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cool stuff, I'm hoping I can re build my wheels on to goltecs from harris/formula hubs using the same spokes.

what are peoples opinions on this? I don;t really want to spend £36 on new spokes, speaking to wheel builders some say you can re-use spokes (providing the wheel was a good build and not damaged) some say not to (including the 2 bike shops I spoke to, who probably wanted to sell me the spokes ;) )

thoughts of re-using spokes (they are only a few months old)

Very handy

thankyou :)

Anyone got the dimentions of the Goldtec track hubs to throw at the DT Swiss spoke calc? I need

Spoke hole PCD
flange widths (or just dist between as they will be symetrical)

ta

I have a pair of virtually new (50-75 miles on them at a guess) 36 hole Harris Cyclery (I believe the same as IRO/Formula/SystemEX etc) hubs in black, they have been built once with DT double butted stainless spokes and Mavic A319 rims in silver, these are Bombproof, more so than my old frame which broke a braze on some rough stuff with no damage to the wheels. I would like some lighter wheels for my new frame so I'm building open pros, but I have 32 hole rims.

So anyone interested is either:

swapping my 36 hole hubs for some similar 32 hole, I'd be happy with silver hubs

buying the hubs (I can use the rims for my off road bike, and I'll buy Goldtecs for the new build)

or buying the full wheels (and I'll buy goldtecs for my new build)

Not really sure on prices, I think the hubs stand me at about £50 so I would want most of that back, the whole wheels include about £36 of spokes and the rims would have been almost £50 so I would want no less than £130 for the whole wheels.

Being touring rims they are not light, 19mm wide so take 28mm+ rubber but they are insanely strong wheels, I'd be happy to sell just the hubs and but these on my 29er MTB!

SJS have none neither to roman, feck!

I have been offered a freeby second hand open pro so I may just strip what is on it and play with translucent candy blue or red paint and see if I can make it look something like.

Just need some 32 hole hubs now (new thread ;) )

Bit more thought on this (been raking through my bin of 'bits and bobs') my chain line at the wheel end is about 42ish mm and about 46ish mm at the crank. I'm running a 120mm hub in a supposedly 126mm frame that measures more like 124mm. When I got my 120mm hub it was spaced to 130mm with a 5mm spacer on each side (can you see where this is going).

If I were to put a 5mm spacer on the none drive side, it would bring my hub width to 125mm (spot on for the frame) it would also push my rear sprocket chainline out to about 47mm which should nicely match the front, the only downer would be my wheel would need (slight) re-dishing and this would put more tension on the none drive side and IMHO it would be preferable for the higher tension to be on the drive side, is it really an issue though? I know I can no longer flip the wheel but I don't think that is really an issue, am I missing anything else?

Yeah LBS is sure they HAD another but no one is sure if they sold it or it went to another branch, they are looking!

I may have found another but at full RRP and its it would need posting, would you trust a rim to Royal Mail?? not sure I would.

they would look cool on on my Harry Hall though.

Just picked up a blue 32 hole one from my LBS they are clearing out the workshop and it was a tenner (prob better than any other new £10 rim) but I know want a pair ;) so if anyone has preferably a blue one or if not a red one would do (bike is red and blue) I may be interested depending on the price :)

ta

Bill.

The fact your sprocket is just bolted to the disc mount, you can space the sprocket out with simple washers and longer bolts to fine tune your chainline. I need to space my rear sprocket out and I've been looking at goldtec hubs, I was aware of this system of hacking a front hub but couldn't find a decent pic of a hub to measure up.

also handy for jap bikes with 110mm rear spacing.

Yep, I'm running an EAI 1/8" cog and it did give a little more offset, I've looked around and the Goldtec does look good, the Sugino cranks should give me a 45mm chainline, I'll measure it properly tomorrow, but if so a goldtec hub could be the way forward and available in a 126mm width (which I think is what this frame should be).

I have a 105 at the moment and IMHO its great (so i dont really want to change), I get probably about half pad contact, I need about 7mm-15mm more drop to be in the adjustment range of the 105, the shimano BR-R650 would do me fine 57mm instead of 49mm reach but I may look at the bodge mentioned above, I could also make a bracket to lower the caliper off the fork crown too. Maybe I should knife these pads as a stop gap (crap pun not intentional) solution and then fabricate a spacer of sorts to bring the whole caliper about 10mm down to hit the wheel.

Yep, that is how I had it on the previous frame, but this one doesn't have the clearance for that (neither did the last one until I took a hammer vice and pliers to it ;) but this one seems too nice for that). Even if I got the chainring right over touching the chainstay I still think the chain line would be a mm or so off. I could go for a smaller chainring and run say 32/12 or 34/13 (I'm on 44/16 and trying to maintain about 70-73") but I wondered if there was a hub based solution.

