Search results for:

and the mixed set up is just confused?

sheldon is the don. i'm sure the QR thing works if you need it to. his gain ratio is by far the best way to calculate the gearing to use, brilliant that he coded a calculator into his site that includes tire dimensions. really sad that his illness has stopped him riding.

as a matter of interest what 3/32 do you use?
i only have room for 1 bike so it has to do a lot of different things which means changing the gearing and therefore sometimes the chain length, i don't think hyper glide is too good for that (my next fixed is going to have really long track ends).

thanks for the miche link (the miche site gives no indication that they do different widths).

btw burrows did a prototype of his 'lotus bike' with a 1/4" pitch, don't remember the width.

dear old sheldon also suggests filling down hollow axles and using a QR skewer as a kludge for chain tension with vertical dropouts (mmm, think i save that 1 for the emergency).
to be fair, i ran 3/32 for years with out much problem (2 chain launches in 18 years, but i don't think chain width had anything to do with that).
for me it's about using miche sprockets which are good quality, easy to change and cheap and i don't think they come in the 3/32 flavour.
obviously if you run a 1/8 cog you've got to run the chain as well.
the thing about the bushes in the chain is that modern multispeed chains are i think bushingless so they can make them thinner and easier to construct, i admit this is hearsay as i've not dismantled a chain this much and of course you are right that there should be very little perceptible difference between the 2.
the other thing for me is, despite not having legs like chris hoy, i use the chain as my primary brake (and i'm not that bothered about weight) so the added width goes well with my fat head ( @,@ ) .

both?
1/8 cog (i like miche cause there easy to change)
1/8 chain (never going to break and better bushes)
3/32 chain ring (cause there cheaper)

if you've got a chainset with 144pcd it may be hard to get 3/32 rings.

result!
much respect and gratitude to you sir.

mmm, looking at online tutorial about this. any more advice before i screw up my mac (other than buying a puk).

for some that's even a turn on. but for others it may be a reminder of a terrible loss.

zip ties wont make rusty marks on you paint work, trim with nail clippers so they're not snaggy.

buy a pair of these:
http://www.canecreek.com/ergo-stoker-levers.html
and a the matching levers and make friends with some1 who wants the same set up to share the spares.

the other advantage of a cross lever is that it very versatile (unlike the bmx and tt options) you can put it near the middle of any normal bar and on the end or behind the grip of most bull horns. they are also very light and have a much smaller clamp than the the goldfinger for example which means more room for your hands on the bars. they do pull a lot of cable because they are designed for v brakes, some people think this is not good (the people who make the overpriced paul lever) but this means if your calipers doesn't have a quick release you can still get you wheel out easily.

i changed the block pop-up options and guess what...
... i got a porno pop-up but no lfgss.

what preferences would would be re routing/blocking this site?

i use FF anyway, but have tried safari and camino with same results. loooking at the preferences now.

in the bog?

you can can get ghost hoods from tandem specialists if you want to run 1 hooded lever, the advantage being is you gain another position on the drops.

i run a single cross lever, with the smallest possible clamp so i can ride hands in the middle comfortably, and very grippy (1.5gbp bricky) gloves and yoshida grips and in the hood position so i can ride there too. i only need the brake for fast stops (in traffic) so the middle is good for me, and the chain covers slow downs on less busy roads when i'm on the hooks.

btw. nitto noodles are the best since la84s

i know it's on the terrestrial but i might go down charlies to watch the game and drink beer.

2 macs, same os (10.4.9 but different serials), same router (tried it without router), 1 loads forum pages (12"pb), 1 doesn't (15"pb).

what do i need to do to make the 15"pb work.

stronger laws against bad motoring and more disincentives to even get into a car will make the roads we do have easier for everyone to cycle on. there is no way that every possible route destination can have a greenway alternative for cyclists to use so there will always be a reason for the less inclined to opt for the less sustainable alternatives when they actually need to go somewhere. these cycle routes are about leisure cycling not the everyday A to Bs of commuting etc. sooner or later a cyclists is going to have to negotiate heavy traffic if they want to go A to B as part of a commute and that is where the focus should be. getting us out of the way of petrol heads wont solve the real problem which is cars not bikes. 50m on greenways but i'll still have a hassle finding somewhere to park my bike in town. better to change some laws, put money into training more cyclists to use existing roads and clamp down on the numpties who put signs up stopping us from locking bikes but don't mind breathing poisons that also discolours their fancy architecture and streets chocked with large metal boxes.

