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Nice ye this is my worry is the chainstays. I'm looking at tyres atm I'm thinking a 2.15 is not going to fit maybe a 2.0 will be my best bet then. They really don't have good clearance on the rear these muddy foxes

Love this. What size tyre you running on here?

My fork and headset sitch is all sorted now

Yes sir

My other option, which in hindsight will be far more practical than using the star nut would be to use a Hope Head Doctor, similar to the fsa bung someone mentioned in your thread.

Ah right I see. I'm glad to hear mate bling is important! haha

Here we go..
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/332109/

I'm not the only person to try this. @BigglesZX made a post a couple years ago with this exact issue, which he seemed to remedy quite nicely.

She's back from the LBS and starting to resemble what looks like a bike. Bottom bracket and headset fitted done.

Picked up a pair of black 26 rims off FMP for £10. Yes £10. Well aware they're likely garbage but I couldn't say no for that price even if I never use them. Trying to find a 650b wheel set was becoming a nightmare and actually I think 26" with chunky tyres will look sweet.
I've got a set of 105 Shimano hubs to lace to these rims, which I'll either have a crack at myself or take them back to the LBS when I get some time. Silver wheel just for display as the black wheel axle is too large for these forks. Also stuck the bars on from my fixed gear to see how they look. I've got another set of risers on the way.

Picked up a SLX M7000 drive train off ebay for a decent price. So far just got the crankset one there, however as I've gone to fit the rear derailleur I've realised the threads are packed with paint >:(. Another fault of my own for forgetting to mention to the paint shop.

Now here's the big problem...

So the headset is threadless and the fork is threaded. Not an issue if you use a shim and install a star fangled nut into the steerer as I did so on my fixed gear bike. However the steerer is too short so I bought a quill stem adaptor. I wasn't really sure how this was going to work until I could look at it all together. The problem is I can secure the adaptor just fine but without being able to preload the headset bearings. After watching some youtube videos, the plan is now to connect the adaptor to the steerer by dropping a flange nut down the top and fastening the wedge using a shorter M8 bolt. Then installing the star fangled nut into the adaptor and hey presto extended steerer. However, I have 2 adaptors the first was a 22.2mm - 28.5mm, which would have been fine but because I'm "permanently" securing the adaptor to the steerer I would have never been able to remove the forks from the frame itself as it's too large to fit through the head tube. This second adaptor is a 22.2mm - 25.4mm so I'm able to secure it whilst still being able to remove the forks when needs be. But this adaptor, unlike the larger, wouldn't allow the flange nut to sit in there. I plan to take it down the mechanics and have them drill out the inner diameter to fit this nut in there, which should then allow enough room for the star fangled nut. "Buy some new forks" I hear you say, ye that may have been an easier route but I had these painted now so I'm working through it. It's a labour of love this bike building business. Never as straight forward as you envision it to be. I understand this isn't the most exciting of topics, but in the case of someone else being in a similar situation they may find this helpful.

What size tyre are you running on the back?

So I tried the mt800 on a old Dawes frame I had lying around and they went in no problem. This was the frame I took the old bb cups from which worked on the MF. So looks like I'm headed to the bike shop

Ye if you can see in the picture bb mt800 counterclockwise arrow for the drive side

RJ the bike guy shows you how to make a chasing tool using the old BB. I'm going to give this a try and if all else fails bike shop it is

Well it is a British bike and by my understanding BSA standards means the left side tightens clockwise and the right side tightens counterclockwise which it does

This is the bb 'English Thread' > https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-mt800-mtb-bottom-bracket/rp-prod135826

By cleaning I mean I scraped all the debris/paint out of all the threads and as I mentioned before the old bb cups thread in by hand with no issue so it is a bit strange. I know it wouldn't hurt to get them chased at the LBS but if the old bb is going in no problem then its odd as to why this new one won't budge. I'll see what the bike shop have to say thanks for your help mate!

I’ve spent the last hour or so meticulously cleaning the threads. There is no issue with the older bb both sides thread in nice and smooth but this Shimano doesn’t want to go. And I don’t want to force it just incase I do some damage

Thats a bargain! I’ll speak to my LBS see what they’ll charge.

Another day another problem. Bottom bracket doesn’t want to fit. My only thought would be the threading is different on the Shimano. Is this common with newer bbs? As you can see from the pictures, they’re both the same size as the precious bb but only threads in about 1mm. Not my luck

Is 0.3mm a deal breaker or can these be stuffed in some how?

So finally got the frame back from powder coating and I’ve run into my first major issue. About 5 attempts down the line I was wondering why the headset cup wouldn’t go in straight. Turns out I’ve bought the wrong one which is an ISO standard and I need a JIS. Frustrating but that’s my mistake I’ll have to put this one up on classifieds and try find a replacement.

These are so cool. Putting an order in for a feed bag :)

Frame is in for powder coating at the moment so I've been ordering parts and I'm getting to the drivetrain.

Got a Shimano 11 speed 11-42 cassette on the way but haven't a clue what type of rear derailleur I'm going to need. Long? medium? short? clutch? Planning on a single ring up front likely 40/42.

With this I'm guessing any 11 speed trigger/rapidfire shifter will do right?

Ye had a little up and down the road before I stripped it. Fits great.

Crap indeed.

Thing is these have a 9mm axle which is what I need. I would have to cold set to 135mm though or use some spacers. I know I'm making things hard on myself but if all else fails then I can find some 26".

I've managed to find some 26" and 27.5" rims. Can someone tell me why these are so cheap? What's that catch?

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/search?Ntt=v+brake+wheel