I'm off to look for a smaller chainring online :)

I'm building up my Harry Hall (124mm rear spacing for the drop-outs) and I now have the cranks fitted (Sugino messenger wuth sugino 103mm BB), and the rear wheel lin which is laced on a Harric Cyclery/Ambrosio/Quando hub (the cheap double threaded track hub from the far east). now my rear sprocket is still sitting about 4mm in from where I would like it for a perfectly straignt chainline, what are my options?

I could re-dish the rear wheel and put a 5mm spacer on the non-drive side, this makes flipping the wheel a non starter,

does anyone do a rear hub with a slightly wider threaded area for the sprocket to increase the chainline?

or does anyone have any good ideas?

Ahh, that is not my problem, my problem is confusing the drive and non-drive sides of the bike :) (it was the drive side that was stuck :)) I found a small vice and managed to get the nut held in the jaws of that and wind it out.

I now just have a small isuue of needing a longer drop brake for the front, time to go brakeless maybe????

right I have the drive side out, no problems, the axle and most of the bearings too, but the non drive side which has just the large nut to grip for unscrewing has beaten me, probably due to my lack of tools, I'm using waterpump pliers as I do not have a socket or spanner large enough to fit!

and yes I'm aware its left hand thread :)

any suggestions or just take it to the LBS tomorrow.

Well, I've got the Harry Hall, its in better condition than the photos suggested, nice metallic blue with red detailing, couple of little scratches that could do with a touch up if I manage to find a good colour match. £15 for a shumano 105 headset which is now fitted, got my old bars on and the wheels in place, I just need to:
swap the BB from my old frame (chainline is a bit off with the supplied BB and there is some play in it)
get the cranks + chain on
cut down and flip my drops for that bull horn look
drill the back of the fork to get the brake to bolt on
find a 27.2 seatpost (a frined has a carbon one with the bottom 1/4 broken and I only need a short post)

so hopefully I'll have some pics up tomorrow sometime :)

EDIT: Good size too, the standover leaves just the perfect ammount of conker clearance :)

michelin world tour if they go narrow enough (more of a fat touring tyre).

I have these and I'm quite happy with them:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360025775&N=Cateye%20EL135%20And%20LD130%20Light%20Set

On my 'Project list' is to build a bar and stem combo (one piece welded construction) with an inbuilt headlight in the stem, as the bar won't run through the end of the stem the bulb (Luxeon LED most probably) can be fitted in there and I'll do a tidy clip on battery pack not dissimilar to the hope stem kit ones.

If you attach you rear light right under the seat I think it helps preserve the bikes lines.

Nope, I'm sorted thanks, a mate is collecting that Harry Hall on Saturday and if I can find a suitable headset I'll build it up over the weekend :)

Sorry Edited my post above to show the other two on my watch list:

The icing on the cake will be if a mate of mine who is driving up to manchester on saturday morning to pick up a slab of granite can collect it while he's there!!

I'll still be your friend Provenrad, I did consider letting you win it then asking you if I could buy it straight off you :) but though I better put a bit in cos surely it won't go for that, so I dropped £55 then £60 worrying that someone else must have seen it!

Got 'im :)

thank you kindly gents :)

for anyone still looking these also took my fancy:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180176369826&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330185189296&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014

Provenrad, yep that is on my list with about 3 others (all more local though). I MAY bid on the Harry Hall, my ebay user is bill_abong so we don't end up bidding each other up!!

jv I probably will fix it in time, I don't have access to a brazing set up at the moment so it won't get done for a couple of weeks (Did think about trying to MIG it, but it would be ugly) and I need something to commute to work on (could use my rockhopper but it has tractor tyres and is no fun).

Found that annoying rattle this morning was one of my seat stays broken away from the seat tube. Anyone got a suitable frame for sale cheap, ideally:

23-25" frame (I'm a good 6'4" at 34.5" inside leg, so anything suitable for that kinda size)
Must be steel
With a fork would be nice
110-130 rear spacing (I have hub spacers :))

Must be nice and solid and preferably not a boat anchor (531 would be nice), something a bit nice would be appreciated (old holdsworth cyclone etc)

I'm in Guildford and would rather not have to travel all way into London but I can if its the right bike. I have my eye on a couple of things on fleabay.

I'm looking at spending £50-75.

Just wondered if anyone had tried one of these? I don't know what type of rear hub they use but if it is threaded you would just need a proper sized chain ring and sprocket.

any thoughts?

I also thought about running a front disc hub on the rear with a pair of 10mm spacers, you could also fit an identical hub on the front and have another another cog on there, swap the wheels over (and spacers) instead of just flipping the rear wheel to change ratio.