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Well a bit of Googling suggested that a possible cause is the cable being too tight - I slackened it off slightly and it has improved, albeit only a bit.

Don't think so - it all looks pretty smooth.

I "think" the shifters are 5700 and the FD is R3000.

The front derailleur on my Arkose is really heavy to shift. The whole set up is a bit of a mish mash of what I had available - 105 brifters (10 speed not sure of the gen) and a Sora front mech. The inner is a brand new Shimano optislick thing, outer is new Jagwire.

The mech moves freely, I've just installed a new inner cable, taking care to ensure it wasn't tangled around any other cable in the frame (F&RD and rear brake cables all follow the same internal routing).

The rear mech (same combo) is very light to shift so not sure where to look. And for comparison the FD on my Storck (Ultegra 6800 throughout) is just lovely.

Any ideas?

Just stumbled on this thread. I used to collect Penguin paperback first editions. At one point I had nearly 800 but have got rid of the vast majority … just keeping those in the first 100 and a few others that I particularly want.

How loud or otherwise is the rear hub?

I don’t disagree but doesn’t that basically describe the requirements as set out?

Agree with the comments that this was likely not affected by the driven wheels, but anyway what about a Mk 3 TT-S ?

Amazing interior, quite capacious, looks great (I think), probably a bit dull to drive, but jolly quick.

I’ll take the wheels if they haven’t already gone.

Following up on my earlier post about making umpires' flags I have now had a go at making a set with leather grips. Much self-teaching, watching of YouTube videos, investment in a cheap beginners kit of tools and lots of practice later, the first version turned out not too badly, though I say so myself.

Having made the first set people have been asking me to make some for them, so I am now halfway through making set number four.

Every time I make a set I find some small improvement I can introduce.

The pictures show sets 2, 3 and (unfinished) 4.

Did these ever sell?

Seems a very odd number? Especially as the diagrams I see suggest 22 per pedal - two sets of 11.

I have a set of M324 double sided SPD pedals on my gravel/general milling about bike.

One of them has developed a fair bit of play and noise - I assume it is the bearings.

Questions:

1. can they actually be replaced? I see some comments online that they are not replaceable but also replacement bearing sets for sale.
   
2. is it worth doing or am I better off just buying a new set of pedals?
   
3. How hard a job is it?
   
4. Can I just buy suitable bearings from any old bearing supplier? If I buy bearings as "Shimano Spare Parts" they seem to be about 10 or 12 quid for 62 (why 62?), whereas if I just buy 3/32 steel bearings I can get 100 for a couple of quid.
   

Rotors sold, other bits still available.

I’m a member of the rowing club between the two pubs and the tables haves definitely be increased. In particular the Rutland now has tables on the river side of the path which is meant to be kept clear for rowing boats.

Agree with your navigation advice although I stay out on the GWR until Black Lion Lane and avoid the narrows past the Old Ship.

Part of the problem west of Hammersmith Bridge is that they have allowed the pubs to encroach so much onto the path with outside tables that the usable path is much much narrower than it needs to be.

Months and months ago I asked on this thread if anyone could make me two turned wooden handles. @moocher stepped up and very kindly made exactly what I wanted out of some reclaimed oak, stairway spindles I think.

They were for making a set of rowing umpire's flags. I had set myself the challenge of making my own set and, amongst other things had to learn how to sew with a machine. Anyway after quite a bit of practice and many errors here is my first completed set made with moocher's handles: heavy cotton cloth, sapele dowels and oak handles.

As I wasn't able to turn the handles myself, my next challenge is to learn how to work leather and make leather grips for the next set.

Adding some more bits:

Crud Road Racer mudguards, bought on here, but wouldn't quite fit. Also needed new fixings, so I bought those and they are included - £15.

Zefal cable lock - bought in a crisis, but not really needed, three keys and with luck the carry/fixing bits will be around - £10

Ritchey 27.2 alloy stem, two bolt fixing, 300mm - well used, but sound - £10

And replied.

Sure, will post at cost - can't be much.

SOLD A pair of 160mm 6-bolt disc rotors, never used. Came with my Juin-Tech F1 calipers, but my wheels are centre lock. £10 SOLD

A plain unbranded 100mm alloy stem - perhaps 7 degrees? Came with my Arkose, since replaced for a 0 degree stem. £5

Collection from Barnes SW13.

Wasn’t sure whether this was best here or in the food thread, but decided it was a bread-based product (flour, yeast etc) so put it here.

First attempt at cardamom buns … pretty pleased with how they turned out, though the sizes/shapes are all over the place. Was worried they would be too cardamom-y with 35 pods in there, but no just lovely:

Of course it is more accurate to say that bitcoin sent to an address without keys are irretrievably lost but not destroyed.

Regarding the other ways - certainly some have been properly destroyed by not being claimed properly in the Coinbase reward, according to this article more than 10 BTC have been lost in this way: https://medium.com/@alcio/how-to-destroy-bitcoins-255bb6f2142e

I thought the question was how to kill “a Bitcoin” which is very easy … send it to an address for which the private key is not known. Like the Bitcoin eater address.

Home made batch … 10/10 obviously … 😉