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I have personally repainted a bike once (although I sort of regret not keeping the original scheme).

I used paint stripper for the most part, together with some high grit sandpaper to get every bit of paint off. The tubes are easy to do, the hard part are the areas around the lugs and the tight corners. I reapplied paint stripper there. Worked out reasonably well, although I'm sure that I can find imperfections. The thing is that painting over an imperfection does not remove the imperfection, unless you ise some thick primer that also fills and you sand a whole lot more.

As for the paint I did also do the whole 2k primer / colour / 2k clearcoat thing. Just make sure to apply very thin layers, it's a pain because it takes a long time, but the end result is worth the patience. One defect I noticed only after all the apint dried, is that one of the tubes did not have the same number of clearcoat layers as the rest of the tubes. You have to have a mental map of where you sprayed, because you don't necessarily see the difference between your previous layer and your new layer, and you don't want to risk over spraying and getting paint runs.

All in all, I have wondered if it was cost effective. Paint stripper was very helpful, if I were to remove allt he paint by sanding, it would have taken ages.
You also have to have the correct environment to paint in, I sprayed outside because I'm a cheapskate and didn't want to buy a mask. Very stupid. Just buy a mask, even if you paint outside. You also need the right temperature for your paint to dry. That's all fine and dandy if you have a spray room, can be tricky if you don't.

After the paint dried, I sanded back to bare metal the dropouts, where the axle is tightened to the frame, because the paint would otherwise chip. Same with the BB area, sanded that back too.

In the end I'm pleased with the result, although I want to experiment with a multicoloured frame next. Also, I did not do anything with branding or decals and I regret it a bit. That would definitely add complexity.

I'd share some pictures, but I'm currently on holiday and don't have access to either the bike nor the pictures I took when I did the paint job

What fork is that on the pink bike?
And do you have any idea on what the total weight of the bike is?

Thank you all for your responses by the way

It sounds like the 5610 is the one to get.
I don't really care about fancy features or Bluetooth connectivity. I'm looking for a solid and reliable timekeeper that I can wear all the time. I can find the GW-M5610U-1 where I'm from (Belgium). I didn't even know about the solar charging but that's a huge plus.

Additional questions:
Is there modding for these watches?
Does the watch mentioned above have a beep? I don't want it to make unbearable noise when I don't ask for it. I don't want an alarm to go off ever, I have my phone for that.
What does the "-1" mean at the end of the name? I find that these names are so confusing

Does anyone own a Gshock DW5600 or similar style of square Gshock ? Looking to buy one for a watch I can wear when doing manual work

Does anyone have suggestions for -17° 9 or 10cm stems? I'm having trouble finding any that are not from AliExpress

Does Rossin still make bikes? I can't find any official website, but there is a guy on my local second hand site that is selling a carbon "Rossin Record"
I can't find any reference on the internet to a Rossin record.
(also, hi sir, if you are the one that posted this bike on the second hand site :^) )

This might have already been said before, but why exactly is the rear triangle detachable? Is it to be able to transport it more easily?

Related to that, doe anyone know if the CAAD10 has a straight steerer or a tapered one?

I would like to slam the stem on my CAAD10. I however don't know what kind of headset I should buy, or if I can easily just buy another top cap or something.
Any suggestions?

I might be going abroad for a while and will need to buy a laptop.
After I finished university, I gifted my ThinkPad to my sister who is about to start her university studies.
I now only have a desktop. In my opinion, it is superior to a laptop in many ways. Better cooling, better modularity, more powerful for less money...
But now that I plan to be on the road for a while, I will kind of need a laptop.
I game occatioanlly, playing things like League of legends, Minecraft, Hearthstone, Overwatch, Pubg, Fortnite...
Other things I use my computer for is mostly coding, so compilation of programs.

There are two laptops I had my eye on.
Asus Zephyrus M16
Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme Gen5

Both because they have 16 inch displays. Frankly, I think the best display to have is a 27 inch 1440p display. But again, being on the road this is not possible. I want as large a display as possible without the laptop being unweildy and not fitting into a standard backpack.

I like the huge trackpad on the Zephyrus but dislike all the rest of the styling (for sure that AnimeHentai crap on the back, like that's cool and all, but give me the option to have a plain backpanel).

I like the Lenovo for all other things. 16 inch, 2560x1600 display, good build quality (I've had a ThinkPad in the past, and from what the internet tells me, these things seem to have a cult following).
Upgradable storage, upgradable RAM.
I would spec it with an RTX 3060, but I wonder how good a 3050Ti performs? Does anyone have any idea?
The keyboard on Thinkpads are also awesome. Big plus from me.
In general, it also has a business easthetic.

I guess what I'm looking for is a 16 inch laptop, Windows, durable (so not plastic body), powerfull laptop. Max budget is 3000 euros, but less is of course nicer.
Are there some interesting laptops I'm missing?

