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peejay78 it looks like the wallpaper in a tart's boudoir.
i like lugs; fancy ones, even; and the fleur-de-lys are fine, but that one squiggly one on the seat tube is sort of a mess. i'm not wild about it, even unpainted.
there's something incongruous about those blocky dropouts next to that fussiness. looks to me like there were 6 people designing it, and noone could agree. -
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yeah, listen to hippy. just this once.
it is a gamble on how long the paint will last, though i've used acrylics on washable fabrics which lasted years before cracking, even after being tumble dried, so your odds are decent, but
those bags aren't too expensive, and once you buy all the paint and stuff, feh... may as well drop the extra ten quid and get the ready-to-use bag. -
lpg thanks!
oh, and i am not 100% sure, but i think atlantis might be the cheapest place in london for acrylics. haven't been in a while, but i think they do a student discount, too...
you can probably get away with whatever kind for the first coats (if it's pretty fluid, it'll get in between the weave nicely, and work okay ok as a primer), but i would recommend making sure to get a heavy body acrylic for the last layers (it'll go on nice n' smooth, and dry evenly) in fact, your best bet is to just get a single big jar of a heavy bodied acrylic, and maybe add, like, a thimble full of water to the first coat, and then just straight outta the jar for the following coats. (sometimes the more fluid acrylics might seem like a better deal, but all you're getting is acrylic with the water already added-- so not really a great deal, imo).
whatever paint brush you have might be fine for the first coat, but you can get these really cheap foam-head jobbies (cheaper than a brush) that might be best for a really smooth finish. good luck! -
lpg the royal bag is great, tho, it just needs to be black .. get one cajeta, then we can gather them all and dye them together, might work out cheap.
You can't do it in a washing machine, you need to dye it in a special industrial bath at a really high heat.
i think.
(100% polyester).
dying polyseter's tricky business. synthetics generally don't take to dye so well, even with heat. lacks wicking capabilities, even at boiling point... i think there's some crazy chemicals added for industrial dyeing, but am not sure how feasible successfully immersion dying polyester is DIY style. if you really want it black, you could probably use a fabric paint (often similar to an acrylic), since it does not need to get into the fibers. i've used acrylic on some janky spandex boots, which actually made 'em look a bit like pleather. maintained flexibility just fine. you will need a few coats, and make sure you let it dry between each coat. it'll end up a bit like a plastic-y coating. may look like crap after a while (the boots are still fine years later, but they're not even close to daily wear), but i guess there's only one way to find out...
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Stef erm my phone is on silent and i am still in the process of moving house hence me not being able to find shit...btw this bag is a prototype, i'm the guinea pig but so far it look like it should do it's job nicely, the material is top quality and the pockets infinite.
so is that a bag that you made? i remember some threads a while ago that were about people stitching up stuff, and am thinking i might be interested in commissioning something, if anyone's game?
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it wasn't until a visit to a county fair a summer ago when i realized fully why so many jokes about sheep shaggers.
walking through the sheep stalls was like a stroll down vulva lane-- the poor things, their junk is all out there, right on their rear, like BOOM vagina!
one of the guys i was with was really disturbed by it. pretty funny. -
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htay I hate parcelforce doubly now.
haha, when they "delivered" my wheels, they left the (correctly addressed) parcel at a flat with a house number 2 digits off from mine, different apartment number, different street name (name began with the same letter), different postcode. called them, and after 2 calls, was finally put through to their depot, who said that they'd talk to the driver who'd delivered the package. i NEVER heard back from them.
luckily, the lady who ended up with them (next door neighbor to where they'd been left-- wtf) was honest, and kind enough to come find me and drop off my package. -
even with these locks there are all these nefarious hulks and houdinis busting through them. and the theives seem to (for the most part) posess that invisibility that happens in cities; people often just walk on by. i think it's time to sort out a way to electrify the locks, so that anyone trying to fuck with them gets a mighty shock. come back to the bike, find a would-be thief in convulsions from that moment his clippers tried to snip. heh.
