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Well used Boardman CB Comp aluminium frame and forks. Includes FSA headset (bearings need refreshing); Ritchey 120mm stem (maybe +/- 10 degrees not sure); square taper bottom bracket; seat clamp.

Dimensions: Seat tube 50 (c-t-c) 54 (c-t-t); Top tube 59 (c-t-c)

I guess that is a medium, I am 6'3" and its been OK if always a little on the small side for me. For sale as I got a larger frame on here.

QR dropouts on front and rear forks; external cable routing; IS disc brake mounts.

On the underside of the down tube it says: "Geometry: UCG Urban Compact Geometry; Frame: AI/T6HT (2XB Double Butted Tube) Model: COMP"

Its in decent condition with no dents, but the paint is chipped all over; as far as I can tell Boardman used melted down jelly babies for paint it is so soft.

Currently recorded on Bike Register, will transfer to new owner of course.

No idea what to ask, so how about £100 collected from SW13. ** SOLD **

More pics available if you want.

I have most of the bits I stripped of it (except those I needed to build up my new frame) for sale as well.

What an amazing read.

Thanks for your help.

Rightly or wrongly I have managed to feed the cable outer all the way through the frame and out of the end of the chainstay so that is what I have done.

Pinnacle Arkose cable routing question.

How do I use this “opening” on the LHS of the down tube? It has a tiny plate that screws into place with just a plain hole in it. I think it should be for the rear derailleur but cannot see how to use it. There is no cable stop in a suitable place, and the cable guide under the BB shell looks like it is for just the cable with no housing.

Is there a part missing? And if so wtf did they do it like that and not just put an angled opening suitable for a cable stop like they did on the RH side of the down tube?

Thanks!

Thanks very much! Shame about the RM strike which I guess delayed delivery?

(Must confess I didn't even realise this thread existed until you tagged me.)

What actual task is it for as sushi is the rice … do you actually want a knife for sashimi, i.e. slicing fish?

If so I’m not sure there is a single knife for all tasks, but we have a Wusthof 16cm filleting knife that is a reasonable jack of all trades, like this:

https://www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-wusthof-classic-fish-filleting-knife-16-cm-1040102916.htm

But it’s too flexible for boning a big fish and not up to a really large fillet like salmon.

Brooks provisionally sold.

Two saddles for sale:

Brooks Cambium C13: bought on here, tried once and it doesn't suit me so up for sale. Very, very good condition; I measure it at ~130mm so assume this is the 132mm version. £50 collected.

Selle Italia Shiver Gel Flow, black with FEC Alloy (whatever that is) rails. Very good condition; used lightly on my Brompton, but now changed to a Charge Spoon to match my commuter. £10 collected.

Collection preferred from SW13, but happy to discuss delivery options.

Anyone have a Shimano Hollowtech 2 or BBR-60 bottom bracket tool in or near to SW13 I could borrow very briefly?

I have BBR60 BB to install - I have the adaptor so believe either will work.

I'm in Barnes SW13, just need to use it for a few minutes to fit to a new (to me) frame. At least I hope its only a few minutes work!

Anywhere in the W/SW areas should work.

The Meridian recipe that does have salt has 10g per kg.

Reduced to £15

** moved to eBay **

Almost a permanent fixture now … titanium Sealander Elite

Did you find one? If not I have a C15 available.

Did you ever get one - I have one you can have.

Men's long sleeve DHB merino blend jersey. Dark blue; full zip; ventilation panel on the back; three back pockets plus a small zip pocket.

Worn a few times but I find it too short for its width. I'm 6'4" and 82kg if that helps.

Armpit to armpit measurement is 48cm; length (bottom of collar to hem) 65cm.

We have cats, so bear that in mind ...

Wiggle don't seem to sell it any more, how about £20?

Collection from SW13 or post at cost. Or can meet somewhere convenient.

That’s awfully kind of you - I would expect to pay of course.

Well they need to be held in hand - they are actually going to be for flags - so not too big. If the internal diameter is 15mm, would 25mm for the outside diameter be feasible?

However, I wouldn't make anything yet, I don't have the dowel yet and I'd like to be sure what size it actually turns out to be, though it's described as 15mm.

I want two shaped wooden handles that will fit on the end of dowel rods - probably about 15mm diameter dowel. Need to be firmly attached so the dowel needs to insert maybe 7-8 cm and I’m thinking glued in place but needs to be a close fit.

Each handle to be maybe 15cm long overall, something like that. Shaped for grip and appearance.

Ideally made in nice wood that looks good.

Apologies for not having read the whole thread, but is there anyone here that does wood turning? I have a small project in mind that will require a bit of turned wood (well two bits actually) and I'd like to chat to someone who knows what they are doing to work out if it is actually practical to do (I think it is obviously).

That Niwaki then, looks good.

Kuhn Rikon. Actually Swiss but amazing for the money. They do look a bit funky rather than traditional Japanese mind …

Thanks both.

Probably a numpty question here but why are “Brompton” chains so expensive? I have a 2010 3 speed and need a new chain and probably sprocket. Any reason not to put well basically any old cheap (E.g. 7 speed or similar) one on? It’s only got one sprocket at each end after all.

I’d be surprised if it were pitted like that from new. However, the pitting is so deep that removing it (belt sander probably needed) would substantially change the profile of the blade, it’ll probably end up noticeably thinner and would remove the bulk of the makers mark, if not all of it.

You could try some coarse wet and dry sandpaper and see if you can remove just enough to look nicer but not go too far. Then move on to medium and fine paper to get a good finish.

Because of the shape and profile of the blade I’d see if I could secure the sandpaper to a slightly convex surface and work the blade over it, rather than the other way around.

Work slowly - you can always take more off but can’t add any material back on!

Hmm. That looks fairly deep. Not sure you can both remove the pitting and not substantially remove the maker’s mark.

Don’t think that is a home-without-a-workspace job really.

A pleasure … was a good ride, though a bit wet on the way home!