I know Razer has the 16 inch thing, but it's too expensive IMO. Same thing with the Dell XPS15, crazy expensive for what you get.

Adding a remark; I wonder if there is no AMD offering with the same specs I describe. This would help on battery life

Gorgeous work. I wish I could build myself and my friends some bikes. Seems to me like a priceless skill to have. I hope I get into doing something like it one day.

Oh man that worked like a charm! I thought I'd drilled through it, but the leftover threaded insert just came out. Thanks

The back has some sort of a cap that's not part of the threaded insert

I could drill through all of that I guess

I bought a second hand derailleur and I now see that the barrel adjuster is missing. Moreover, I think the barrel adjuster actually broke off.
Any suggestions on how to get that crap out?

Me and a friend of mine, somewhere in the Ardèche, this summer, at sunrise.

Can't wait to subscribe

Thank you all for the feedback.

I think I fixed the BDHU now. Also, cut the stem as you can see. I have looked for a compression sleeve on the internet but couldn't find one for a 1-inch steerer. I guess I could fabricate or 3Dprint something but for now, I reused the starnut that came with the fork when I bought it second hand. I'm not that worried about cracking it. If worst comes to worst, I'll get a straight blade steel fork.

About the aesthetically pleasing cranks; yes, I do agree to a certain extent. They are a little too fat and contrast the slim tubes of the frame. I looked around my parts bin (or maybe rather 'trash bin') and found some old (worn out) chainrings. I kind of like the look of both of them. The thing is that I'd like to get a 50 tooth, and I don't have easy access to a DA7800 50T chainring. Black chainrings could also look interesting indeed. I don't have any 130BCD black chainrings to test that though (maybe I could spray paint one of my spare chainrings).

The stem is 80mm. I don't think I'd enjoy riding a 100mm stem. I had a 53 cm frame before with a 90mm stem and I felt like I had to reach way too far. This is a 51cm frame (measured seat tube-headtube). I do agree that It would probably look better, yes.

Related to that is a more compact handlebar. Here I have yet some more challenges. This is a Deda Piega and when I measure its dimensions, it has 80mm reach and 130mm drop. I don't really know of many handlebars that are smaller than that. I guess that Nitto probably makes some 70mm/125mm handlebars...
I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for 48 or 49 cm frames so that I can have a normal length stem. I really hate the fact that I'm so short haha.

The seat post looks chonky, yes. I'd like to buy a seat post with 0mm of setback in the future.

Another idea I had is to get a silver stem, seat post and handlebars, and to change the bar tape to a light colour. The reason I'm reluctant to change thatbecause like this, I feel like the black paint around the headtube and the black forks really make a black cockpit an obvious choice. A glossy black stem is another idea.

AAAALSO; I'd love some 50mm carbon rims because these rims are the cheapest Shimano ones I picked up second hand, again. I don't want to spend crazy money on bikes but I'd still like to enjoy them to the maximum, that's why basically all of the parts on this bike are second hand (apart from the headset, BB, cables and cable stoppers, seat post and stem). Carbon rims are sadly heckin' expensive

Roast me, please. I feel like something is off on my build. Don't entirely like the look of it. I guess cutting the steerer will be an improvement. On that note, where do you all reckon I can find a steerer star nut thingy. I've been looking around on the internet but couldn't really find anything.
I really really liked that Colnage that @Flandria posted recently. This just looks silly in comparison.
Another thing I don't really like about my bike, a small 51cm frame, is that the handlebars feel like they almost hit the tyres so to speak. It's inherent to the bike, but I dislike it.
Maybe the cranks are too fat? Maybe it's the mismatch between Shimano and Sram?
(I love riding it though)

What chainrings are that? I have Dura Ace cranks and am looking for a replacement. I guess these look similar to Stronglite CT2's (the ones I was potentially going to buy).

I'm loving the look though

Jezus man, that looks nice. Do you have your own thread? You made this bike yourself, didn't you?

Yooo that front light mount is siiick

Hi all,
I'm thinking about getting into mountain biking and I don't know if I will like it, nor if I will do it a lot.
I wanted to buy a second hand bike and got my eye in a cheap Wilier 18 Carati. It's from 2008 or something, had 26 inch wheels (v brake, but there are dis brake tabs) and it has a seized front shock
The bike looks pretty shitty tbh but it's relatively cheap (like less then 100 euros).
Do you all reckon I should go ahead and buy it, maybe upgrade the groupset and convert to disk brake? Or would it be a better idea to get a newer 27.5 or 29er?

What is all the rage with Chris King headsets? They're so expensive and I'm wondering if a sealed bearings FSA or Cane Creek headset is qualitatively worse. If I'm not mistaken, both FSA and Cane Creek make 1 inch threadless headsets for around 50 quid

🤤

I reckon te rims look good