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kipsy Saddle height sorted me out, i was about 1/4 inch to0 low! Have found it better to be the other way on fixed....slightly high....as BB is higher than my roadie bike. Stretch your knees - kneel down with your bum on your heals then slowly move your heals apart....allowing your bum to drop towards the floor....if it starts to hurt, stop & put a small cushion on the floor as a prop, you might (will) have tight knees (common to cyclists). Sit on this cushion, kinda between your heals for a few minutes...dont get too uncomfortable!
that makes sense, too. if you're bending your knees more than necessary, and possibly bowing them out b/c you don't have enough space to stretch them, well, there you go.
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the barker band.
sweet bluegrass (banjos, fiddles. there's a zydeco-y accordion sometimes, too. i guess it's mutt-country) and they're from Acton! playing tonight at a barn dance in islington!
http://www.barkerband.com/index.html
http://www.barkerband.com/music.html -
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as far as access to tools goes, i dunno if these places are any good (just found out about them),
http://www.hackney-cyclists.org.uk/workshop.htm
http://www.towerhamletswheelers.org.uk/workshop/
but they're what, once a month? bah.
i dunno, i think i agree with those that say bringing your bike may be the cheapest option. plus, then you're ready to roll from the get go.
london is a very expensive place, and you may find that those few bits that you end up paying for could have been better spent on other things, especially if you're just getting rid of the proposed build in the end. on top of it; and i am saying this as someone from the u.s.: the exchange rate is a bitch. srsly.p.s.
you know that swimming quarry in Breaking Away? my friend chris and I spent aaaages trying to find it! we found all kinds of quarries (active, and non-), but none that could be used as a swimming pool. we got lost in the weeds and the woods... we thought we may have found it, but there was a rusted out car sunk in it, and oil rainbows on the surface of the water. super bummer.) anyway, pray tell, is there still a swimable quarry? -
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patellar tendonitis:
pain in the: causes:
front of knee seat too low (raise seat)
(anterior) seat too forward (move seat back) climbing too much (reduce climbing) big gears, low r.p.m. (spin more)cranks too long (shorten cranks) poor bike fit.
inside of knee
(medial) cleats- toes point out (modify seat position--->toe in. consider floating pedals.)floating pedals (limit float to 5 degrees) exiting clipless pedals (lower tension) feet too far apart (modify cleat position- closer. shorten bottom bracket axle. use cranks with less offset).
outside of knee cleats- toes point out (modify cleat-->toe out. consider floating pedals. )
(lateral) floating pedals (limit float to 5 degrees)feet too close (modify cleat position-->apart. longer bottom bracket axle. use cranks with more offset. shim pedal on crank 2 mm.)
back of knee saddle too high (lower saddle)
(posterior) saddle too far back (move saddle forward)floating pedals (limit float to 5 degrees)
*significant warmth/redness may indicate infection and requires prompt medical attention)
- in most cases, rest, ice, compression, elevation of the ailing bits are helpful.
chrondomalacia: a grating sensation at the front of the knee, pain going down stairs, and a general ache, stiffness after prolonged seating are frequent features.
caused by excessive force pushing the kneecap onto the surface of the femur (thighbone) causing excessive stress (called loading or shearing force) on the underside of the kneecap
and may result in it's surface becoming roughened. roughening of the kneecap can also be caused will posture imbalance, or anything that causes the kneecap to stray from it's ideal path.
a relative weakness of the inside or medial quadriceps muscles is often responsible. a wide pelvis or knock knees may make the condition more likely.bicycling done correctly often helps this problem.
make sure knee is not bent more than 25 degrees from horizontal when your foot is at the bottom of your stroke
move seat back/ sit farther back in the saddle.
spin more. maintain a cadence of 85 rpm or more. avoid hills, especially long climbs. stand more when climbing avoid long cranks.
if pain is due to a tracking problem, rather than a load problem, pedals allowing some free rotation may help.
avoid squatting, kneeling, exercises that bend the knee more than 90 degrees. going walking/running down stairs/hills, or doing anything that increases load/shearing force of the patella on the femur.
strengthening medial quadriceps may help. - in most cases, rest, ice, compression, elevation of the ailing bits are helpful.
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score!