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Does the tool above work to tighten the cog as @Tijs described and the lock ring as well?
Any videos out there explaining out to do this?

What kind of tool do I need for that?

I don't know, how can I tell it is the rear cog unscrewing? And how do I fix that?

I checked this video's instructions looking for a stiff link and couldn't find any https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hklVw3KErKw

I got a relatively new bike and I noticed the chain skips occasionally when starting up (from a traffic light stop) or when skidding (more often when I try to skid to the least comfortable side, I'm not an ambidextrous skidder but trying to learn).
I cleaned my chain thoroughly and tensioned it, there is a tiny bit of play but it is tight at the tightest spot and still get occasional skipping.
Could someone please help me diagnose the problem?
Using Alpine chainring and cog 47/17 and Izumi super tough chain. I got a parktool chain checker and the chain has not stretched.

Thanks.

It doesn't slip or click, it is tight all the way. I find it odd that all 3 pieces of the 2 sets I ordered are broken. The instructions advise not to try to unscrew bolts with the torqbits on as it can damage the mechanism. Maybe these are returned sets where the customer damaged the bits and they are trying to sell to the next idiot.

The problem is the torqbar simply doesn't click no matter how much torque I apply.

Tried it multiple times and over torqued but no click.

I got the nano torqbar dx from wiggle and when I tried it with all the torqbits 4, 5 and 6nm I couldn't hear the audible click they mention in the instructions. I have another torque wrench which I used to tighten the bolt and it works fine. So I returned it thinking it was probably a returned item that someone damaged (the box was not sealed).

I ordered again from Sigma Sports and the same thing happens! Again the box was not sealed but I am starting to think either I'm deaf or I'm doing something wrong. What are the chances of getting a defective item twice in a row. Does anyone have this tool and had the same issue?

Cool thanks. It looks like it would be slightly big for 5'7 guy.

Geometry measurements?

Yeah, even the best fail (watch at 0m45s) https://vimeo.com/186141#t=0m45s

It looks like bailing out safely when you skid with one leg to the opposite side of the skidding leg is going to be impossible.

cool, is that you?

Go for it, I was happy with the result https://lfgss.microcosm.app/api/v1/files/c678d9fce375f18439bc4a4aa6121eb1a5cb088c.jpg
The fork is carbon and it can't be powder coated, according to Steve, so there is a slight difference in the shade, but looks cool.

I am learning to do leg over skids for fun :) Brake levers with hoods would get in the way I think. Also I almost always ride on the tops, except to give my palms some rest I change positions briefly.

I ended up getting the specialized hover bar and 80mm stem instead of the 90mm. This gave me some extra stack and less reach. Not the prettiest but it is a bit more comfortable.
This is a nice tool to compare different stems and how they affect stack and reach: http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

When I am riding and look down I can partially see the front hub, with the other stem (90mm) it would be covered. Rule of thumb says on a properly fitted bike you should not be able to see the front hub?

One factor I underestimated was the stiffness of a triple butted aluminium track frame such as the Dolan PC. The amount of vibrations it transmits is really noticeable comparing to a chromoly 4130 frame.

I posted a photo a few posts above. I may take a few more shots tomorrow

Those riser drop bars look interesting. Thanks! I was looking at the difference between a PC 50 frame and 52. It is mainly the stack that increases a bit. The reach is almost the same. So it means that probably I could achieve the same adjustment by raising the handlebars either by getting a new fork with a longer steerer or these riser drops.
But only a bike fitting could tell me if I have a problem with reach as well.
Does anyone know if a bike fitting calculator could do the job?

I'm riding on the tops most of the time, so I guess flat bars won't make any difference?
I didn't know I could get a new fork with a longer steerer. Unfortunately Dolan doesn't show the specs for the fork https://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-carbon-road-deep-drop-winter-fork-matt-black/. How can I find a fork that is compatible with the PC frame but with a longer steerer? I suppose that will require additional spacers.

I already angled the bars up a bit. I think a raised stem looks ugly. I wonder if a 52 frame would be better because the head tube is 120mm instead of 105mm. I was convinced that frame size wouldn't matter that much when I got the 50. https://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-pre-cursa-aluminium-frameset/

The flipped Deda stem setup: https://photos.app.goo.gl/W87H3DX4y6YqFWqj8

I bought a frame which I suspect is too small for me (Dolan PC 50cm) while I'm 5'7, I've been having some handlebar palsy problems which means probably my weight is too forward.

I tried the following adjustments: raising the drop handlebars by flipping the stem so it is angled upwards, push my saddle back as far as it goes. I was thinking maybe a seatpost with a big setback (like the Nitto S84) but then I don't know what would be the effect on my knees... Unfortunately due to the coming lockdown my bike fitting session will be postponed so I would like to find a solution until then.

Is there a way to raise the handlebars further? It comes with 3 spacers but I guess if the head tube is too short there is not much you can do there? I was really enjoying drop bars but maybe they are not for me? Are there other types of stems that I could try? Currently using Deda Zero 100 and compact drops.

I don't have the other bike anymore. I bought a small frame size for the Dolan PC, I got a 50cm, while I'm 5'7. I think I also made the mistake of getting a stem size that is 1cm longer than the one that comes with the 50cm frame. I hope the bike fitter will fix these issues. But I start to think it could be a problem of too small frame size, as I don't think I could raise the handlebars more since the head tube is shorter on this frame. Perhaps a seatpost with bigger setback could help.

I was riding a chromoly 430 bike before and didn't have such issues. The Dolan PC is a triple butted aluminium frame and it is very stiff.