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Yep, the powder is electrostatically charged and the thing your coating earthed, so the powder sticks to the metal due to static, if your subject you are powdercoating will not conduct then the powder will not stick. then you bake it at 200deg for 20 mins to melt/bake/bond the powder to the metal

Personally I'd go with signwriters paint (google hotrod pinstriping supplies for a supplier)
for lug lining over powder coat, it should stick well enough and as said above its not a high wear area, if you cock it up then use nitromorse to remove the paint and start again, it wornt touch the powder coat.

Maybe worth a look:

http://www.innate.com/Paint/Chrome/chromepaints.htm

just a thought, if your getting a 44m chain line with a 102bb are you planning on changing cranks to get down to 42mm?

I seem to remember when crimping the stay on mine, I put the stay in a vice with a bit of very soft wood behind it to prevent crushing as best I could, then I think I used a little nail puller crow bar, put the flat tip where I wanted the crimp section extending (mine was already crimp/dented I was just lengthening it) and wound the vice up gradually tighter and I think I had to wiggle the frame a bit as I went until the crimp/dent was long enough.

does the chainstay already have a dent for clearance? if so you can make it bigger (did that on my MTB conversion) if not you can make a dent for more clearance, or go for a wider rear hub, the londonfixiebike shimano bolt on jobbies give a dishless wheel with 46mm chainline using a 10mm spacer each side.

Who got the chrome off?

A friend of mine who does a bit of powder coating knows a local back street mechanic with a grit blasting setup, took a load if bits to him (2 engine heads that bike frame and a wrought iron gate) and he charged us £30 to blast them all clean. the surface was a bit rough afterwards (and its quite a thick walled trials frame) but the powdercoat smoothed it out a treat.

blast (your powdercoater will be able to do this) all the chrome off if you want the best finish, as (good) powdercoat is nigh on impossible to strip. I would get it prepped properly and strip all the chrome off first. The only chrome frame I have had done, this is how we did it and IMHO it turned out nice.

I'm getting the raleigh tank back on the road, I've done all the frame repairs/alterations:

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread4000.html

Just needs a coat of black paint, I have a rear wheel built, black rigida SX100 on black formula hub, black ACI spokes (seeing a trend here) and gold spoke nipples, just needs truing and the front building. bars will be nitto 123s covered in black leather full length and the saddle will be a brooks.

If you fancy shining up a set of rims maybe a variation on this method would work...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3680224

most quill to Ahead adapter stumpy thinks have a 1" quill section with a seperate shim to take it up to 1 1/8", you could buy one and use that shim.

Doh, Mr hole in the wall says not this month, you have to wait until payday :(

Hmmmmm, I'll get back to you later today, is that posted for £80?

i don't know how many mothers with push-chairs, tots, etc, that i've nearly hit as they can't be arsed to used the crossing 15 meters away so they nip between slow traffic/stand in the middle of the road/come our of no-where on the right.... they wear me down. jeebus.

Do you also notice mothers using the pushchair with child as a bulldozer type device through pedestrians, then they come to the edge of the road, THEY stand on the kerb and push the pushchair out into the road THEN look to see what the traffic is doing....

or is it just me that attracts such idiots.

you can push it through, it will only go down the tube but IMHO go to your LBS and get a new star nut, they should be pennies.

formula hub and a stack of M10 stainless washers will give you endless possibilites from 120-130.

Primo do a ChroMoly BMX micro adjust seatpost in 22.2mm (called 'the rod') for about £14 if anyone is looking.

me too, I went from 16 and a half stones to just 12 stones in half a year due to riding fixie.

If I can get down to 16st this year I'll be happy...

maybe I need to stop riding fixie to the pie shop????

Wanted a pair of 42mm chainline track cranks, I'd prefer black and 165mm but I'd consider 170s and any colour if the price was right. 5X130 rings would be a bonus as I have some spares. Something like a stronglight would be fine if it was cheap enough or even a tatty sugino 75 if its in budget. trying to keep it below £60. as any more than that and I'll just get a pair of stronglights from hubjub.

Quite neat that. I wonderd if something similar could be done with the 100mm londonfixiebike hubs to give a near eccentric rear hub.

I was originally sizing up something like this using a strip of the surface mount red LEDS down the back of the seat post, probably in a machined groove (short seatpost on a roadbike should stand it)
and a voltage red and rechargeable battery in the seatpost tube. The EL sheet
is a little cooler though,

Do you think you could get the inverter narrow enough to slide down the seatpost ?
I reckon I can, but like I say I would just be taking apart an inverter and reassembling it with a bit of chopping and soldering.

Yes I do, I reckon you could get the lot inside the seatpost with a bit of though, then just pull the seat post out and plug a charger into the base of it to recharge the battery!

Yep I meant Li-Ion not polymer. something like a pair of 18650 cells would give 7.2V and plenty of capacity to power a small sheet for ages for about 90g, you just need an invertor to run off that voltage, or one to run of 3.6v and you could get the whole setup for under 100g and not have to worry about balancing cells for recharging.

Pm me with what you want and we can discuss. I'm thinking a red strip up the seat tube for a rear light, build my own invertor to run off a LiPo rechargeable battery which could drop in the seat tube and weigh considerably less than what you have, or a none contact dynamo type system driven off the rear wheel (intensity will vary with speed quite a bit though).

Rapid are selling the surelight stuff now and we get good discount at work. Hmmmmm, no red sheet which is a shame.

I have forgotten I'm riding fixed a few times and tried to freewheel, there is no horrific injury, I just got thrown around in the saddle a bit and 'reminded' what bike I'm on. You think 'Oh shit' and get back on with pedaling. it takes a bit of getting used to but IMHO is worth it, have another go and remember you are learning to ride again, you cannot go into it at the same speed as you are riding SS.

EDIT: yes bad weather when the roads are a bit greasy fixed really works well.

Look at Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries, they are not small but they are very light which will be your main concern. The invertor can be made so it doesn't whine. do you have a link to the EL sheet you used and the specs for powering it?