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Also fitted black Friday LB R25s on Bitex hubs to my Kona because I'm weirdly attached to it and enjoy riding it. And because I've made it totally unsuitable for touring/using in gross conditions (Argos paint is beautiful but soft), I stripped the Moser frame and built up a 531 Joe Waugh with the parts and SKS Bluemels. One ride so far, very comfy.
Apologies for the shit photo compositions and quality, only have a phone and ability to work on bikes in the evening. Proper camera and lighting come springtime!
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The Cannondale lives in a cupboard at work along with the Merckx to keep things D-1 as per this thread:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/383374/?offset=25#comment16847959
Stronglight headset knocked out, Tange Falcon pressed in. Steerer cut to keep the stack low. Shit pic in situ but the black headset tidies the front up nicely. Bars and levers undergoing strenuous BDHU analysis, R7000 and traditional drop bars is a bit of a challenge...
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This story is mad! You might want to enquire here:
https://forum.tz-uk.com/forumdisplay.php?30-Lost-and-Found
User Haywood Milton runs a pawnbroker and is very active regarding stolen/lost watches
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Quick question: I've fitted SKS Bluemels to a frame with traditional horizontal dropouts. Is there a neat way to tuck the rear mudguard tighter to the wheel at the chainstay bridge, whilst giving you a chance of getting the wheel off on the roadside? I'd thought of using a longer bolt and rubber washer between the bridge and mudguard, but that'd trap the wheel in the dropout.
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Not sure if relevant to your predicament, but this guy on Weight Weenies used some plastic tabs in the fork dropout to shift the wheel a little further down and increase clearance
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127564&start=45
De Rosa Neo Primato, 54cm, aggro purple and yellow paint:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266114668029