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If you drop your front end it will steepen your seat tube angle too which for me would be very undesirable. I use a 30mm layback seat post and the saddle slammed all the way back and still cant get it in the right place on a 74 degree seat post. I've got no idea what I'm talking about though.
When you get the head tube replaced you could get a custom fork built too with a high rake. Now that would be special. I'd love a custom segmented fork one day.
The frame builder is based in Sheffield.

I actually went right through your Raleigh Royal thread in the middle of the night last night when I couldn't sleep. That build is everything this build wishes it was. What a beautiful bike!
I even love the blue forks and red patchy paint. Did you do that or the frame builder?
There's also a fair chance that this build eventually goes flat bar too because the frames a tiny bit big for me and I think it might make more sense for the handling and the riding I intend to use it for.

sumink like this

It would've gotten rusty very quickly if I carried on riding it daily like I did through the spring and summer.

eh?

Using a convertor wouldn't necessarily solve the problem I had that the stem wouldn't bind into the steerer tube securely enough. I also got sick of adjusting the headset. It wasn't for me. The steering felt like cack when it was adjusted properly and felt good to ride when it was dangerously loose.
The bike needed new paint to continue on living anyway. It was flaking off at a rate of knots.
I'm updating something old that hopefully will stay with me for a very long time. Hopefully there will be no real compromises like there was before.

ha just suggesting, sorry

Fairlight Faran 2.0?

Nice! What's the plan? I just went through your Galaxy thread and you defo have a unique style with your mods lol
Yeah the new tube will be fillet brazed. I asked the guy if he would just leave the joins unsmoothed but he refused :s

Yeah I'm pretty pleased with myself for that one. The whole point of this build is having the freedom to just do stuff and see where it goes. If it turns into a special bike that's great. If it's a bit of a clown mobile then that's ok too.

I had an epiphany in the early hours of the morning. I'm gonna run 650b in the front and 700c in the back. The smaller front wheel should drop the front end down by 19mm and correct the geometry with the too-tall fork I'm using.
This would get me with a rough HA of 73 and with the 50mm offset fork it means quite low trail geometry and I'm definitely down for that.

I bought this 1999 Raleigh Randonneur frame last year. Built it up with ebay parts and derailleurs from a dead halfords bike and added some wheels from Spa cycles. I went on a rainy tour with it and rode my first 100 miler too. I didnt get along with the quill stem as it kept moving and that scared me quite a bit. Had it in a ridiculous configuration in an effort to make it as comfy as possible. The paint deteriorated rapidly and I sold it but it never got collected.
Fast forward to now and suddenly it's at a local frame builder's.
Initially it was getting just a head tube replacement to 1 1/8 inch. A cheapish experiment which meant I get to keep the bike and fanny around with builds.
Now it's getting new chain stays to hopefully increase the clearance from 32mm at the rear to 40mm+

I got a Light Blue Cycles Darwin fork for it off ebay for cheap. A/C measurement is 405mm apparently and as it's replacing a 385mm a/c fork the geo is gonna get interesting. It should end up having a HA of 71 degrees and a SA of 71 degrees once it's done. I reckon fork has 50mm offset so I think that will work nicely.
My hopes for the build are that I can take it on some off road touring in Scotland in the summer but the truth is I have a perfectly appropriate bike for that already.
As of yesterday it's now also getting disc tabs put on the back so I think I will be trying to make 650b work.
This is the only bike I've ever had pedal strike with but I think stand-over might be an issue with the longer fork so I need to be careful and find the right balance.
This is quite directionless and definitely a bad idea but I'm having the time of my life.
The build is going to have to be cheap and functional. I'm thinking Spa Cycles touring triple used as a super compact double and parts bin build. This is going to be ugly and unrefined. I'm sorry for writing so much. Cheers.

Thanks for taking the time to explain your setup. Like with most bike stuff you have to just buy it and see if it works for you if you want to find out. I'm planning some off road touring this year and I want to be excellent and run large volume carradice and not be scared. The scared-guy option is big waterproof tube pointing off the back. We shall see...

No worries. In the photo it looks like they have their bag sat flat on top of a rack suggesting no use of bagman or seatpost (wouldnt be flat if it was tucked up to the post).

Do you affix the Carradice to the rack in some way on the bottom? or just let it chill?

yeah top tube length c - c needed to have any idea what size the frame is really

It looks like you may have sold it already but a/c refers to the axle to crown measurement of the fork. I have a fork that's 385mm axle to crown and if this frame is designed for a 400mm a/c fork it wouldn't be suitable. Cheers.

Whats the a/c measurement of the fork? So I know if the fork I have is suitable

Had three separate PMs about buying the wheels. I want to get rid of all of it tbh and figured the best way was to sell a complete bike with whichever wheels and then sell the other wheelset separately.

No interest in a complete bike so far, might have to make a new plan

Based in Canterbury Kent btw

Selling this bike.
Soma Double Cross 54cm built up in May of last year, not ridden through the winter and been in storage until now.

Genesis CGR1 forks
Tiagra hydraulic groupset. 50/34 with 11-36 cassette or ive got an 11 - 32 as well. None of this has seen much mileage at all
Brooks B17
Ritchey Butano bars

Wheels either:
Hope RS4 rear hub/ SP Dynamo front hub
Kinlin rims - Spa cycles handbuilt

or

Hunt light aero disc wheelset

It needs a bit of a clean (dust from storage) and the brakes will need a bleed. Unfortunately theres a mark on the top tube from when a tyre was leant against it in the car, Im sure it will come out but I dont know how to get it out safely without causing damage.

£1350 with the dynamo/hope wheels?

other wheelset sold separately or with the bike.

Based in Canterbury, Kent

Sorry everyone, I took it out and gave it a clean yesterday and took some photos. Been down the pub tonight and working 15 hours tomorrow. Had a few messages about price. Im going to come back and do it all properly when Ive got a minute, just wanted to see if there was interest first. Based In Canterbury fyi. Cheers.

I'm wanting to gauge interest on this bike. I need to get it out and clean the bugger but the I need a gap in the weather and its been like 2 weeks now.

Soma Double Cross 54cm
Genesis CGR one fork
Wheels handmade by spa cycles - Kinlin rims, hope rs4 rear hub, SP dynamo front. Little use
Tiagra groupset hydraulic disc
Ritchey Butano bars 40cm
Schwalbe G one speed 35c tyres

The build was completed exactly this time one year ago. The wheels were bought last autumn. I haven't ridden it since december. No room in my house for a nice bike that I dont use because ive gone carless and bop about on a fkin halfords bike with a pizza rack

would I be better of selling parts individually you think? Strange mix of parts

Ive just bought this off you on ebay. Its a shame I didnt see it here. How tall are you out of interest?

Ah right, thanks. You got any photos of your setup? Cheers

Hi, I appreciate the answer, thank you. Is that simply because the chain is thinner?

Hi, im new af ive got a wolftooth 38t chainring, im assuming that is fine to use for a fixed gear bike then?

I assumed that the tooth count would be too small as people always seem to use 46, 48 tooth (i think) from what ive seen