TAYYABS on fieldgate (i listed it in the restaurants section) if you eat meat and spices (they vegetarian as well), but you'll have to cue for 15' if go after 7 (even on a monday) because it is so good, take a friend if you want the lamb chops for starter (highly recommend).

if you in the center of town there is a great value vegetarian canteen at the mary ward center:
The Mary Ward Adult Education Centre is housed right in the centre of London, in WC1, in two inter-connecting Georgian family houses, no's. 42 and 43 Queen Square.

very on the down low (no signage) and limited choice but very good quality, eat in or take out, open til 2100 week days i think. mainly mature students. easily worth a detour if you're in the west end.

yes and no.
i have egg beaters and really like them, they are small and have lots of float (good if you're worried about you knees). the caveat is about this pedal system is that if you intend to walk around a lot on hard ground with your cycling shoes you may find the cleats wear out very quickly (less than 3 months in 1 case for me). the basic cleats are about 12gbp, a slightly harder wearing pair about 18gbp. the problem is 2 fold because;
1 the cleats are quite soft as they are brass or brass allow.
2 they are deeper/thicker than spd cleats and depending what (most) shoes you use you'll find that they are scraping the floor when you walk on them.

since the excessive wear resulted in me 'pulling-out' at a set of lights and hitting the floor hard i have got into measuring the depth of the recess in cycling shoes when i buy them.
the cleats are almost 8mm deep and unfortunately that rules out most specialized commuter shoes. however nike and scott are quite deep, so were my carnacs before they wore down. ymmv
i am in fact considering going back to single sided spds for this very reason as i never had a problem getting my foot in and the shimano 520s are very cheap (2x crankbrother cleats).

specialized, shimano and northwave all make winter shoes but i'm not sure which ones to go for, if at all.
usually in winter i use gortex socks with my normal cycle shoes (couple pairs of specialized and a pair of carnac's), but on longer rides the added thickness makes my toes go numb and they are not that waterproof - so i'm hoping that what ever i go for is better than that. so any way are there any recommendations out there?

dr.

frame and forks look like it was built for 27" wheels which are even bigger than 700c and therefore even more overlap. if it was a really tight frame anything bigger than 25mm tires would rub the seat tube and down tube, which yours don't. all this makes me think that your forks and or your down tube maybe bent backwards a little.
other than the overlap how responsive does it feel in corners?
whenever i look at a second hand bike i check the paintwork on the down tube just behind the lower headset cup for cracked or rippled paint. you wont have this if it's been resprayed but if you look very closely you may notice some distortion in the tubing or the lug.

hope it's none of the things i've mentioned and it's just a little overlap that you'll get used to the more you ride.
i have overlap on my bike and run mudguards all the same. personally don't know why anyone bothers with straps and clips (partly for the overlap reason). i noticed at herne hill this summer that the guys running straps have a cleat system that dispenses with toe clips, if nothing else, it means they don't scratch their fancy shoes.

dr.

currently
freelance location sound recordist (TV and film),
occasional dv director,
cycle trainer.

ex:
photographer
courier
bike mechanic
bar staff
art student

wish i had a photo to explain the name. but nothing as good as some inspiration from a cult cartoon series i never saw.

ooops i'm late for date with myself.

just added my favorite restaurant to the list and i going there in an hour, on my own :-( cos my missus is away, the internet has made my eyes go square and my belly is empty.

don't mind talking bikey shitey while i eat lamb chops if anyone is interested.

dr.oblong

i bought a digi-compact this summer after checking dpreview. the only compact they had in the "highly recommend' category at the time was the...
fuji finepix f31fd (c.135gbp august)
as i was in a rush i went to jessops (who are crap) to buy it. oh shit, they not only had this camera but also the updated version (f40 i think). so i took some photos on both and without doubt the f31 was way better (despite less pixels).
the camera is excellent for the simple reason that if you take pics in anything other than good daylight (i know you are going on a skiing trip but you may want to use it elsewhere after) you can change iso upto 1600 without the excessive noise you will get on cameras that are much more expensive (ie, ricoh, leica, panasonic etc). and at 400 iso the photos rock. check dpreview for anything you are considering as they are very comprehensive in their testing. they've added the canon g9 to the H.R. list but it is a bigger more expensive camera.

i checked the other day and the f31 is available now for just over 100gbp and is "the nearest thing to a modern classic that a digital compact is going to be". which is cool, because it looks crap.
if you really want the worry and the attention that a dslr will give you then the starter options are the canon 400d(?) or the nikon d40x. i've still got my fe2 and fm with ai lenses so not felt the need myself.

all the best.

dr.