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I believe that the thing that you both are not taking into account is that @Velocio would have to bear the weight of the sliver of possibility that things might go wrong. Given what's at stake, the likelihood of that happening doesn't matter much, unless it's zero without a shadow of a doubt.

This is very different from dealing with trolls: the judicial system is a terrifying beast, and I understand why someone wouldn't want to be in harm's way, even if the odds are infinitesimal.

Until there's a way to make sure that @Velocio is completely, undoubtedly safe, this is not about "a proportionate response".

My apologies if I'm completely missing the mark @Velocio.

This is great news, thanks a lot! Does that potentially open an avenue for LFGSS as well?

It is most likely the stupidest idea ever, but I guess that at this stage anything goes: the fate of the french side of LFGSS, pignolefixe.microcosm.app, is of course completely tied to that of LFGSS.

I understand that, given the potentially gigantic fine, you don't want to be even a little bit at risk @Velocio. Would passing the reins (on paper) to a french citizen and have a majority french userbase put you comfortably out of harm's way?

If that's the case, could we imagine a merger of some kind? Pignolefixe userbase is unfortunately much smaller than lfgss', but maybe keeping the access limited to currently active lfgss users (until the legislation gets clearer, at least), you might achieve a majority non-UK users on the merged website?

I think, on the french side, we'd all be more than happy to create tens of accounts if needed to tip the scales, though I imagine the legislation will mostly track actually active users.

Are you happy with the clamps and do you think they work for bending or cutting mudguard struts for instance ?

@platypus: I'm on mobile atm so I haven't given an in-depth look to it, but it seems that the Auer products don't interlock or can't be put on rails (they do have a drawer unit with trays for the boxes but I'm not sure how modular that is).

The SYS-MFT pictured above is also a big selling point for me tbh, as I'd like to slowly get into woodworking, with the ultimate goal being cabinet-making. Not sure how realistic that is given my situation but it seems that a pair of SYS-MFT would make a decent stowaway workbench from the reviews I've watched.

@hugo7: yeah I've been oriented towards the Packout or TStak system, but they're minging 😅 and I wasn't able to find them for less than Systainers in France. Systainers are at least neutral, esp. if I replace the handles (I know Tanos' are blue, but I want Systainer 3, and the only ones I can find in France are Festool-branded).

Thinking about buying a bunch of Systainers to fit all my tools, with customizable foam inserts.
I live in a small apartment and move often, so I thought it'd be the most modular and practical solution: for now I'll put them under my bed, then, once my living situation is a bit more settled, I'll probably use the rail system to put them in a custom cabinet with a door.
It sounds both more convenient and prettier than having a big tool chest with drawers in my living room.

To save some money, I was thinking about buying a single tall one and going the @Dammit route for my bike tools by stacking foam inserts inside, then separate the rest thematically in different systainers (metalwork, generic home tools, etc.).

Before I drop half a grand on that, any counter-argument to what I envision?

Also, what do you think about the SYS-MFT one? Could it replace a vice for simple metalwork (mounting mudguards mostly), with Festool's fast clamps?
I've seen it on here (@Dammit again, maybe?) but I can't find the post.

I have broken half of a locking tab on my Edge 1030.

After discussion on the french side of microco.sm, I have been told that the locking tabs are probably made of ABS or an ABS/PC mix.

I've thus been recommended, following the tables on p.21 and 41 of this document, either Loctite 401 for ABS or Loctite 770 for PC. They're both cyanoacrylate, so possibly too brittle, but the advantage is that they would be liquid enough to slip in the crack.
Loctite 380 might be a bit better regarding brittleness as it has some elasticity (though still a cyanoacrylate), but the bonding strength is ~5 times lower.

A friend has also suggested simply completely replacing the back cover (as they can be found for around ~20€ on ebay), but, as that would mean breaking the seal around the screen, I'm worried about water ingress.
This is what I use for "long distance" stuff, Paris is very rainy and the Edge design isn't particularly weather resistant by default (the screen being slightly recessed into the body, the seal is doing all the work), so I fear it might die on me during a ride.

Has anyone on here tried one of these successfully or has a better understanding than I do about bonding plastics?

(I would like to avoid solutions like DogEars, however functional they may be, as they feel too bodgy for my taste, esp since I've only broken half of a tab.)

(sorry, no contribution to the thread, but fyi, there is a tool sold by DMR to remove and replace the v12 bushings. I own it and have not used it yet; I remember it costing ~half of the price of a pair of v12.)

Are you, by any chance, forcing them into place to match your tyre radius, rather than shaping them beforehand?

That's most likely the reason why my own Berthoud cracked at the seatstay bridge.

I was of course happy to pay for the shipping, but after giving it a bit of thought overnight the steerer is too short for my needs atm, and I don't want to start yet another project... I'll relay the sale to someone who might be interested though!

I'll take it if shipping to France is an option!

We even discuss this through PM, but I won't out my fellow neurotics...

I agree that this is long enough, and would be perfect with a flap. It's possible that Berthoud has some length inconsistencies across their range, as my 700c Berthoud was not as long.
Judging from my picture above, it reached the same point as yours, but with a flap. This was good enough for my feet, but didn't protect the BB and drivetrain as well as my longboard.

My longboard, for comparison (ignore the BDHU, it's an old picture). Looks like shit, works well. It's hard to see from the picture, but the bottom of the flap is less than 4 cm off the ground.

