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Sorry to add yet another topic on this one, but I cant find the answer to this one anywhere. I've split the chain at what seemed like the right length, refitted it, and it looks reasonable, but when I pull the wheel as far back in the drop outs as poss the chain doesn't become so tight that it binds (I read in Sheldon that to be sure to get the right tension it's best to get it too tight, then loosen off slightly). I could take another link of the chain out, but I don't want it to be too short because putting links back in is tricky I seem to remember. Could I get away with taking another link out, or should I keep it as it is?

thanks, I'm going for a budget conversion but suppose its worth getting quality bearings if they last.

cool, this doesnt sound too difficult. thanks for the excellent answer. Ill post a pic when Ive put it all back together

Last thing I need to do with my conversion is change the bearings in the front hub. Its an Ambrosio Evolution and the hub is Ambrosio as well I think. Ive done the old lock nut and loose bearings type hubs before, but this has cartridge bearings so I havent a clue how to replace them. Just wondering what the people on here do when their hubs are gone.

Just wondering if anyone can help me with a headset query. I'm putting together a fixed wheel conversion and the headset that came witht he bike has a Tange Levin 1" headset like the one here:

http://www.velo-orange.com/talealhe.html

UNfortunately, the bottom cup is too loose and comes out when the fork is removed (also the fork crown race is loose too). The top cup is fine, strangely (maybe some sort of crash cause it?). I've read on here that not all 1" headsets are exactly the same width so my question is does anyone know what headset would be slightly wider than the Tange Levin? Shimano/Campag etc? I had a look on Sheldon but his site gives loads of info and finding the answer was a bit difficult.

just a quick comment to say when i was at school i used to get the bus home and a friend of mine used to ride his bike, drafting behind with hardly any distance between him and the bus. one day the bus slammed on the brakes suddenly and he went straight into the back, then landed face first on the road. looked worse than it was, but could have been nasty. so i'd never draft a bus driver personally.

andyp, I might be interested in your 1A if it's no longer than 120mm c-c. Is it a level stem or does it face down?

thanks, sjs could be the way to go. I'll give them a call. I think I only need a rear as the front might just need new bearings, and it's a reasonably good condition Ambrosio.

Cheers, so I'm just looking now for a 120mm rear track wheel for clincher tires. I don't imagine they make them with flip flop hubs though.

sounds drastic, plus I think the frame's been bashed around a bit, don't want to weaken it too much. I'll try the track wheel route, if it's not too expensive and I can get the chain alignment right.

I've been checking out the bikes on here for a while but decided to post a question about rear wheels. I am converting a road bike with a 126mm drop outs. What are the rear wheel options - are there any off the peg wheels I could get at a reasonable price or do I have to build one because it's a road bike?