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That's what's known as 3 plate wiring (or loop in), see https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Lighting-Circuit-layouts . If you want to convert to a class 2 light fixture (i.e. double insulated so no earth required) which doesn't use the traditional ceiling rose then I think the easiest and safest option for a DIY-er is to use a Quickwire junction box (https://www.quickwire.co.uk/product/switch-load-16a/) to move all the connections up into the ceiling void and then just run a bit of twin and earth down into the new light fixture (obviously the earth core will be left unused). The Quickwire is much more expensive than a choc box or equivalent but it's a doddle to use and provides a maintenance free connection which is technically possibly required in this application. This is what I did when swapping our ceiling light fixtures. However, obviously if you're not confident/comfortable working with mains electrics then get a pro in.

Edit: exactly this: https://youtube.com/shorts/n36nVG8l8RE?si=JjeaMtZETe6YBGFf

Yep, certainly so. No idea why it was dumped though, hopefully nothing too nefarious....

Someone fly-tipped a 4m long metal ladder outside our house. It's seemingly in perfectly useable condition. I don't really want it but hopefully someone on here does! Based in SE15, unsurprisingly collection only.

Can anyone recommend a structural engineer (SE London) to do some basic calcs for removing a load-bearing wall?

I'm pretty sure that was a special colour so yeah they're prob old stock. You can do as you say to reduce weight but bare in mind that the carrier block is different on the electric so you couldn't use standard bags. You could swap that out too for a standard block obv but that would mean removing the wiring for the lights too as they're hard wired into the block.

After a pair of flat mount to post mount adapters (i.e. flat mount f+f, post mount calipers) for 160mm rotors please.

We're thinking about knocking a wall out in our Victorian terrace in SE15; anyone over this way have a builder they would recommend?

Wilson's in Ladywell is meant to be very good. Otherwise, Peckham way there's Peckham Bazaar, Kudu Grill and Levan which are all great.

Brilliant, thanks!

Filling nail head holes in raw wood; is it best too prime the wood then fill or fill then prime? Or does it make f all difference?

I installed the Vent Axia Svara as recommended by Charlie DIYte. The app seems like a gimmick but it's actually really useful for setting up as the fan has lots of different modes. It's also really easy to clean it out as you can take the fan unit out to access the duct.

But yeah I also use a squeegee and a Karcher window vac, which are far more effective at keeping moisture levels down than the fan.

Oh great, I'm Nunhead so will give you a DM.

Does anyone have a scrap (600 x 400ish min) of 12.5mm plasterboard going spare? Need to patch a hole and don't want to have to buy a full sheet and dispose of most of it? Similarly, if anyone has scraps of PIR hit me up, want to insulate our loft hatch. Can offer cash/beer/bike bits/tools in exchange!

Assuming you're just looking to stop draughts? In which case I bought a chimney sheep; easy to fit, does the job and a bit more green.

Dremels are super useful and they're way more capable than their size would suggest. I've somehow ended up with two so you're welcome to borrow/buy one. In SE15.

Can anyone recommend a carpenter south of the river? Have various tasks related to our wooden front door which I don't have the skills/tools/time for. Probably only a day of work for a professional.

Will take this if not yet claimed please. Would go nicely on top of the Asgard.

The highest quoted air flow I could find in a 100mm fan was the Vent Axia Svara at 110m3/h. It's expensive but I found one much cheaper on eBay. Has a lot of additional features which are nice to have and the mechanical design is actually really good, has a very good sealing gasket which was important for me as ours is very much in zone 1.

Threadlocker. Loctite 243 or equivalent.

We bought a used garden table and chairs which came with x6 chairs and we've decided we only need x4. They're very much used but still very solid, made from some form of redwood, I would guess eucalyptus. They're heavy, they fold up and the back angle is adjustable. They were not really well looked after by the original owners so they're a bit rough but they look mint once sanded back and oiled. These two are half sanded; I couldn't be bothered to finish once we decided we didn't need them. I've given them a coat of teak oil so they're somewhat protected however.

£30 for the pair, collection SE15. They're pretty heavy but if you have an Omnium or similar they'd probably be manageable...

Yeah, happened to me. Was warrantied without fuss and I collected a new battery from the Junction Store a few days later. It's a terrible design as you can't change the handle without exposing the cells, which voids the OEM's warranty 🤦‍♂️.

Slipping doesn't necessarily mean new sleeve required, often it can be cured by tightening the pinch bolt a quarter turn or so and/or thoroughly cleaning both the sleeve and post with IPA or degreaser. But yeah if you need to replace the sleeve then you need to ream it post gluing in to compensate for distortion in the seat tube.

A Line is solid without mudguards. As you say the disc acts to prevent the outer rubbing on the tyre in lieu of a mudguard.

For the weather strips, how did you handle the areas where the locks and hinges are? Just made discontinuities in the seal or is there some clever solution?

The dealer diagnostic tool was rewritten about a year ago and so is now much more insightful. Used to basically just say replace everything regardless of the underlying fault, which unsurprisingly was causing Brompton to hemorrhage cash on warranty work.