Search results for:

I would suggest trying to get a 1mm spacer for your rear sprocket with the lockring on it should hold in place plenty well enough, then if you have 2mm of space between the front ring and chainstay shim it in a mm with some spacers, HubJub do some .6, and 1.2mm spacers, I got some spring washers from my local fastenings place and filed a flat onto one edge, they worked a treat.

I though BCD = Bolt Circle Diameter, the dia of the holes where you chainring bolts fit.

Can you space the front chain wheel in, I had my first setup with a shimano MTB crank, with the 44t chainwheel on the inside of the spider where the 32t one normally goes, then spaced it in further on some washers gave me quite a decent chain line (providing the chainwheel doesn't hit the chainstay). you could also fit a spacer behind the rear sprocket to bring it out a mm or so.

should be fine IMHO, just don't take anything out of the actual shell, keep it to the protruding tubes.

I want some form of front chainwheel cover guard for my Sugino Messengers, so its a 130mm BCD 5 bolt pattern with a 44t chainwheel. I want either a proper chaindisc or a large enough worn out chainwheel that I can stick in the lathe and turn the teeth off to leave a smooth edge that will cover the chainwheel teeth.

anyone got anything?

In laymans terms, crush the tubing of the chainstay until there was clearance for the chainring!

there was already an area that had been crimped/dented to clear the 32 tooth chainring, I extended this crush along the chainstay until I had enough clearance for the 42tooth ring. I used a combination of vice (to do the crushing), small piece of steel round bar to act as a dolly to crush against, pliers to hold the dolly and a piece of softwood to prevent crushing the back of the chainstay. paint flaked a bit but other than that I'm very happy with the job, I brazed in new track ends so the paint needed doing anyway.

Cane Creek crosstop interrupter brakes are £25 pair at my LBS, the specialized ones are £15 a pair. Anyone want to go halves on a pair, I want the right one!

I'm using a 103mm BB to give a 42mm chain line, I had to crimp the drive side chainstay further than it was to give clearance for the chainring. bear in mind being a MTB frame I have clearance for about 52mm rubber!

where is it hitting the chainstay and what is the frame made of.

You could have different gear ratios for forwards and backwards, may make skid stops easier? kinda goes against the simplicity of being fixed though

Just to point out this is not happening where the chain was joined, its happening about 4" and 6" further down the chain.

My old driving instructor now teaches police persuit driving and regularly rants about the appaling quality of driving by the police.

Cool, I tried 'working' the links while drowning them in oil to free them off, but didn't really get anywhere. My LBS said (in a polite speaking to customer way) being a fat bastard you may be better with a higher quality track chain, than Sram's cheapest 1/8" offering.

I've been running a SRAM PC1 chain (srams cheap £8 1/8" chain) for about 3-4weeks now, I started with it on 3/32" sprockets and I've now gone to 1/8" sprockets. I have have a couple of stiff links in the chain now, they do not straighten out once past the sprockets, I think they may be the cause of some clicking in the drive train. I've oiled the hell out of te chain this evening but its still not any better. I'm running 44/16 and there is 20 stone of me stomping on the pedals so the chain is getting some abuse!

any advice.

I like the control of running fixed in this weather, much more feel to the road, but the front brake is poor once the rim is covered in greasy road crap, I guess I should get used to using the brake less and slowing on the pedals more (and learn to skid with some sort of control)

Vice worked well, I've kinda chewed up the nice plastic Record jaw covers though :( needed to be tighter than I expected. Surly clone 3/32 sprocket, seems pretty tough.

A girl here has a roadrat, really nice bike actually, but running cheapy V brakes. I almost went with Mavic A317s and a front disc when I built my wheels but thought a std rim brake would be better (simpler and lighter) after the recent spell of wet weather I'm less sure I made the right decision :(

Cool stuff, thanks guys. I may try the rotofix thing sometime but I reckon the vice may still be easiest method.

I want to swap the rear sprocket on my bike, I have removed the lockring easy enough, but cannot shift the sprocket, I was hoping I could just jump on the pedals to unscrew it but no such luck, its a 16t and I'm lacking in any proper tools, any advice.

The best I can come up with is put the sprocket in the vice here at work and rotate the wheel by hand to unscrew (large pipe wrench/stilsons would be my chosen weapon but mine has been nicked), but any other ideas (short of buying a chain whip)?

thanks

You could probably build a rotating magnet array off the end of a hub to generate the EM field, you then just need an ' electronic stuff' pocket near the magnet array to put the stuff in to be charged.

EDIT: magnet arrag pay collect passing ferrous crap so don;t be surprised to find half a dozen rusty nails and bits of car stuck to it at the end of your commute.

A genny (car alternator) and Lead acid batteries are probably the most practical/sensible way of storing your power, I just hope the competition has more inspiring entries than everyone making pedal power generators and battery banks.

I would try and find a similar style track hub for the rear and as similar rim as you can find. build up a new rear wheel with fixed sprocket, remove one of the front chainrings and get a new chain on. remove the gear deraileurs and cables (and shifters if you like). That way you have not actually done anything irreversible to the bike if you are bothered about it. you can remove the brakes (or leave just the front) if you like.

I like it

Cool idea (the competition) but it would be nice to see some mechanical devices rather than a bunch of people pedaling generators to power electrical stuff. Like Jonaent (Jon) suggests a mechanically driven cinema, the old projectors are all mechanically driven so could easily be powered by a big flywheel, possibly driven through some form and centrifugal clutch to regulate the speed. You'd probably need to generate electric too, to run the computer and amplifiers for the sound.

something like a washing machine could be done purely mechanically

Cool stuff though.

lpg i had to break one a few months ago to free my stolen bike

shouldn't that be 'steal my free bike' ;) a couple of the £6 wall mounted bike holder/storage thing may have to be bought to tidy up the garage!

Hmmmmmm, I'll have a word with her tonight.

what is the top tube length of the Eddy? could be suitable for the other half.