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more than you could possibly want to know about anodising:
http://www.bikepro.com/products/metals/alum.shtml -
is it really that much off though? even 1 or 2mm will look quite off to the eye if you squint down the chain because of foreshortening. 5mm would show a really obvious angle looked at from above, not just when you squint down the chain.
True, it's difficult to be sure, but when I sight along the chainring, the line clearly intersects with lockring thread, not the sprocket thread. Anyway, I'll wait till I get some wheels sorted out before I do anything (hub is currently rimless) - at least then I can cycle it to frame builder to have it checked properly!
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I think my frame might be slightly bent.
I measured my chainline front and back as best I could: it's between 42 mm and 42.5 mm at the front which I measured 2 ways. Firstly, using a metal ruler, I held one end against what looked like the centre of the seat tube and read off against the centre of the chainring. Secondly, which involves less guess work I think, I measured from the chainring side of the seattube by butting the ruler up against it (28mm), and then from the far side of the seattube using a flat surface held against both the tube and the end of the ruler (57mm). Chainline = (28+57)/2 = 42.5mm. It would be better to measure the diameter of the seat tube but I don't have a vernier caliper. It should be 57-28=29mm.
At the back, the spacing is 120mm while the cog centre is 19mm in, so the chainline is 120/2 - 19 = 41mm.
So in theory, it's out by 1 or 2mm. But when I check it by eye, sighting along the chainring, it's much more, 4 or 5mm. So does this mean my frame is bent? Or maybe just the track ends? Does anyone know a good way to check?
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I'm having some trouble with chainline too. I was wondering how much of it is to do with how far the crank is pushed on to the BB taper. I tightened the bolt fairly hard but I've no idea how you're supposed to know when it's 'right'. Is there any
chance of stripping the thread or should I just go as hard as I can with an adjustable spanner that's about 170mm long? -
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Those Specialized ones that look as little like cycling shoes as possible! Sonoma I think they're called - they used to do them with laces but I think they've gone over to velcro now. I had to take a stanley knife to the sole to get the cleats in though as the Frog cleats are a little wider than SPDs.
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there certainly is - my friend and i misspent a couple of days doing this a few years ago. The thing is you have to get the anodizing off before the polish will have any effect. We did it using wet-and-dry paper, starting off with a medium grade and going down to the finest. Apparently, a good dousing with oven cleaner can give you a head start but I haven't tried that. Once you've got down to the bare metal with a smooth finish and sanded out as many scratches and gouges as you can, then it's just a matter of plenty of elbow grease with the brasso and a supply of those soft yellow polishing rags.
You can end up with a mirror finish and of course any logos etched in the surface will have a disappeared.
The bare metal is softer than the original anodizing though, so you'll have to re-polish and occasionally re-sand to keep them looking perfect.
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i swear by speedplay frogs - they're double sided but with no moving parts on the pedal itself (apart from the axle, obviously). I was having knee trouble with SPDs but it was cured by switching to the frogs as they give you lots of free float (ie with no sprung force to hold your foot it a particular position). They're pretty light too, the cleat is walkable, and there's a grease port. Very satisfying to squirt new grease in and see all the filthy gunk coming out the other end. The only downside is that they're a bit pricey.
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sorry to hear about your bike provenrad - that's a real bummer. that back wheel sounds pretty distinctive - I wonder if the thieves are smart enough to spot unusual looking parts and swap them out for something more conventional? I'll look out for it anyway.
I wish I could draw it for you
The police should have composite artists for bikes ... you know, 'wheels a little closer together,
moustache handlebars..'don't give up on brick lane though - if at least one person goes in the morning and then pops into one the internet cafes at the top of the lane, he/she can let us all know what suspicious looking bikes there.
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Campag give the same warning about their road hubs, but I had a 28 spoke radial front wheel on a c. 1990 campag hub, and it was fine for years. When it did go (in about 1999) it was crack in the flange around one of the spoke holes, so I think you have to accept that risk when you build radial. I would guess that with a 32 hole high flange, you'll be fine for ages (as long as you're not too porky!)
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yeah! - how's that arm today?
But those suzue hubs are nice - their aluminium ones look nicer IMO, very well finished, but I guess the carbon ones must save a fair amount of weight. I wonder how those carbon flanges stand up to spoke stress?
Suzue went out of business last December so now might be a good time to pick some up.
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velocity boy That first one, I'm not sure what the value in it is. And I prefer more spaciousness, if it's something that you can find at a click (by looking at the thread) then why not just do that?
It's not so much when the discussion was started that I tend to be interested in but whether itss a recently started discussion or an old one that's been resurrected. Maybe there's a way to indicate new threads using the background colour, similar to the way that threads with unread posts also have a different background colour?
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there are some nice
tommasini chrome forks going on ebay at the moment but they're 50 quid 'buy it now'. -
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just a couple of suggestions:
it would be nice if, on the discussions list page, it state when the discussion was started as well as who started it.
when you click on a multi-page discussion, it should link to the last page of the discussion rather than the first.
is that sort of thing customisable under the current system?
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My brother and I biked over to Woolwich and had a really good view from the roadside as there weren't that many people there. Have any of you taken the lift down into the Thames tunnel at Woolwich? There's this dude of a lift operator who basically lives in his nice wood-panelled lift with a stack of books and mags and reggea and dub on the stereo - it's the coolest lift I've ever been in.
i think my brother got some pictures so I'll post them as soon as he gets them of his camera (assuming they're not just a blur :)