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rg37 that is going to quality!!! i like the gfx, how you gonna get them on the frame i got some decal paper and it was shit..or you going to hand paint it???

I might cut the design in paper and use it as a mask to spray it on.

rg37 i keep seeing shoppers and wondering what sort of beast it would make!!

A badass beast, good for pub action where you don't want your posh bike stolen.

wYs the orange and white looks well nice!

im gonna be making a neon shopper for polo very soon.

Soon their number shall be legion !

How about a Shopper race across London ?

aidan "firey liquid of terror".....genius!

:)

Years ago I got a large splash on my foot I just thought I would carry on and wipe it off in second when I had finished covering this door I was stripping.

Little did I know the standard Nitromors + skin procedure - run ! as fast as you can humanly run - just run !!! the faster you get to rapidly running water the smaller the smoking burning hole in your foot will be.

Oh the pain !

No way on god's green earth should you use that stuff without goggles on, one little misplaced flick of the application brush could seriously damage or loose you your sight in one or both eyes, they even warn you against anything other than lightly dabbing the stuff on in case you get a splash.

ffub That'll be the lockring tool ;P

Love the graphic though!

As above, I don't have a lock ring tool, I just tapped the freewheel/BB loose with a hammer and screwdriver, I honestly did not use anything else other than a monkey wrench, hammer and screwdriver to take the whole thing apart.

hardhat

edit: ffub just answered all the questions my brain was trying to get at methinks. thanks!

Same way for both.

A screwdriver in the slot/hole is tapped/wacked by a hammer a few times until it comes loose.

overdrive You ruined a lovely looking vintage machine with original features.Nice.

What are you an estate agent !

The choice is preserve the bike for some arbitrary sense of deference to antiquity or turn it into something useable and have fun with it (it's original purpose).

Coins belong in circulation, not in glossy wallets leafed through by fat fingered collectors. :)

hardhat wow. pretty cool to see it all stripped apart as well. great photos too. i'd love to completely pull apart a bike, but i fear once i did it i'd be stuck not knowing how to get all the pieces back together again. are there any special tools you need, or can you just use bog standard wrenches, allen keys and the like?

Monkey wrench - hammer - screwdriver and that's it.

Not an allen bolt in sight ! This thing was made pre-allen bolts/keys.

tallsam Thats sweet. Although to be honest the original paint job looked rad. Infact the whole bike looked near perfect bar the spots of rust.

It looks much much better in the original pictures than it did in real life, it's quite odd really !

It is very deceptive but the original paint was quite scuffed, scratched and chipped !!!

dogsballs awesome effort. surprised you didn't bog up the holes in the frame though.

Not sure what 'bog up' means ? - but I did paint the threads inside of any hole (BB, headset etc etc) with copydex glue so after spraying I just need to peel the stuff off, the BB has copydex and toilet paper stuff into it - it might not be obvious in the pictures. I have already peeled the copydex off and removed the toilet paper from the headset in the final pictures.

The Single Speed Shopper of Death™

Here is my £30 Puch Shopper I got off gumtree.com - it's actually an 18" wheeler and not a 20" like the 'Raleigh 20' - I might make it fixed wheel, although I might keep the freewheel working and keep it as a single speed (??), whatever I decide I will not buy anything as I want to keep the total cost under £60, I will just take the freewheel apart and lock it up inside with a bit of drilling and some polymorph and bolts.

Anyhow . . . here is the progress so far, bear in mind this thing is sized for a 12 year girl or a very small human man (or ladyboy), so I have had to buy a great big seatpost and a quill extender to pull the geometry right out, it actually was quite good fun to ride in its original form, but should be a lean mean racing (shopper) machine when finished.

I have christened it 'Death' because of the handling.

Here are the graphics I am going to paint on the top tube - although I am not too sure about the design as yet so It might change.

P.S. - the orange I have re-sprayed the frame (primer + aerosol cans) looks similar to the original frame colour in these pictures - but they are miles apart, the original is in fact a brown, dark rust colour - the new color is a super deep orange (like a fresh orange from the supermarket) but the colours don't come over too well with my girlfriends cheapo digital camera.

This is how the bike arrived, pretty good condition, but everything was grinding, seized or rusty, and it squeeked all by itself without anyone touching it.

More shots of the untouched bike, you can't really see from these, but most parts were pretty clogged up. Look you can see my beautiful feet (later to be scorched by paint stripper - never use paint stripper when you are naked in the garden !!)

Next I pull the thing apart with a hammer, another hammer, a monkey wrench and a hammer.

WD40 + Degreaser cleaned everything up, I stripped it down to it's bearings, everything was taken apart, no bolt left unturned.

Everything I didn't want/need got chopped off or came under the evil gaze of my £19.00 Homebase handheld grinder. Then the sanding began, lots and lots of sanding, maybe a couple of hours.

After all that sanding I thought 'fuck this, I need me some paint stripper' so I bought a small bottle of Nitromos and let the firey liquid of terror do its thing on the forks. BEHOLD! Nitromos has spoken !

