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Worth a try at £11 for a 4-pack delivered. Just ordered mines.

I reckon the forks are still out of alignment.
Just because they are new, doesnt mean they are true. Perhaps damaged in transit? Are they steel or carbon forks?

heres my clip mods to my aldi (ortlieb copy) panniers. clips broke and were replaced with a pair of carradice locking clips. simply secured by 2 nuts/bolts each and hot glued to prevent it working loose. still going strong 3 years on.

Ensure your rear skewer is clamped up fully tight.

I had a cracked locknut on my system x rear hub, for which I could not source a local replacement. My workaround was to buy a new pair of solid flanged hub nuts (couple of quid from ebay), then angle-grind them down to the same thickness as the cracked locknut. Or if you are already using spacers, then remove spacers and add the spacer thickness. Best way to hold them whilst grinding, is to screw them onto axle thread and metal-grind squarely. Lots of sparks, but worked for me, and they are much stronger than original. Keep solid flange side towards dropouts for final fitting.

I broke mines 2 years ago. I didnt realise it was broken until a month after the accident. I was then in a arm cast for 6 weeks. I took it easy for another month, then was back on the bike. Now I hardly ever notice it day to day, unless I try breaking a fall using my hands (natures warning reminder).

Tell-tale signs are tenderness in the "snuff box area" of your thumb/hand. Pressing hard into it causes pain. Prior to cast, I would also occasionally lose grip when trying to lift something heavy single handed.

check if the lumpy bit is braze repair. If it is, then the crack has reappeared after the repair.

I had a cracked locknut on my system x rear hub, for which I could not source a replacement. My workaround was to buy a new pair of solid flanged hub nuts (couple of quid from ebay), then angle-grind them down to the same thickness as the cracked locknut. Or if you are already using spacers, then remove spacers and add the spacer thickness. Best way to hold them whilst grinding, is to screw them onto axle thread and metal-grind squarely. Lots of sparks, but worked for me, and they are much stronger than original. Keep solid flange side towards dropouts for final fitting.

Also I'd recommend 'You've Gone Too Far This Time' brilliant book about cycling from England to India and only 69p at the moment.

Now available as a free kindle download

I'd recommend buying an rj-45 end to end cable tester, very handy. You can get the crimp tool, tester and a bag of 100 rj45 conns for under £15 from eBay sellers. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/index.html are good for buying wall sockets, patch panels etc and have shop outlets.
My 4-port ADSL router is on the first floor. I ran an RJ45 cable to the loft, and another to ground floor wired to 8 port switch. From 8 port switch, to mediaPC/ps2/dvd/tv and two wall sockets.

Here's my 25 year old Hack, featuring:
drop down brake bridge & welded rack mounts (angle bracket welded across stays with centre nut mount, and nut welded inside drop outs).

I stand corrected. Its a 10mm internal bore. Was measuring the stub flange on the axle rather than its seat. Cheers Andy

I measure the dimension using a digital caliper on the axle stub. Maybe I measured the wrong bit, eg stop flange after bore seat? will double-check. Cheers. A standard 6000RS bearing would be so much easier to find!

Anybody know where I can find replacement cartridge bearings for my on-one hub.
Dimensions are 26mmx12mm dia, 8mm width (marked 6000V PNB).
Tried online searches, but no joy so far.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BANKRUPT-700c-RIGID-1-RACING-SPORTS-BIKE-FORKS-BLK-200-/380149995873?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item5882b49961

I've been doing 26 miles a day on a 44/15 fixed gear for the past 5 years. Did my first year on a geared bike then switched to fixed, and have never looked back.

PS It was a 24mm seatpost.

Cheers Wicksie, Decathlon have them in stock. Shame their online service isnt quite running yet, will pickup from instore this week.

Samuel, I will post a closeup shot of both surfaces with a proper camera rather than my phone. It looks like the crack was slightly oxidised from the front of the seat tube after which the rest is a fresh shear.

Borrowed some allen keys and took out the seatpost. Rough measurement with a ruler shows just under 24mm diameter. Had a look on Sheldons site, and the nearest is 23.4mm (hard to find). WIll measure with micrometer tonight.

My options are:

1. bolt on a cheap seat clamp bolt to the hacked original post. Likely to require constant readjustment, and bulky.
   
2. Shim a 22.2mm BMX seatpost to 23.4 with a can shim
   
3. File/lathe down a 25.4mm seatpost to 23.4mm? Filing of 2mm sounds very dodgy, so will avoid this option.
   
4. Find another Peugeot seatpost with integrated clamp (hens teeth?). Anyone have one spare?
   
   

Suggestions welcome.

Seatpost was definitely right way round, as its the only way it could be adjusted in situ from rear. Seatpost had enough clearance for the rear light clamp, so it wasnt sitting directly on the frame.
Not riding 13 miles without a saddle on a fixed tonight. So will drive in tomorrow to pickup bike, extract seatpost and measure. I'll take a look on eBay, cheers.

Riding along and hit a small bump in the road. Luckily my balls escaped any damage from the sheared seatpost. One advantage of keeping a short seatpost :-) Rolls slightly scuffed :-(

The seatpost and frame is from my 26 year old peugeot, past 5 years in fixed mode, so its done its time.
This happened about 3 miles from my destination, and boy was it hard trying to ride fixed without a saddle. A serious workout for the calves, and strange looks from other peds/cyclists/drivers. They must think its the latest rage.

On the hunt for another french sized seatpost, or will have to settle for a coke can shimmy job.

I use a topeak twinhead with my compressor, good solid bit of kit.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2911

Has anyone else succesfully used the Wiggle link. I get to the payment stage (pay by card/paypal etc) and then it just hangs. I have tried deleting cookies with no joy.
If however I go straight to wiggle.co.uk (not using the above awin link), it will quite happily proceed.
Cynical me thinks they are hoping customers will just go back to using the non-commision link!

I have a neoprene cover whih works for me, as it slips next to my laptop in the rucksack (kidle screen facing laptop).

Cool, I buy from all of these except hargroves.