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Right I've just tried another stem which has fixed the problem, so at least I know that's definitely what it is. My SR stem was a pretty stupid design with the quill a much smaller diameter than the post; it was easy to see why it would creak
Only trouble is I don't have any other stems tall enough to get the bars to the right height. Anyone got one? I'll put a post on the 'wanted' page too.
Cheers,
Simon
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Well the title says it all really: my quill stem creaks in a really very annoying manner.
If I tighten it up it stops creaking for a day or so and then it's off again, disturbing the tranquility of the Sussex countryside and scaring the cows.
Any ideas? I'd rather not change the stem because it's a nice tall one which brings the bars up to the right height on a short frame. But if it's the only way to stop the creaking then I'll have to.
Any suggestions?
Simon
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I bought four of these Surly flip flop hubs from America when I was building my bike last summer, to justify the postage cost. I've used two of them, but the other two are still in their original packaging in my cupboard.
They are for 130mm drop outs (or can be changed to 126mm by removing the 4mm spacer from one side and swapping the 2mm from the other side to centre it again).
Anyone want one? They actually cost me as much as they do in this country once I'd paid all the various duties and Parcel Farce's extortionate 'administration fee' (d'oh!) but I'd be happy with £50 including postage each to a fellow fixie/ss type.
Cheers,
Simon
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Hi,
I know that there's lots of discussions about brake levers on here but I've been through a search and none seem to answer this question fully, so here goes:
Building a bike for my girlf and she wants flat bars, which I know nothing about because I use drops. I've got the bars (risers off a hybrid) but I need to know which brake levers will be suitable for the oldskool Weinmann calipers on the bike? Think I'm right in saying that MTB levers will have the wrong amount of cable pull?
I'm looking at mega-cheap Ebay levers, so I just need to know what sort of bike they should've come off of.
Cheers all,
Simon
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Building up my Condor stealth bike for the second time (having been re-painted free by Argos because of defective paint the first time) and have finally got to the bottom of the annoying tight spot it always had on the headset.
A tip for others here!
Everything was refaced and pronounced square so I concluded it must be a fault with the NOS campy headset. A call to campyoldy to get another one, and they said "sounds like you've got one too many ball bearings in there". I'd always just fitted as many as would go in (25 in this case) but apparently Campag specify 24, so I took one out top and bottom. Problem fixed!
Anyone else heard of this? Thought the info might help someone else one day...
Cheers,
Simon
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Hi,
Just wondering how long before people replace tyres that have managed to survive into old age without blowout, damage or persishing.
I've had a pair of Rubinos on my winter hack for over two years and I'm guessing that grip and puncture resistance must deteriorate over time. There's no tread left in the middle of them but I don't think there was any to speak of to start with. Other than that they still look fine. What do you reckon?
Also, when i do come to replace them, what's the pros and cons of foldable v. the non-foldable cheaper ones. Think I have the latter at the moment. I have foldable Vredstein's on my summer bike and they seem harsher.
Cheers,
Simon
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Hi,
Just wondering if anyone uses foam grips on their drop bars? Grab-on or similar. What's the view on it?
Currently I've got old-school Velox tape which looks great but my wrists are taking a pounding and I keep coming home with whitefinger :-/
Any other bar tape which looks decent (and doesn't have naff branding all over it) with good padding?
Cheers,
Simon
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Thanks guys, and apologies for delay in replying - couldn't seem to get into the site for a few days.
The frame is going back to Argos anyway now to have the paintwork re-done (the first time it was so soft you could scratch it with a fingernail) so I've asked them to fit stainless track ends at the same time. They've quoted me £95, which is a bit more than you're all suggesting, but it makes sense to get it done at the same time as the paint.
I did mean 130 rather than 120, incidentally, just because all my wheels are 130 to fit my various road bikes. To adjust from 126 to 130 whilst they're fitting track ends anyway doesn't cost any extra.
Thanks for all the help,
Simon
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Hi all,
I want to get the back end of my (steel) road frame changed from 126mm to 130mm and am thinking about getting track ends fitted while I'm at it. Is this possible on a road frame? (It currently has old-school horizontal drop outs).
If so, can anyone suggest the best frame builder to do this, and/ or how much it's likely to cost.
Many thanks for all your help,
Simon
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Really glad you all approve! :-) Cheers guys.
It was nearly a bit too stealth-y for an old git in a fiesta who didn't see me or my flashing lights just now. Luckily i'd clocked him at the junction and expected him to do something fucking stupid so had one hand on the brake. Managed to pull round him and bang loudly on his window which woke him up! grrr.
Day off tomorrow so some nice Sussex lanes await...
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My Condor stealth bike is finally finished!
This is the first bike I've ever built (didn't even know how to service my bike beforehand) so It's taken twice as long and cost twice as much as I planned but here it is at last:
I've done about 100 miles on it in the last couple of days and it's a pleasure to ride.
Thanks to everyone who has helped with much-needed advice during the build. :-)
Spec in brief: 1991 Condor 531 Competition tubing frame and forks painted in battleship grey by Argos Cycles (not recommended!), Surly flipflop on Mavic rims (latter found at local tip), Perfect(!) 47.5mm chainline :-), Sakae cranks and chainwheel, lovely singlespeed-specific 3/32" KMC chain from Charlie the Bikemonger, Selle Italia Flite titanium saddle, NOS Campag GS headset (from campyoldy), Campag seatpost, NOS Weinmann levers, Dia Compe brakes, NOS Velox bar tape, Vredestein Fortezza tyres.
That little lot cost me £500ish. Which is too much really. But it's cool, anyway. Hope you like it...
Simon
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Cheers ffub. I'll make the most of it I promise! Only trouble is I'm less excited about my nearly-complete fixie now. Still I guess there's room for both in my riding schedule!
Cheers for the advice re. wheels platini. I'll probably do what you suggest and keep the Campag sprints in case I ever want to sell the bike original.
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Yes the pink splatter will be first thing to go. Some plain black cork would suit I think.
I was thinking the same re. carrying a spare tub. There was one cable-tied onto the seatpost when I got it. Think I'll revert to inner tubes. Keen to keep those super-smooth campag hubs though, so I guess I'll have to have the wheels rebuilt with conventional rims? Presumably I can't just put standarad tyres on these rims.
Hi,
Does anyone have a quill stem which they're happy to part with?
It needs to have a fair bit of height adjustment in it; at least 9cm measured from the 'maximum insertion' mark to the top.
Preferably in good condition too, as this is to go on my 'smart' bike :-) Fussy in't I.
Cheers,
Simon