The freewheel, which was grinding along was taken apart, down to the the pawls and bearings and cleaned out and stuck back together, the little bearings had to be lowered one by one into place (around 100 !! / two rows of 50) with tweezers, I used mineral oil to 'glue' them into position. The frame, which had been sanded back to the metal, got a once over with a can of grey primer, three coats of deep yellow, then two coats of deep orange. I then sprayed the forks, I ran out of primer so I just gave it a few coats of white.

So far . . .

Turd Fergurson we need to get that fgss bat signal that someone was talking about sorted out ha ha

You could just make up some (cheap) button badges, so you can recognize FGSS forum members from the rest of the throng.

These things don't cost much, I think I paid something like £30 for a few hundred a couple of years back.

Turd Fergurson ah shit! guys i just realised!

if we go mass tomorrow night we'll miss the BIG BROTHER FINAL! i havn't been watching everyday since may to miss the finally!

crap wat will i do?

Record Critical Mass on your video recorder.

wYs

Nice bit of single speed shopper.

Fakenging it since 1990 and proud.

Jake Surely if we're coming out of an ice age the ice caps are meant to be melting?

Not sure what this sentence means ?

Jake Are we being told it's because of global warming because western countries are running out of fuel and having to rely on other countries for it and want us to use less of it so that western countries still have control?

We are being told the the ice caps are melting because of man-made global warming, because the overwhelming consensus amongst scientists is that this is the case.

dicki if you delete a post no-one reads did it ever exist ?

Yes.

the-smiling-buddha just let go

the-smiling-buddha just let go

Is this advice for the chronically constipated ?

hippy I've not crushed anything but I do have loose parts.

Loose parts wear faster !

hippy I've only bent saddle rails crashing and I've not stripped a thread.
How much are tourque wrenches?

All my bolts and parts are super duper light alloy/titanium and pre-torque wrench I was always ruining things.

Torque wrenches aren't cheap, a Park Torque Wrench will set you back around £30 and this will only cover one range (maybe 2nm - 15nm) which might be fine, but to cover yourself you might need two, These Park Torque Wrenchs are the beam sort, which are easy to re-calibrate if they drift out.

I have got a pair of the 'click' sort which are great to use, but expect to pay £50 each (!!!!!)

Can you ever spend too much money on your bike ?

hippy How much do I care to actually use one? My bike is lucky if its cranks stay on for a single ride.. and I'm still not going to ride a full-carbon fork

Like I said I used to get all the usual loose crank, loose BB, a creak here or there, a slipping seatpost and all the usual bike problems we all get now and again, but since the torques moved in I have had zero bike problems (which is a revelation to me !!).

The day before this years London to Brighton I built up a complete bike from the ground, installed BB, fork, brakes, headset etc etc - I then rode the whole 54 miles (70 including getting down to my friends place) without a worry - I would have never risked this before as I pretty much know something would come loose, fall off or fail during the first few rides if not correctly torqued.

polybikeuser Don't think that would have solved the carbon to carbon binding problem though and thats what really freaked me out. Anyway I now have a nicely shimmed down USE Alien aero seat post fitted to the Pedal Force which is super lovely and a plastic shim between the post and the seat tube which I'm hoping will prevent binding from occurring again.

That should do it !

I am sure you are aware, but in case your not, you do know you must not use grease (of any kind) on carbon parts, it causes them to delaminate - which to me and you would appear as the carbon swelling (and binding).

On my carbon parts I use assembly paste, it stops carbon from slipping and makes it easy to slide carbon parts out (seat posts especially).

You can send the money to me and I will sort it out.

Used pound coins.

You need to start your image tag with {img} and end it with {/img}

***but use square brackets, not the curly ones I have used here.

andrewleitch86 I'd like to know what brake setup people would recommend using witha bike that has no brakes currently. I'm not wanting an aero brake mounted on the drop. Just a normal (maybe a bmx one?) on the flat bit (any name for this part? crossbar?).

'flat bit' works for me.

andrewleitch86 As for cables do you just buy a road set and discard all the rear stuff or is that way too long because of the aero lever cable running.

Just chop the cable to the length you want with a hacksaw/dremmel/wire cutters/pliers etc.

You don't need to be super accurate, just make sure the cable is long enough to go from your handle bars to your front brake, take a look at some bike picture to get an idea.

andrewleitch86 I'm wanting something relatively cheap but quite like the look of the Shimano 105 caliper which doesn't seem to be too bad.

The 105s are pretty good and pretty cheap at wiggle.co.uk or chainreactioncycles.com

Or Tune's AC38, super posh, super light.

hippy I swapped out the full-carbon fork on the Soma for an alu steerer one for the same reason - crushing carbon tubes.
I don't have a torque wrench and I don't trust myself to avoid over-tightening the stem clamp.

You heathens.

Best tools I ever bought was a pair of torque wrenches 5-20nm and 19-110nm - I no longer crush, over tighten or under tighten stuff, and guess what ? All those loose BBs, squeaking headsets, bent saddle rails and stripped threads no longer happen !