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Interesting as that has not been my experience at all! Would be nice to have some more anecdata from other people.

How did you do that? I tried the standard technique (pull the edges away to reduce radius) without any success on a destroyed one, and I wasn't being cautious. I emailed Berthoud about that and they told me it was normal, that (contrary to alu ones) stainless steel mudguards couldn't be re-radiused by hand, and that I'd probably need auto-body mechanics' tools to do so.

I have a dead TRP HyRd caliper. It's making a plasticky noise when actuating the lever, as if the bladder was broken. Nothing weird happened to it, it did a bit less than 3k km and just stopped working. Out of warranty, of course.

I would like to see if it's repairable in hopes of selling the calipers as a pair, but I can't find any good tutorial about it. Should I just empty it, open everything (pistons and tank) and go from there?

Keep in mind this Weigle tutorial is for alu mudguards @kvragu. I could not re-radius my Berthoud mudguards for instance (and Berthoud says this is normal for stainless steel mudguards).

Denting the sides might also prove difficult, though it is fairly different from re-radiusing. Now that I think of it, I have actually dented a Berthoud mudguard by jamming my foot between the downtube and the mudguard.

Sold mine for 150€ a few years back with a creaky BB and destroyed crankset threads. Wish I hadn't everytime I see one, it was the bike that got me into bike commuting, but I didn't (and still don't) have the space to keep it.

Please keep the praise on the down low so I can buy one for cheap in a few years 😬

🥲

The only thing that's happening in this living room is vacuuming, and a fan the diameter of a bike wheel blowing on the bike when I'm on the trainer. Guess I will have to sew some disc caliper socks to put on them while the bike is on the trainer...

Thanks @Howard, I will check the back of the pads for fluid thoroughly, though the rear caliper has less than 3k km on it. What's the good option when you want to use mineral oil, Hope calipers?

Sorry for the late reply! Yes, it does sound like they're contaminated, but I have no clue how it could have happened.

Can dust contaminate pads? That's the only theory I have given the circumstances. Both times this happened, my bikes were sitting in my living room in a dusty and humid apartment. If I have to replace a 40€ set of pads every time my bike sits on the trainer for more than a month, it's gonna become expensive really quickly. A rim brake frame seems tempting but alas I need 30mm tyres and mudguards.

It is not a leaky piston issue as both front and rear got the same issue, though I'll double-check that there's no oil on the calipers.

For cleaning, do you think isopropyl alcohol on the rotors will suffice? I'm worried I might not clean the rotors well enough and they might re-contaminate the new pads.

Because I'm an idiot who does everything last minute, I had the displeasure of finding out that both my hydraulic brakes were completely ineffective on the start day for PBP.

This was after the bike had been left on my home trainer for ~2 months. The brakes were squealing if I squeezed the levers to hard, and could only slow me down, at best. The rear brake started functioning almost properly again after ~20 km, but the front brake only got slightly better over the course of PBP, and is still squealing.

This is the second time this happens, on different bikes (first bike had GRX Di2, this one has 105 levers with a mix of calipers, 105 in the front, BR-RS785 in the back) in different apartments. I was running resin pads both times though. I don't think it's a bleeding issue, as the levers still feel relatively stiff.

1°) Does anyone have any idea why this happens?
2°) Is there any way to fix it now without changing the rotors and the pads?
3°) How can I fix it before going on a ride? Or how can I make sure it doesn't happen when I take the bike of the trainer before putting the wheel back in (e.g. clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol maybe?)?

Somebody called?

My favorite one, if anybody knows the builder let us know :)

Thanks a lot, "carrier frame" were the keywords I was missing apparently! Lots of options, it seems that there might be some that work perfectly out of the box, and if not, it looks easy enough (and safe enough, don't want to loose my teeth) to mod.

Is there a nice way to use an Ortlieb pannier on the front carrier block?

I'm currently commuting on a 90s MTB and would love to replace my pannier with the Ortlieb Vario PS. However, I plan on replacing that commuter with a Brompton when I am employed again. I don't think it'd be smart to spend almost 200€ for a backpack/pannier if I cannot use it when I do the switch.

It's hard to find detailed pictures online of the side of the carrier block that's attached to the bags, so I'm unsure how thick it is, how it works, etc...
What I currently have in mind is a metal frame that the Ortlieb could clip onto, and that would be sufficiently thin to stay permanently attached to the Ortlieb (even in backpack mode), not the Brompton. Of course, if I could find something like this off the shelf, it'd be great.

