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It's free, a lots of mechanics tend to use Halford Advanced over big brand such as Snap-on, while they're not the ulimate tools to use, it easy to replace with no question asked.

I've replaced my bit dozens of time in the last 4 years without spending any money.

.

Fuck that, go Halford Advanced, they do lifetime warranty, so when I broke a bit, I send the whole thing back and get a new one.

Every time.

So happy I sold that to you! It was just way too big to even wear for me

I need to build one, currently commuting on a carbon track with zero mudguard mount let alone space for it is taking it's toll.

Also, RIP Surly Steamroller.

Hi.....I recently became a Surly Ogre owner. Planning a ride next year to Turkey (maybe beyond) and I've decided this is the bike to do it on but there's a few things I want to change.

New wheelset with dynamo.

Halo have a front MTB dynamo wheels that you can buy, dynamo aren't necessary, think about how often you ride at night, if you're charging stuff, maybe a massive powerbank or two may suffice.

Lights

See above, if battery, a small rear flashing and a good high beam front one, I also recommend a head torch.

Currently running 1x11. Would prefer a 3x7/8/9.

I recommend a simple 36/22t chainset paired with a 11-36t cassette, that give you a lower gear than a 32t with a 50t sprocket (only a little), but the 1x11 is not uncommon for touring, the rear cassette look quite small.

9 or 10 speed is the best option overall, as wider cassette are avaliable on that, or even go 11-40t with a double for a super low low gear ratio.

NOTE: This is where you can save a lots of money by sticking to the 1x set-up by changing the cassette and a smaller chainring (if this is not 30t already), 11 speed is fine for touring.

Swap hydraulic brakes for cable. Looked at BB7s and Spykes?

Keep hydraulic, they're not really a problem, or go for BB5s, never Spykes.

New racks (rear isn't mine and I'm not keen on the width of the front one). Looked Blackburn Outpost front?

Any rack will be fine, best is Tubus, however the Tortec Expedition is a decent one that have a good range of mount.

Look into cages to fit on the fork, they're the lightest and easiest solution to carry stuff without the heavy rack.

Budget of about £1200 and another £100 for bits I've forgotten, new grips etc

£1200 is a lots of money, the drivetrain will eat up a lots of that, and so will the dynamo, it's best use to get quality luggages (bikepacking and/or panniers), as well as decent saddle, bike fit (if needed) and comfortable cockpit being keys, the wheels look pretty good along with the tyres.

Any advice much appreciated.

Have a read on this article on the Bridge Club, it's almost completely stock and was used for proper touring, it's not an Orge but the principle stand on running a 1x, hydraulic and what have you.

https://theradavist.com/surly-bridge-club-review/

My condolences for having cantis

I concur, not that light, but pretty darn reliable.

Anyone know of a T47 BB bike that is also an All Road..

Sonder Camino Ti use outboard T47 (shell is 68mm)

@HoKe at 4 Borough this morning, was great to finally meet you!

ah, only 38mm clearance.

Old vintage from ‘10 accept smaller than this.

I love the second hand so much, it’s so subtle without a window.

Somehow I feel like I can’t get any better than this, then again everything is much more expensive and my wages now feel like being back in my early 20’s again.

Most comfortable watch ever in my life.

55mm work best on mine.

Yeah that's like over 1.5kg worth of rack before you even add the bag, it massively affect it making it horrible to ride with a drop handlebar.

I managed to lighten mine with a Tumbleweed T Rack and WALD basket (1kg combine), but can be made lighter with a Nitto front rack by 100g.

I'll admit that also have me stumped, only way I can diagnosed is to have the bike with me.

I may have an italian GXP at work, so I'll find it and measure it so you can compare it.

The other quick solution is to try an Italian Shimano hollowtech bottom bracket plus adapter on the NDS to run the GXP spindle.

Apologises! I misread your original message, I thought you're saying Alb Steward was the new geometry, not the previous generation one!

Can you check if there's a spacer on the DS spindle? (between the wavy washer and the crank).

The other thing I would do is face the shell, as it look like it got paint on it, it won't make that much of a difference but worth doing anyway.

Your other option is running a Shimano hollowtech bottom bracket with an adapter to convert NDS to 22mm.

That the thing, the previous generation have a decent R+S progression that I managed to fit a lots of people who’s under 5’2 with a short stem (60mm), now it’s a good 20mm longer making it harder to fit them.

The only other bike that I can fit shorter people on is the Specialized Diverge whose reach is a mimiscal 355mm.

33mm is the classic field watch sizes back then, so it was meant to disappear on the wrist, not stick out like a sore thumb

E.g. this 1980’s version is also 33mm

Don’t know how I feel about that, felt a little too clean, 33mm is a bonus tho.

Fun fact; there are so many different species of nettles, some are mild, some linger on for weeks.

Frensham!

Cover your head tube! Bag will wear it out