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Agreed that it doesn't sound like the trousers are necessarily the problem. Probably do a similar amount of commuting and always in casualwear and have probably gone through two or three pairs of trousers in twice that many years, and most of them were probably reasonably worn to begin with, or too tight to be sensibly cycling in..

@edavies94 when your trousers wear through is it a thinning of the fabric or a rip? My trousers that die generally do so ripping from being too stretched out by a wider range of movement than they were designed for, rather than worn down by friction/chafing..

Completely get you - my words to my partner were 'use that one because the other ones have to be washed and dried immediately'. But 'that one' happens to be a Shibata 210 so it doesn't get as much use because of size (and I have a low-level fear of it getting chipped).. I've always been meaning to get a SS petty but feels hard to justify when we already have something that does the job! Also got given a fat carbon steel small petty/large paring which feels nigh-on indestructible and has taken on a patina real quick and that one has ended up seeing the most use because it doesn't have to be babied so hey ho.

@user155490 honesukis are usually poultry knives but they're also usually SB so I imagine what he's got there could probably be thought of more like a workhorse petty..

I would think so, though if you're using ground coffee not sure how much you can save (then again you could argue the other way and if you're using ground coffee you want all the marginal gains you can get). Light degradation is a thing, but also you can't squeeze all the air out of a glass jar the way you can an opaque bag - not sure if that affects rate of oxidation (which is the other thing that damages coffee quality) but can't hurt?

Why would you need a santoku, bunka and petty all pretty much the same size, and add a similarly-sized honesuki into the mix..? I guess you've got differences in heel height but I can't think of many times I'd reach for the two things which sit between the gyuto's height and length or the petty.. Is your honesuki single bevelled? Interesting that that can be come the daily driver.

Also, how's the strength of that bamboo magnet strip? I have a zyliss wood one which is temperamental because the magnets are spaced out at intervals, and it really doesn't play nice with my heavier knives..

For scales I'd recommend either buying the cheap stuff (<15) or get something actually decent (but will cost more). Have bought the former twice (in multiple guises) and had both fail on me after a year and a bit (hot liquid, spills, etc - not unexpected); now have a Timemore and hopefully it'll go for longer (but only had it for a couple of months so time will tell). The increased sensitivity is a massive plus though, in addition to my hoped-for longevity.

Pretty apocalyptic report from AXA re. long-term flood and climate risk, long story short London is pretty at risk (anyone knows how to get some underlying data on this stuff without a consultancy at your disposal?) - https://www.insurancebusinessmag.com/uk/news/environmental/majority-of-the-uk-unprepared-for-climaterelated-damage--axa-515633.aspx.

Report can be found here.

Some sellers in Billingsgate also operate on a wholesale only basis - plenty of people selling fish by the box. Smithfields did have far more wholesale-only sellers (i.e. whole primal) vs sellers who had portioned down for consumers, though, so that's probably where your impression came from! Definitely did have some stalls that operated almost like delis though.

You can tho.

Assuming you're talking about grind by time/weight, grind by time works best if you generally use the same type of beans and use them fairly quickly (I find myself having to tighten grind as my beans age across the course of two weeks which will throw off your set timings if you want a constant weight out).

If you're going for GBW, as previously discussed you have a choice of the Sette 270Wi, Eureka Libra, maybe a Fiorenzato also around 500gbp, and everything else is going to be pretty expensive.. Have heard adjusting the grind settings on the Eureka can only be done with motor running which will waste beans if you want to keep hopper full. Sette Wi aside, most of the low-retention grinders tend to be single dose/non-weighing. I will always recommend the Sette but it can be noisy plus you have to be willing to change out the gearbox once every few years (though Baratza is good with spare parts!).

Would you sell the spacers separately? My LBS has lost their saw and I need something to go on my steerer.

German stainless is generally known for being soft - have a Henckels 4star that I use for bashing shells, softer bone and things I don't want to subject harder knives to. First I've heard of German stainless being hard (and all things considered hard =/= wear resistant, and from my experience softer stainless is usually more annoying to sharpen..)

Hoovering the hopper and chute every morning sounds like cleaning and faff.

Why 300 more than on your website?

Anyone happen to have a single-shot 58mm basket kicking around that you no longer want? Gave mine away but recently got it in my head to try single shot espresso brewing..

it's high end artisan shit for me only

That's the thing that puzzled me, I tried that (well not removed but the limit screw was well backed out) and it didn't seem to go any further than what's in the picture now, though the chain was in third at that point so maybe that got in the way of me moving it back and forth. FDs should be fairly straightforward things, this one just seems not to want to cooperate and I know some FDs can be tricky to set up (converter position etc.) so I wanted to check if there were known nits with the triple shimano ones!

@snottyotter didn't realise the two could interact but he was dropping his chain off the small ring so I had tightened the L limit screw a few turns and it was fairly inwards by that point. Almost seems like the DS crank is too far outboard actually. Are these ever installed with spacers? Definitely didn't see one between the BB and the frame.

I just changed out his chain, rings don't seem sharktoothed, and yes definitely a triple shifter - it does click up to the middle ring then clicks up (not the trim) again, just not enough! Groupset seems to be original to the bike but got it secondhand so clearly been monkeyed around with.

I think from memory the cable may have been incorrectly routed (to left side of pinch bolt rather than to the right) and have asked my friend to try that and report back. But am pessimistic given that manually pushing the derailleur didn't seem to be able to move it any further out, nor did pushing further on the shifter (my 2x shifter has some give past the top gear)..

FD-4703

Sorry, was referring to the groupset generically and yes it is a 4703 with the bigger cage - it shifts up twice (you can see the large chainring lined up in the middle of the cage in the photos) but the second upshift just doesn't seem to be able to push the chain up.

On second thought, would turning the whole mech (it is band-on) so that the tail of the cage points further outwards help? Wonder if the issue is that the cage may not be perfectly parallel with the chainring (or going further, if it being slightly skewed towards the outside of the bike might help with shifting).

Anyone worked with a FD4700 before with a triple front? Was helping a friend with his bike and can’t get this to shift into the largest chainring with the high limit backed out all the way, and feels almost like the derailleur doesn’t go far out enough (I tried moving it manually to see if it was a cable tension thing) and have no idea why. Pictures show the FD when at max.

I think stainless/non-stainless is pretty key requirement for some when it comes to knives particularly how he's describing his care regimen.

Does layering gloves help with keeping warmer for longer? Was thinking of buying a pair of large ski gloves and then wearing some soft wool gloves under that like a liner..

Thanks everyone for the input! I Replaced both inners and outers, for the avoidance of doubt. No tight bends in the cabling (tightest is probably the bit going into the RD) but the cabling out front is probably longer than it should be + it's a tandem so maybe I'll try to shorten the cabling and see if that cuts down a bit of friction at least. Will then try penetrating oil on the derailleurs but otherwise parts washer sounds like the way to go!

I am a big fan of 'if it works it works' but I got annoyed at my cheap cleaver after a while because notwithstanding the fact that it was carbon steel it didn't sharpen easily, didn't have an even grind at the edge and didn't hold an edge for long. Still perfectly functional at the end of the day, just depends on whether your requirements are to get from A to B on a BSO or your preference is to get from A to B doing 20mph on something zippier..

@user155490 who in vietnam are you buying from? Presumably that's not a Daovua..

Cranks shifted elsewhere, pricedrops on everything else.

the customary classic M&S