Using a rear rack would be the simplest solution, but I'm not a fan of the look, and I would love to build a WW-ish (at least weight-conscious) Brompton.

That's good to know, I've burst the bladder of my GRX Di2 lever when I fell, it has long been replaced but I still have the old one, I will see if it's repairable.

On the topic of Di2 (from a few pages ago), I must be one of the few people who has downgraded from GRX Di2 to 105 R7000 while still having no regrets.

Shifting quality is not the argument to differentiate the two I believe. As long as there's a significant price gap between the two ( which seems to be reducing, in part due the increase in price of mechanical groupset unfortunately), I'd much rather put the ~ 400£ difference in clothing and luggage, it'll make a way bigger impact for my enjoyment of the bike, imo.

Bump, still looking!

Ah, I had the exact same conundrum 2 weeks ago. Ended up taking a T20 and a T25 key (I don't have a multitool, I prefer standalone keys for ease of use and access), it worked fine.

I had to adjust the angle of the light in the middle of the night, it didn't move afterwards, you don't need a huge amount of torque so the T20 is fine.

Thanks everyone for the good advice and sorry for the late reply, I was out riding this week-end, for once. (Thanks for the link @Tijs, that's the one I read a while ago but couldn't find it again).

I think my strategy will be to buy some XT skewers for now to have something 100% reliable (just wish I could find some second hand, but the rear probably requires a 173 mm QR, which might be a pain to find), and then start looking at allen key skewers.

Indeed, I weighed my Pitlock skewers, and they're 41g for the front, 48g for the rear, so lighter than the XT ones. I would like to find something equivalent but for an allen key, as I don't need security skewers on audaxes and opening Pitlocks is kind of a faff.

Any recommandations for allen key skewers or are they all pretty much the same? There are these BBB ones on Bike24, CrMo axles and aluminum ends, I guess that's the best kind?

I need to find a pair of QR skewers for an endurance bike with hydraulic brakes.

Criteria are, in order of priority :
1°) great wheel retention
2°) low weight

I've been told to avoid lightweight skewers and stick with internal cam ones, Shimano for instance.
In terms of wheel retention, is there any difference between the very expensive Dura Ace ones, and the lowly XT?
Rating is not good for the XT, but nobody reviewed the Dura Ace.

More generally, any specific model to recommend that's still available?
I would also be happy with ones that need an allen key or something, I don't particularly care about the "quick-release" aspect.

Ah yeah that makes sense, thanks!

Thanks a lot! I looked it up before asking, but browsing insta without an account is hell, I gave up as there was no mention of the Lite in the first few posts.

Video also doesn't show v-brakes mounts. It seems strange not to have exactly the final product if it's on a testing rig, no?

Has such a thing been announced?

It fits all my criteria, however price is steep, and I'm not a huge fan of the look. I would buy one second-hand though, if someone has that!

edit : Just saw you had one for sale. Unfortunately at that price I'm gonna get destroyed by taxes and transporter fees. Good luck with the sale!

Current headset (KCNC PT1767D) has the same stack as a Cane Creek 40 (28 mm, doesn't seem there's a lot of variations with EC headsets unfortunately), and I do have a BMX stem installed.

Unfortunately this means the bike is slightly too short, and my handlebar selection too limited. At least - thanks to you! - the bike is being used, it's just that I'm not comfy yet!

If I got a zero stack headset cover machined I could mayyybe get 32 mm of steerer above the headset (28 mm currently with everything stock), but from what I understand it still wouldn't be enough to use a standard ahead stem safely?

Alas, the steerer of the P2 I bought from @Alban on here is 1 cm too short for me to use a standard ahead stem.

I'm thus after another fork :

• for 26" wheels
  
• v-brakes
  
• with mudguard mounts
  
• axle-to-crown around 400 mm, give or take 10 mm (I just don't want suspension corrected forks, basically)
  
• and, most importantly, a steerer that's at least 22 cm long.
  
  

Now for the difficult part : no unicrown with curved blades. Unicrown with straight blades is perfectly fine, anything else (lugged, segmented, etc...) is also good, straight blades or not.

(aaand I live in France, so shipping would be necessary).

Thanks in advance!

Racktime Light It 26" will fit on a 700c wheel perfectly, is 40€ and 480g when using a single strut. Love mine.