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Actually - fuck that. £56 for a pair of bearing is a bit steep. Got some SKF ones from bearing-king.co.uk for less than a tenner all in.

wow... thats should be fairly hard to miss.

I pushed the tubes apart for the photo. When I noticed it, it was all in line but with a couple of millimetres gap where it had busted.

UPDATE: I tried removing the old axle and bearings last night. One end of the axle had gone a bit out-of-shape at the point where the axle spacers and bearing cartridge had to pass over the get them off. I had to use a bit of brute force with a hammer and some mole grips, which it turns out was a really bad idea. Got them off after about 3 hours but mashed up the bearing cartridge in the process. You live and learn.

Still, it gives me an excuse to upgrade to ceramic bearings. I've found some on chainreaction for £28. These are the right size right? They're 6001LLB, (12 x 28 x 8mm)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=37524

An update.

It turns out there was was nothing wrong with the bottom bracket. When I stripped the frame down I noticed that this had happened...

I decided to go alu with carbon bits, and I've bought an Intec (Fort) P1 Track. I should have the bike built up in about 5 weeks, I'll post a photo or something when it's done.

Cheers guys, I'll have a crack at it tonight.

Aidan - where's did you get your replacement bearings from?

I've got a new 120mm axle for a Goldtec hub that currently has a 130mm one.

Has anyone ever done this swap before? Do I just knock the old one out with a mallet?

I'm not sure if I'm going to need a bearing press or not.

Cheers for the advice kerley. I think I'll go for the Fort and put some carbon forks on it.

Sheldon (RIP) explains why in an emergency stop you don't need to use the rear brake at all, even if you have two... [http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html].

If you've got a freewheel, you'll need two brakes to stop when it's wet. When it's dry, then front only is ok.

what will the bike be used for?

commuting?

racing?

racing / commuting?

bricklane shopping?

Commuting IS racing.

I'll use it for getting around (commute, pub, shopping), not velodrome or racing though. Will generally do no more than about 15 miles a day on it, might sometimes go 10 miles across London but I'm not spending the whole day in the saddle, so alu might be ok.

Hi Guys, I used to be a forum regular but I've been elsewhere for the last couple of years. I'm back because I'm hoping for some good advice about a new track/fixed frame.

My beloved Giant Kronos [http://www.londonfgss.com/thread708-5.html#post27852] is giving up the ghost. The bottom bracket threads on the frame are corroded and stripped, and the last time I replaced the BB I got the bike shop to glue it in place with apoxy resin. I should've been more patient and got a threadless BB. The BB now needs replacing but I can't get it out of the frame, so I'll need to do a rebuild.

So far I've narrowed the frame choice down to...

• Bob Jackson Vigorelli [http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=307]
  
• Intec (used to be Fort) p1 track [http://soniccycles.co.uk/products2.php]
  
• Condor Potenza [http://www.condorcycles.com/potenza.html]
  
• Mercian Super Vigorelli [http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/frame_vigorelli.asp]
  
• Dolan Track Champion [http://www.parker-international.co.uk/4236/Dolan-Track-Champion-Track-Frame.html]
  
  

Not sure whether to go for alu or steel. Of the lugged steel framesets I prefer the Bob Jackson to the Mercian, but there's a 6-week wait I think. I've heard the Fort frames are good, and it'll build up to a nice light bike.

Anyone have any thoughts or other suggestions, or any experience of any of these frames?

P.S. The forks off the Kronos will be available if anyone wants them. They're 1inch straight bladed ITM carbon forks with an aluminium steerer. I haven't measured the rake, but it's about normal I reckon, so about 45mm. Drilled for brakes. Only trouble is that the steerer tube is cut fairly short (the head tube on the Kronos is only about 9cm, and there's a 12mm spacer), so your head tube would have to be no longer than about 105mm for it to fit.

I've not come off for about 4 years. Last time was when I was going around a car that was turning left on my way up Holland Park Avenue - it slammed on the brakes when a pedestrian crossed in front of it and I clipped the car with my handlebar - sending my over the top of the bike. I ended up on the road, rolly-polly-ing alongside a moving bus. Loads of people came off the bus to see if I was ok - they said that when they saw what was happening they all shouted to the bus driver to stop. The woman driving the car was also very nice. I wasn't hurt and was able to ride home, I actually felt pretty good about the whole incident - how nice everyone had been. People surprize you sometimes.

I used to use one on the drive side, but needed to carry a spanner to get the wheel off in case of a puncture - so in the end I took it off.

Can someone show me the original thread? The one that caused all the trouble.

I agree with Jos, if you ride a long way then you'll understand the benefits of wearing cycling shorts. If you're embarrassed about people seeing your package then you can always wear some baggy shorts on top.

I think hi-viz waistcoats, dust masks and mountain bike helmets are to be made compulsory on the UCI protour this year.

When putting new tyres on, I always line up the tyre decals with the valve hole on the rim. I started off doing this because I thought it looked neater, but now it's become a superstition.

I've butchered a Brooks Team Pro. I just did it with a Stanley knife, it was pretty straightforward.

I ride open pros. Have you thought about DT Swiss RR1.1? There's also a deeper profile version called a 1.2 I think.

I got stopped going the wrong way up a one-way street, and said "But I'm on a bike, I'm allowed to". I believed it too. Copper seemed less sure after that and let me off. I was wrong though.

I've signed up for the Gran Fondo Campagnolo on June 15th and the Marmotte on July 5th. Anyone else on here doing either of these?

I did the Dragon ride last year and really enjoyed it. The route was good and it was pretty well organised, although the feed stations ran out of food and drink too early.

I always do it as far forward as it will comfortably go, because the chain will stretch over time (yeah, I know I should get a new chain if it's stretched). If it's too far forward it's hard to get the chain on again after changing the tyre.

Bikefix in Holborn did mine. I paid £70...

If you think that fixies are 99% aesthetics and 1% function, then I'd say you need to get out and ride more.

This spring I did some brevet rides to try to qualify for the Paris-Brest-Paris. I was doing the 400km ride, and I'd accidentally done an extra 40km by taking a wrong turn. I'd been cycling for about 19 hours, through the night, it was cold, wet, I was soaked through, my ass was so chaffed that it was raw, my right achilles tendon was giving me severe pain (turns out I had tendonitis) so I was only able to pedal properly with my left leg - with my right leg I could only really pull up. I couldn't get out of the saddle much because if I did it was too painful to sit back own again, and I realised that I had another 40km to go, and it was hilly. Those two hours were
horrible. :(

Something like these perhaps?

http://www.maree-medical.com/E_frame.html

Profile airwing bars. You can get them anywhere, wiggle for example. They have a little bit of a drop but not much - as the guy above says. WRT cloth bar tape - I tried it once, wouldn't do it again. They felt nice over short distances, but I needed some more padding since I ride quite a lot.