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I would go for the first one personally if possible a satin black and pearl/reflective dots.

I also like the idea of 3, with a heavy red pearl fleck in the deep red to black fade.

yep, might get away with a 27.4 if I do the clamp up REALLY tight, but a 27.2 doesn't grip, I currently have a 27.0 and 3 layers of redbull can which are about 0.1mm a layer each side and it seems to fit.

odd size I know but someone may have one. cheap like a budgie, don;t want anything special. may also consider a 25.4mm post and go get a shim from my LBS.

My Harry hall has a pretty low BB, I get pedal strike going over speed bumps with 165 cranks and SPDs if I time it right/wrong. I've had 2 cornering pedal strike instances both on bad roads. I don;t tend to crank over when cornering too much, I try to lean my body more and keep the bike upright.

Aluminium is what they make mirrors from so that gives you an idea of how shiny you can make it. Raw polished aluminium
is shinier than chrome.

Also Meguiars metal polish is VERY good, not as abrasive as autosol, has a wax in it to prevent tarnishing and smells of coconut :)

Nice to know it seemed solid enough, I'm tempted to try a 3-leading 3-trailing pattern on my new build (Rigida SX100 off fleabay and formula type hubs) , but being a fat bastard (and the rims being very low profile) I need something pretty strong.

do you think crossing that last spoke of the second cross may make for a stronger build too, I think crossing all the intersection would be a little harsh on the spokes.

Got a new unused Miche Primato, if its any good make me an offer?

I cut the sides on mine and laced them under the saddle.

I found my B17 took about a week to break in doing 5-10miles a day. It felt pretty comfy from the start though, Just a little slippery. I think being a fat bastard help accelerate the break in procedure.

been watching them too, wouldn't mind a pair if the price stays sensible.

(PM me a price if you want to sell a pair outside Ebay)

I put tubes slid on my Soma bars before wrapping them in the Velo Orange sew up leather bar wraps.
it does look minimal but I didn't like the feel of it and the tubes I used (specialized) had moulding mark so were not 100% smooth kinda spoiling the effect.

They are a pain to slide on mind, a bit of washing up liquid works wonders but took about a week to stop sliding around. if I do another set I'll use 'hellerman sleeving oil' which is an oil used for lubricating little silicone rubber sleeves to slide on wiring as insulation, its a very good lubricant but after about 24hrs tends to go tacky.

But if you file the axle surely it'll lessen the thread?

Yep your filing the thread away to make the axle narrower, but ONLY where is is in the track end so the nut will never go onto the filed part. the axle will be weakened slightly, but should still be stronger than an 8 or 9mm axle.

could you not file flats into the axles where they will go through the track end slot, its only 1/2mm per side (probably just remove the thread). can a replacement axle be had cheap/easily?

Matt is proper none reflective, thing a blackboard or soot. satin has a slight sheen to it. matt looks very cool but gets dirty and marked easy and then tends to look a bit shitty IMHO, satin looks almost as cool and IMHO stays looking good longer. if you want the proper rat/beater look matt finish will get you there pretty quickly!!

Yeah Miche hub and lockring, before this I had a Harris/system-ex/formula
type hub and shimano DA lockring and had no problems at all.

I think I'll loctite this all up at the weekend and get a new decent hub ordered, I'm drawn between a goldtec and dura-ace large flange, both being about £70rrp.

nononno. Sugino do a BB of 103.

...let me find it...

its a rebadged RPM if you can find them too!

yeah, no worries.
do you have a chimney? ;-)

damn no!!!

went and borrowed one from my LBS this evening. the lockring threads on the hub (what brand of cheese do they machine these from?) are pretty well fucked now, it seems to unwind the lock ring and rip the last thread off, so I'm missing 2 threads and the 3rd is looking pretty poor. so probably time to loctite it all on and get a new hub ordered.

Goldtec or one of the shimano XTs re-spaced and a bolt on sprocket by londonfixiebike (or see if I can do that to a hope XC hub I have in the shed).

fair play.
i can throw quite far mind...

Guildford??

Meh, I'll buy a lock ring tool, thanks for the offer mister k but I'm not in london so it would be a bit of a trek.

You need specific filler if you are powder coating, your standard bog used for car panel repairs
and similar will not powder coat due to eing non conductive and probably crack out due to the heat of baking.

Proper miche lockring yes, I have a shimano DA lockring from my old hubs but I'm 99% sure the thread is different.

squoocher: I'd go EAI if a black sprocket would suit or probably phil if shiny shiny would look better.
I had an EAI which was great and now an on-one which is very good indeed for a tenner.

19st of gorilla skid stopping does require a lockring, even when rotofixed!

I'm having problems keeping the lockring tight on my Miche rear hub, I have the sprocket (on-one 18t) on the hub, rotofixed nice and tight. Then the lockring hammer and screwdrivered into place, it still works loose after a couple of weeks. has anyone had this problem and found a good solution. I was thinking about a very thin rubber ring between sprocket and lock ring as it would grip well on both surfaces, my other thought was a small amount of loctite.

Yeah, powder coat is usually measured in percentage gloss, so 'black 0%
gloss' is matt, 40%ish is a satin and 100% is proper shiny, you then get 120% which is almost mirror like black.

personally I'd go satin as matt black can look rough once it starts to get knocked about and dirty.

Recently found this. Are these good framebuilders?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEBTOX:IT&item=230239809475&_trksid=p3984.cTODAY.m238.lVI

I have a Harry Hall road frame similar to that (bit older and bigger) and IMHO its a very good frame, seems well put together and straight, rides nice. Just to give an idea I paid £56 for frame and fork last year (ebay) and it came from Manchester.

pics of mine

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread4834.html

Two or three suggestions:

check the OLN (width of read drop outs) - if it is 126mm (I bet it is!) then it is pre 89. If it is 122mm then older even than that.

check the underside of the dtube lug. If it is spear-point NOT rounded, then probably pre 80s.

Also it has the cable guides over the top of BB. I can't recall exactly but I think this pre mid 80s feature.

It seems to have allen key brake bridge - this would make it prob 80s.

The Reynolds sticker is late 80s, but as others have pointed out, it's been resprayed so original stickers would have been removed.

To me, this looks like a bog standard mid 80s clubman-style frame. But it always hard to date a frame exactly, unless you have access to the builders order book.

OLN is 124mm and the dt lug is pointy underneath. what do you mean by allen key brake bridge?

It does seem quite a nice frame to ride, I guess I'll settle at mid 70s to 80s as an approximate age.