainline, the rear cog has gotta move out?

My question is then - what options do I have to achieve that?

Do I have to have the rear wheel redished (I'd prefer not to have to do that)? Or are there other options I'm not considering?

Would I be better off with a 126mm hub (I saw that Phil Wood makes one)?

Any advice greatfully received.

Thanks, Simon

http://www.derbyking.com/Detail/?n=39