-
-
What a classic racer! Nice one. Take the caliper apart, clean all parts and assemble again making sure all contact parts esp center of arms, washers in between, and bolt are properly lubed. The grit builds up in the caliper bolt and prevents center of arms from moving freely. Alternatively get a modern caliper: definetely much better braking performance than those weinmanns...
Before replacing anything, do your research at Sheldon Brown page on classic french bikes as some parts (headset, stem, chainrings, etc) are no longer ISO (aka modern standard).
I had a similar motobecane converted and had to get rid of lovely cranks (PCD obsolete). If fitting a new quill stem, beware than french forks steerer inner diammeter is a tad smaller than ISO one: the stem will come in applying some brute force, but will not come out: sand the bit that goes into the steerer before installling it.
Hope this helps. -
-
-
-
That man was also selling a flat screen few weeks ago: You can check the "see map" to know his location (if its is genuine) there were reports to be around Shepherd Bush according to land line number.
http://www.gumtree.com/london/81/21580981.html
How to find: paste mobile number and write gumtree in google and it will come up if he has placed any other ad for dodgy items. That´s the best way to check the background of any seller when buying in gumtree.
Hope it helps you to get hold of him.
-
-
Beware of the self-extracting bolts which come fitted to the Stronglight cranks as they are crappy cheap aluminium: you can well end up with no internal threads in the bolt-hole and therefore no way to remove crank arm, even with a proper crank puller. That´s what happened to a friend of mine. Replace them if possible. The Stronglight are fairly OK, esp. for price, but not particularly well-finished.
-
Check keirin cycle culture cafe here
They seem to have what you are after, though at a price.
-
Once I tried to remove the anodising from a pair of metallic blued deep Vs I didn't fancy too much and wanted to turn into chrome. Plenty of caustic soda and two hours soaking and no success whatsoever. Even tried to sand it a bit. The anodising was tough like hell. So I gave up and decided to paint the frame in blue to match the rims. Surprised because with stems, seat posts, and cranks it just takes 20 mins and the anodising comes off with a light rubbing and the results, once the pieces is buffed, are pretty alright.
PS too late, as the previous post says sand paper is the way to go......
-
A friend of mine has the same problem with his Vigorelli frame. The 27.2mm seat post was impossible to fit in more than few inches. Then he tried a 27.0 mm but the seat bolt didn't clamp seat post properly and it moved a bit. I think he finally fixed it using a the 27.0mm with a home-made shim cut from a can... but not 100% sure. So probably you are not the first or last one to have this problem with the BJ Vigorelli seat tube. Good luck and sorry for not being of more help.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
I am having a bit of a clear out at the moment: I have two Galli (Campagnolo knock-offs) 52T and 42T chainrings if any one is interested. Specs as in discussion topic. They are used but still with some life left on them. I have only used the 52T ring for the velodrome a couple of times. I got them for 13 quid from Ebay six months ago: selling for 7 quid. The 52T is fine for the velodrome as would give you a decent gear ratio with either 15t or 16t sprocket. The 42t ring may perhaps be useful for polo.....
If any one is interested, please let me know in the next few days or will list on Ebay.
Collection North East London. (N16, E5, E8). Can send a pic if you wish to your email. -
This "oriental chap" has been trading at Brick Lane for the last five or four years. The first few times I saw him at Brick Lane he was selling one or two complete bikes -no stall. He then got stall and started selling parts and few frames and wheelsets. He normally has pretty decent stuff at good prices. I have to admit that years ago I bought from him a riser and set of V-brakes for a bike I was putting together for a friend. I haven´t bought anything from him ever since, although I always have a look at his stall the few times I come down to Brick Lane. The reason is quite simple. The stuff he sells is fine and in good condition but I haven´t got a clue whether it has been legitimately sourced. Where can you get a regular supply of deore V brakes, Xt cranks, easton stems, (just to mention few things I remember seeing in his stall)? Ebay? A workshop? Police auctions?....I really doubt it but please tell me if you know better.
-
Anything grippy at the front like the Conti GP 3000 now 4000. If you are into skidding, go for a harder compound at the rear like the Conti UltraGator. The Bontarager are cheaper thant the UltraGator but will not last you too long if you skid regularly. The UltraGator will, for sure, last you much longer and should be around 20 quid.
If the letters are not etched, the answer is yes. The old KORE silver road A-head stems (plenty of them on ebay) can have the letters removed as its just a decal: although the weldings are not pretty, it is just an inexpensive, decent, shinny, and text-free stem for your bike.