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:-) ALSO try googling for Oxalic Acid - it is apparently good for removing rust from chrome plating.
Pics are great to see the extent of the rust. If it is only small patches then I think using a dremel + wire-brush to remove it, then a quick application of rust preventor (like they sell for old cars), then touch-up the original colour with some nail polish / enamel paint (can get lots of colours from model/toy shops.)

to get pics up velocity boy has it all explained. photos will need to be hosted online first:
http://www.londonfgss.com/discussion/15/how-to-post-photos/#Item_11

I bought an on-one tensioner that looked solid and has a nice bearing roller. Bloody thing wouldn't fit my dropouts! They were designed for flat / stamped dropouts, not cast alloy ones.. AND they are designed for quick release wheels. I got it to work after extensive filing.
But it is a solid piece of kit, and I reckon the 'push-up' type (that tension a chain upwards) are nicer than the ones that give you less chain wraparound. BTW I used a hacked up derallieur for ages - if you are not worried about looks then it works - endof.

Ahh.. sorry. I just wanted to link to this anyway..
http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=3811296

I am up for the midnight rides becoming regular - Friday is good. Slow dope-smoking pace is good.
List?

Yeah, we should Anglicise the 'Ridazz' to some thing like 'Midnight Riders', 'Pitch-Black Pootlers', or perhaps the youthfully British 'Midnite Riderz'.
Original group was called Midnight Riderz (follow the link). Velocity Boy could never be accused of poor grammar in 'his house'.

bling-bling ICS (Italcicli Cycle Systems) showbike. http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Switzerland/ICS_main.htm

About the pre-glued patches advice - I don't use them myself, but in the context that the dude-in-distress had never patched a tube before and I was trying to get him home as easily as possible I thought pre-glued would be faster and easier.
With the normal type there is a possibility of using too much / not enough 'vulcanizing rubber cement' and the drying times are longer, and the tube can then get stuck to the tyre... but it rocks because you can use old inner tubes to patch newer ones if you are really cheap.

1. making inner tube patches
   

1. Rubber bands
   
   

^^^ was of course kidding about the hourly wages thing Dr. d0ca - I know you are currently a student you lucky bast**d!

Tommy? I reckon he's a vending machine.

I think people are making offers based on their usual hourly wage.

I'll do it with a patch made from a used rubberband, stuck on with some blu-tack. £5.00

Repair if you are sensible. Just go to a bike shop today and buy a pack of patches (pre-glued = better for you) tyre levers and a pump. Have you never done this before?! You can patch a tube until the patches need patching, and then some.
If you want I can come and repair your old tube and show you how for next time - ONLY £20! But someone will probably come along and undercut my price. ;-)

EDIT - ^^ Damn you friendly helpful cycling londoners!!

yeah baby! My first bike (not a hand-me-down) was a raleigh Styler (the baby Burner). But it was just as BMX was going out of fashion and I wanted an MTB + gears so bad - D'oh!
I've got a Grifter like this in the shed of my Mums house waiting for me to dig it out.. was £15 from a car boot back in 1999. I restored it to the best of my kiddy ability - including stripping and re-assembling the rear wheel just to polish that SA 3-speed Hub.

^ hhaa no worrries. me too..
I had a bike stolen from Beit Quad (Imperial) in 2001.. it was a 1984 Rickman Freestyler with Skyway Mags etc. all original. Damn I miss that bike. It was left there for approximately 4 weeks during Summer but I checked on it everyday - One day it was gone. :-(
It was just after the re-furb of the quad, they had security cameras installed but they were not switched on!! Argh!! Nick them - nick them all!!

Peugeot used tubing called 'carbolite 103' - its own-brand Hi-Ten style. Never heard of Columbus 103 though..?!

OUCH!! Didn't see that. Well it is under 6.5kg...

I do it! - was a little worried until I tried it. Frame is Columbus SLX - any steel should be fine.
Google 'cold-setting' as another alternative.

I just saw a thread about this on anothercyclingforum.

Is there a trend towards pimped street-fix in exotic materials? (TITanium ...anyone? Bueller? Cornelius?)
It even has mudguard clearance.
Check it HERE

Wagwan bredren?! Why you gotta be chattin' mess blood? Show me your flex - (sucks teeth) West is Best innit!

Try some WD40 + a brass wire brush + elbow grease... oops, sorry - thats for chrome.
might work though.. if the brass brush threatens to scratch the paint - switch to something softer, (cotton bud in a hammer-drill)
Also: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-336002.html
Don't forget the framesaver: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/chain-lubricant/product/frame-saver-10220

Haaa!^ YOu spent too long finding funny pictures...

You should be OK sawing the end of the Cotter pin off then whacking it out with a hammer + punch.
As Sheldon says on that link- they are soft steel, so you won't be able to damage the spindle/crank by hitting the pin. Perhaps some more penetrating oil? or a sledgehammer? Drill it out?
Its funny the way bike maintenance always ends up getting too involved - but you learn a lot by the end of it!

^^Saw that too!
Sadly cheap cranks (pressed crank-spider interface), cheap-looking pedals, and suicide brakes (with second levers to use on the tops) would indicate a cheapo steel frame. I think £125 is a bit steep unless the seller can confirm the frame material as 531 etc. - you may be paying for the Motobecane name.. Also I think they are French, so a possibility of BB threading issues? buyer beware!

^Good advice there.
As mentioned, it will be easier to get the stem off with some handlebars attached to it (for twisting & pulling).
Your cranks ARE cottered, so you could follow the instructions here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html - its simple, just whack out the cotter pin with a mallet (OR hammer + piece of wood to prevent damage) and the crank should come straight off.. Good luck!
p.s. - Is your seatpost stuck aswell?! It will be easier to get out with a saddle attached. if you need suggestions then search the threads there was a big team effort (advice) to help some guy with his stuck post.. if it is stuck, but at a good height, it may be easier to leave it!

Sunday on the way to polo tournament I was riding a fixed GT MTB with 25inch risers. Spotted by a guy on a green fixed on their way to work.
you "Nice cruiser."
me "it's not mine - I made it for my brother."
you "yeah, right!"
Told you about polo and you mentioned this illustrious site. Was North of Wigmore Street/East of Edgeware Rd. area. Who is it?