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nice to see he left the clips and straps as std, do you think they may have been his inspiration for the massacre????

cable ties or electrical tape? good temporary solutions IMHO.

bit of surface rust, its only 501 steel and has been through a winter!! I'm going to tidy up the joins with a bit of braze and file, then clean the frame and powdercoat it black (maybe with prismatic flake like my monty frame:
if I'm feeling tarty!

RPM: I'm going for the minimalist look, I reckon I can remove about 33 spokes to give me a proper trispoke wheel next ;)

finished pics, this is what they look like, brazed in, squirted with white hammerite smooth, then chipped to fuck!!!

I'm sure hammerite used to stick better than this!!!

Electra 'townie 8' shopper frame, aluminium, bouncy RST fork and you don't get the seat or post. nothing wrong with it but I'm not going to use it. Free to good home if you collect from Guildford.

4130 steel monty trials bike, this is the rolling frame, I will have it built up shortly, realistically the novelty will wear off after about 2 big falls so I'll put it up here now. the powder coat is black with a prismatic flake, when the light catches it, it does look rather cool. £Offers or swap for 61-63cm steel track frame.

Specialised rockhopper 23" mtb, mavic EN321 rims on shimano XT hubs, road cassette and rigid forks otherwise standard. tidy condition. £350 as is or £300+ cost of bouncy fork if you want the forks changing.

do you work in a school?

Also its possible its not the original paint job and you can still get Reynolds Stickers covering all the older styles. Hence dating frames by Reynolds stickers is void.

You really need a geek to decipher the frame number.

I work in a university, electronics lab supervisor.

I'm on a fixed gear forum, I though this would be a good place to find a suitable geek ;)

with age comes great wisdom

and great experience in bullshitting ;) see 3rd reply!

yeah 27.2 seat post, I wondered if the 531 stickers would help date it cos IIRC there have been a few designs.

I didn't expect it to be that old, I'm just wondering how old.

piccies attached, if you anything specific to help age it, let me know!!!

thanks,

I may be interested in the Miche cranks.

I have a pair of shimano octalink cranks off a Specialized rockhopper, just got a 44t chainring with them. I also have a pair of truvative cheap downhill cranks, they need a howitzer bottom bracket though (like isis but bigger), quite knocked about but very solid.

I would use the miches to replace my sugino messengers (165mm) so they could be up for grabs too, good condition and with a longer BB should line up to 47.5 or 50mm chainline easily.

I'll put some piccies up this weekend.

WOW!!! how did you find that out, cos I've spent ages googling for info and found nothing.

its also quite a bit older than I expected if that is the case.

I've been curious how old my Harry Hall frame is since getting it, Harry Hall cycles have no idea how to date it, so is there any way I can work out a rough date from the style, lugs, tubeset used etc?

Its reynolds 531c tubing and I cannot see any markings on the lugs or dropouts. HH have stamped 'ST 158' on the underside of the bottom bracket.

is there any way to get an idea of its age?

I have been measuring up 20mm bolt through front hubs, looking at something in the style of the shimano front hub/bolt on sprocket thing that londonfixiebike do, but with a 110mm wide 20mm bolt through axle. now I have the sliding/ removable dropouts on my MTB silly thinks like that can be tried out :)

I'll definitely give that a go before anything else, cheers mate. I guess even 3 or 4 mm of spacers would make things easier too.

M10 stainless washers are a good bet for this, you will need cone spanners to fit them but its easy enough.

Meh, not what I was hoping to hear, but probably what I expected.

So a 'good' set of cranks that will run nice and true would be???

sugino 75s
Dura-ace

what else should I be looking at?

Its not THAT bad, it varies from good tension to beginning to bind, so setting it up to be reasonable tension leaves it a little slack in the worst position. the ring is new but all rings have done this, I did have the ring on the inside which improved chainline but going from 44t to 50t mean it then caught on the chainstay in one position. moving it round on the BB helped a little, moving the ring on the crank didn't do much.

It is OK, I guess I'm aiming for perfection :)

I did try moving the chainring round but it didn't make much difference tbh.

I've been having a bit of grief with chain tension, I have come to the conclusion my Sugino cranks do not seem to be completely round. I'm running RD messengers with a TA 50t chainring, I have used both a shimano and the Sugino 103mm (actually RPM 7420 if you peel the sticker off) bottom brackets. I did have a loose crank bolt which lead to creaking at one point but was tightened up again pretty soon. Could I have warped the square taper in the crank? I am a heavy fecker (down to about 19stone now ;) ) I've also slid sideways down the road more than once so could have possibly bent the BB (although unlikely as both BBs have wandering chain tension):

could I have warped the square taper

Am I just expecting too much from a pair of cheap cranks?

Well I've got it fitted now and first impression would be somewhere between my surley and EAI, its not as nicely finished as the EAI but is almost half the cost, I do think its a nicer made sprocket than my old surley was (surley was a 3/32, the others are 1/8" if that makes any difference).

good value well made sprocket though IMHO.

Thanks to SSSasky and VB for the bottom bracket info.

Import duty on bikes coming into the UK is obscene. It would add at least an extra 120 quid onto the price of a Steelwool Sweet City frame. It may even be more than that because I think you have to pay duty and VAT as a percentage of the total value of the item AND the shipping cost.

duty on the cost of the bike and VAT on cost of bike + shipping + handling fee which are usually £8 through Parcel Force. I had a steel MTB frame posted from the states (USPS, 10 day service) and the shipping cost was $55USD so hardly the earth.

my best guess would be:

frame $680CAD = £340
Post $70CAD = £35
Duty IIRC is 15% so £51
handling fee £8
giving a total of £434
+VAT at 17.5% =£76
Total =£510

My Voodoo MTB has sliding dropouts for chain tensioning and IMHO they are bloomin great. very happy with them, I did initially get some slip without the stop screws, seems fine now everything is tight though.

I have an Electra Townie Ladies frame and fork. basically its a townie 8 with most of the good bits pulled off it. just the frame (aluminium), fork (RST bouncy), stem(cheap adjustable) and bars. semi horizontal drops as it originally had a geared hub.

http://www.electrabike.com/townie/

I'm in Guildford and its pissing me off hung in the garage so if its any use and you can collect it, its yours.

I've had one on the Soma for a while now. No complaints.

thanks, that will do as a reccommendation to me, I'll get one ordered today :)

you could get thin stainless steel sections brazed over the track end, in a similar shape to the raised section of that track end above, then file the paint off the raised section leaving shiney metal that will not rust.

like this:

http://www.littlefishbicycles.com/frame/forkends.html

I've run700x28 Schwalbe marathons with a reflective band on the sidewall, they are ok.