I bought 26" and 700c Berthoud, both the "long" version. The 700c were approximately the same length as my VO ones (I've unfortunately deleted the picture since), and the 26" were only slightly longer than Bluemels.
It's possible that Berthoud fucked up the order and gave me the short version both times, as I'm not 100% sure they were on top of their shipping game (one of the packages was missing all of the mounting hardware, which of course they provided at no extra cost afterwards), but if they didn't I wouldn't call their fenders "very long".

Some pictures below (the unmounted ones are the 26", the shitty picture in front of the arc de triomphe are the 700c with added SKS flaps). Not the best pictures to show off length, but still might give a clue.

I've been wondering the same, as every front mudguard I've had (GB, VO and Bluemels, which are indeed way too short) was slightly disappointing in terms of front coverage compared to longboards (which almost touch the ground).

Thankfully I've not had to replace my longboards yet, but if I were to do so on a reasonable budget (i.e. no Honjo), I'd probably go for Pelago mudguards with extra-long flaps (e.g. from Raw, if you're in the UK).
If the flaps turn out to be too floppy, it's easy enough to add a flat alu/stainless steel bracket on the inside to increase rigidity. The SKS flaps are fairly short compared to the ones I've bought from Ass Savers, which are themselves shorter than the long ones you can get from Raw, so, on paper, I think it's easy enough to reach coverage similar to longboards.

As a bonus, they'll look way better than longboards.

An Aphex B'Twin of sorts? I'm worried it'll keep making strange noises 😬

It even has a lil derailleur hanger, alas QR only

Very nice, can't wait for the Aphex Twin dropouts

I will take the Edelux if shipping to France is an option :)

Thanks for the advice, will keep that in mind!

As for the tyre mounting tool, I can also vouch for it (although the pic showing it in use is completely wrong!), though for peace of mind I prefer having a tyre/rim combination that can be easily fitted with tyre levers only. I've sold wheels solely for that reason.

Thanks a lot, they look like a perfect replacement for my Docs chelseas, which started looking like clown shoes fairly quickly.

Sorry to come in this thread for fashion half the time (as a former fashion forum user myself, I don't know where else to get my fix), but : shoes id?

To be honest I read your first message quickly and didn't really catch on the last part of it that said you had experience with the new, 'grvl' one! Good to know about the new wheels, thanks :)

No more comments on the hydraulic vs HyRd vs cable disc situation, I hate them all equally and wish all bikes had v-brakes, frankly 😅

Yeah my comments were mostly referring to the first one you linked. Yours, despite very similar looks, is a different frame and fork.
Not sure if they chose better rims on yours : have you tried removing a tyre yet?

Anyways, it's great that you're getting along with the HyRd, but they remain a dealbreaker for me. We have a 18 pages thread on a French forum of people trying to diagnose issues with them or just reporting they broke for no reason, just like mine did. As far as setting them up, they are also actually closer to a hydraulic brake than a cable brake, if I recall correctly : you're not supposed to use the cable to adjust anything, just pull it tight while a screw is blocking the actuation arm.

I don't know the UK market very well so I'm unsure how much more you need to pay for a similar bike with fully hydraulic brakes, but I thought people should take into account the flaws I mentioned when making their decision (though some don't apply to your model, I get that). I know that price looks very tempting (esp. when it was 850€ with a mostly complete 105 groupset), but people will pay for it later down the road with more maintenance and headaches imo.

Did you buy one of the models with the painted fork (either dark red or grey)?

Would strongly recommend not buying one of these, it's a false bargain, esp. with the price increase (bought mine when it was 850€ - actually paid 999€ because I wanted the better paint, but the bike is more or less the same).
You're better off spending 500€ more to buy a bike with full hydraulic and modern standards, and not worry about having to replace things in the following months. I bought mine in 2021, so there might have been some improvements since, but, in no specific order :

• Broke 3 spokes on the rear wheel after less than 2000 km. I am 65 kg and was only using the bike to commute, on standard roads. It is apparently a known fact by Decathlon mechanics that the wheels are badly built, but some people have had a hard time getting the repair to be covered by warranty, apparently. I didn't even try, as they wanted me to bring back the whole bike to have the spokes changed, as well as having to wait at least 3 weeks (without a bike).
  
• On top of that, wheels suck. They're not just heavy, fitting or removing a tyre is a nightmare (or just random). It took me 1 hour, at home, to remove the Pirelli Cinturato Velo I had fitted on there. Same ordeal with the Overide it came with. I couldn't mount GP5000 on them. These are all fairly supple tyres that I can mount and unmount mostly by hand on my Hunt Superdura.
  
• TRP Hy-Rd are very likely to give up the ghost for no specific reason. One of mine did that after 3000 km. Went full hydraulic, but that required me to file down the ends of the cable stops so I could run the hose cleanly to the back (this wouldn't be necessary with the grvl 520 model which has full length cable outers). There's no space to use these little screw-on hose adapters. PM on the back meant I had to buy a BR-RS785 on top of the second-hand FM brake and levers I found.
  
• QR is not a problem in itself, but it means you'll have to buy adapters were you to replace the shitty OEM wheels with more modern ones.
  
• They're fairly hefty. In size L, mine weighs 12 kg. Admittedly it's equipped for rando (mudguards, aerobars and dynamo lights), but it's fitted with decent (albeit not super lightweight) components : 105 hydraulic, Thomson seatpost, 3T stem, non-padded SMP, GP5000, Hunt Superduras. I reckon it'd still weigh around 10.5 kg were I to remove the mudguards, the aerobars, and go tubeless.
  
• If you wanna actually do muddy rides, tyre clearance is very limited in the 700c model : you'll fit non-knobbly 38s with no space for mud (nor mudguards, of course), maximum.