-
Newer / higher end chains are actually better made than older 5-8 speed stuff. They last longer and could well be stronger.
beware that some are a full 3/32" wide and won't fit 9+ speed chains which are only 11/128" wide
I've not noticed this running 11 speed chain (SRAM PC-1130) on various 3/32nd chainrings and cogs.
-
-
Well, thousands of people happily use them every day, so they can't be that awful. If you're lucky you'll have no issues, or intermittent issues that clear themselves. If you're unlucky you'll have keys that become unusable requiring multiple full top case replacements. It's a bit of a lottery. All of them very short key travel though. Try one in a shop before buying.
-
-
-
I've done a Dutch 400. The scenery can be reasonably varied, although athletically the lack of ups and downs makes the pedalling quite monotonous.
The cycle paths have the problem of often going around the edge of towns and not having facilities directly on them. Whereas a British audax route will naturally go past village shops and garages etc, it's quite easy to plot a route all the way across NL on cycle paths that goes past nothing.
-
The cycle path along their is surprisingly decent, if you can ignore the lorries 12 inches from your shoulder. There's not a lot of good alternative routes out west.
You are kind of on your own at slip roads, and there's no path on the last section from Northolt to Uxbridge, even though it's before it becomes a motorway. There's a big "cycling not recommended" sign on the slip road leading to that bit.
-
-
-
-
Decathlon do this odd trolley bag pannier thing. No way to use it as a backpack though.
-
That whole rear cable routing/lengths is ghastly! Also:
- Dynamo cable from headlight to rear light isn’t meant to go through the front hinge frame loop. Also the routing past the fork looks questionable.
- Shouldn’t a new bike have curved brake pads?
I don’t know if it’s “wrong”, but the exposed red wire going to the rear light looks super shonky.
- Dynamo cable from headlight to rear light isn’t meant to go through the front hinge frame loop. Also the routing past the fork looks questionable.
-
The bricks at A look like thingies that go into tool-free wire crimp connectors on the rear light. Basically you shove the bare wires through the hole, then shove the plastic bit into a hole on the rear light. Rear lights that use this system usually also have standard spade connectors too. You can use either.
If your rear light cable already has plugs on the other end, you can probably reverse it and use the plugs to connect to the head light and use the tool-free connectors on the rear light for the bare ends. That would save messing about with crimps and heat shrink.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Are there any handlebar bags designed specifically to hang off TT bars apart from the Apidura Racing bag?