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I grabbed this off the street but I don’t have the time or space for it so I’m looking to pass it on. It’s a 21” 2012 Wethepeople Trust. The components are rusty but the frame doesn’t seem too bad. The top cap is seized and rounded, but sort that out and it’s probably not too far off being rideable with a few new bits.
Collect in BS5. GONE
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More pics here
Lovely frame, fun bike, but I have something else very similar and need to make space for a gravel bike (yeah, I know).
There’s almost no info out there about John Retallick but someone on Retrobike said he made frames in Hull in the mid and late 80s and this is a fine example. It’s Columbus SL, 56cm square centre to centre and has some really nice features including a fastback seat cluster and flattened seatstays. I believe the blue fade paint job is original, and it’s in pretty good condition - there are chips and some areas of paint loss/surface rust, but nothing that couldn’t be touched up. There’s a shallow ding in the top tube I guess from a swinging handlebar.
The groupset is 105 R7000, 50-34, 11-30. The cranks are 170mm. There’s heel rub on the drive side and minor cosmetic damage to the crank and shifter on the NDS from a stationary topple, but everything is in working order (the front mech is shifting ok but it does need a tune up to get it perfect). The bars are really nice Nitto compact ones. The stem is the only one I had I could get the bars through and is too short for the build really. I have a nice 3ttt one that I could chuck that would look better if you could squeeze the bars through (I didn’t try that hard). There’s a Tange sealed bearing headset in there. I’d like to keep the pedals, the Thomson seatpost, and the power saddle. I can provide alternatives.
The wheels are 50mm deep Chinese carbon. There are a few scratches on them and a tiny bit of damage above the brake track on the rear from where I dropped it fixing a flat, but I don’t think it’s anything to be concerned about. The bearings are smooth and they’re taped for tubeless, though I've been running them tubed with 25mm GP5000s (included). I reckon the frame has room for 28mm, but probably no bigger. I do also have an alloy wheelset (Superstar Pave) I could provide instead or as well. There’s a ding in the rear rim but it’s probably fine to use as is and could definitely be straightened out.
I’d really like not to have to split it so how does £420 sound, collected in Bristol BS5?
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I find measuring inside a seattube with calipers gives all sorts of different readings. If 27.2mm fit nicely wouldn’t it be best to stick with that? A shop with some sizing gauges will give you a definitive answer
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Topeak Road Master Blaster frame pump
Used (worn logos) but 100% functional. Size L which means 47cm compressed, 52.5cm uncompressed. £15 posted SOLDSilca Impero Ultimate II frame pump.
Absolutely premium stuff in excellent condition. Too big for all my bikes. Ideally needs to fill a gap between 55cm and 59cm. £65 posted. -
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22cm left on the 1 1/8” alloy steerer. Bit of scuffing inside the crown where mudguards were fitted but overall in decent condition. Room for 32mm tyres, 28mm and mudguards with skilful fettling. No star nut fitted but I can chuck in a Hope Head Doctor (black top cap) for an extra tenner.
£20 posted, less collected in Bristol. SOLD
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Thanks! I believe when these were new they had a 3-speed hub gear and that’s what the stops on the headtube and chainstay are for. I want to get some bottle bosses brazed onto the seattube at some point and I’ll probably have those stops removed at the same time. Then it’ll be time for a powdercoat. No clue what colour to go with though!
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What’s the 26” tyre of choice these days? Capable on light gravel but mostly for going to the bakery.