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if you can source the materials cheaper, you can build them yourself. the DT Swiss TRC 1400 track wheelset for example are about 1560 € at bike24, but the DT Swiss track hubs can be found relatively cheap. maybe ask in the orient express thread for some rated rims
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/185341/newest/

the new wheelset is gonna look ACE. A friend has the same 808 rims and he described them as "commuter-friendly", wich is a bit of a stretch eh. are you going for bladed spokes?

you remove the QR from the axle. one side of the axle should face upward/to you, the hub-bearing covers are removed so that you can see your red rubber bearing covers. now hold the hubshell firmly in one hand and hit the axle with a mallet. you should see the opposite bearing coming out of the hubshell with each hit. repeat until axle with bearing falls out. remove bearing from axle, re-insert the axle in hub, remove other side bearing.

it's both, makino is a reputable NJS framebuilder, and with the sug75 cranks it is already HHSB by numbers. bonus points for a frame that gets actively ridden and is not just a wallhanger

looks like alu rims painted / sharpied black

welcome and have a great time!

very nice day indeed! was nice to see minihulsroy bike in real life and not just on a screen

nothing really new, steamroller is on some platform pedals, nothing else has changed. did a nice group ride to Gorinsee and Liepnitzee.

can confirm that the required tool X94 is super rare but you can adjust the headset with a strap wrench.

those ultra rare big njs frames were most probably built for non-japenese riders in a keirin series. the japanese invite (or invited? i don't know if it's still a big thing nowadays) some of the best global riders for their international keirin series every year. these riders will get a bespoke frame to their specs, and every now and then someone just wants another frame, for training, or another paintjob... this looks like one of these frames, once built, never ridden, packed away...

looks (dura)ace with black cranks ! I'll see myself out :)

looks like a "normal" toothed ring to me, they tend to drop the chain when you ride them very cross-chained. most folks would use a narrow-wide chainring for 1x12 that "holds" the chain a bit better at agressive angles, bc the teeth are shaped more sophistically. I don't think your bolts will shear off.

sounds doable. the difference of 1,5mm should be small enough to not cause any trouble. tools wise, I think you are more than sorted.

bike wise a very aesthetic period (we did a family trip to the pyrenees in 2003 to watch some mountain stages of the tour) but that picure must contain very large amounts of doping :)

nice to see this thingy rolling! yeah the seatposts are thrash, 25 mm diameter or something.

that sounds fantastic! I'll mark the date

Krabo lopro, looks like Air tubeset

when you're mingling other bars in, you can change the tape to black, too: )

hey man, here ( https://velo-classic.de/oxid2/Fahrrad-oxid/Steuersaetze/Steuersatz-RENAK-IFA-verchromt-orig-alter-DDR-Bestand-auch-fuer-30-50er-J-NSU-passend.html ) is original headset, as they use different threads you need original stuff or another fork to make it work

great to hear.

so here's a catalogue from 2007
https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_294_Katalog_Laufr%C3%A4der_Campagnolo_2007.pdf

an here from 2004 (see from page 52)
https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_298_Katalog_Campagnolo_2004.pdf

I can't really tell a difference, the catalogues say that later models have lighter alu freehub bodies and lighter nuts on the axle, but the hub bodies look the same.
I think the later models had the asymmetrical rear rim, but thats just a wild guess. so if your rear rim is syymetrical, means its older model.

pop off one of the dustcaps and check the number written on the bearing itself. it should be something like "6000 RS" or "6001 2RS". I couln't find the info online, too

thought I'm gonna share my orlowski. it was super cheap on german kleinanzeigen bc a partially knackered thread in the bb. fiddled with some bb's I had in the parts bin and seems to be rock solid now with a token square taper. forks are 1 " ahead with shim

yes, you could do the ds with thicker spokes and the nds with the slimmer ones, eg. d-light and laser, or other combinations, e.g. DT competition ds and DT revolution nds, but with your 80kg I think its not neccecary for a road wheelset. looks cool tho
I have a friend with 95kg and he rides cx-rays in his rear wheel with 24 spokes. so far nothing exploded

2x seems sufficient/no need for another pattern and for road use you can go aero (sapim cx-ray or similar bladed spokes) or use double butted spokes a la dt revolution or sapim laser.