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Outstanding.

I'd like to see what rubbing the front fork with cola and aluminium foil does to the chrome.

Shimano's android app says my "not sure if hack or bodge" wires work. I updated the firmware before I looked on the internets at all the horror stories from people who have done the same thing and then needed to buy another ridiculously expensive USB adapter to unfuck it when the firmware update fails. Lucky me!

Teaser, no kitchen table

The downtube hole will get tidied up with sugru and heatshrink for strain relief once I know how long I want the end of the cable.

4-way wire for bars. One plug for each shifter, one for the bar end junction box, and one to connect to the wires in the frame.

This thread is mostly closeups of my kitchen table. Very sturdy, lots of knife and fork storage, would buy again.

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/tables/dining-tables/norden-gateleg-table-birch-art-90423887/

Four cables (seat tube battery, both mechs, and the one coming down the downtube) join at the bottom bracket but there's no point using the Shimano connector because either way these wires aren't coming back out of the frame without cutting them. All the red* wires join together, all the black wires join together, and then my Junction B is made entirely of heatshrink and solder. I hope glue-lined heatshrink will keep any condensation out but to be honest I'm not a big fan of cycling in the wet in any case.

*The thinner bits that go through cable stops and breather holes are earphone cable split in two, so one of the red wires is white

Front mech cable, adjusted to fit in the cable stop so it doesn't flap around. It goes under the bottom bracket and in through the hole underneath where you might attach a cable guide.

I don't need one now but thanks anyway.

The rear mech cable gets a thinner bit spliced in and then it fits through the breather hole in the end of the chainstay. Nice heatshrink ferrule keeps it where it belongs, the thin bit goes through the cable stop, round the back of the stay, and in right under the stop. It'll get a blob of sugru to hold it on as soon as I have got a blob of sugru.

After I pulled myself together from the wallet shock I looked more closely at my new wires. I was expecting solid gold but they just look like normal wires on the inside.

The price of these fucking wires, I don't even. I tried looking at electronic component suppliers for 5mm coaxial connectors, but didn't find them. All I want is the plugs, because none of the holes on the frame are big enough to wire it up the usual way.

I need 8 connectors in total*, so that's four wires.

*Shifters, junction A, battery, front mech, rear mech, and a 2-way join between the frame and the bars so that they're not permanently wired together.

moneygun.gif

It has a boss for an aero downtube shifter on top of the tube. What am I going to with that? Put one of these on it, then a pair of these?

That would look like I've done a dirty protest. No way, that's not a downtube cable stop shifter boss boss, that's a Di2 wire hole. Let's go shopping!

The last time I felt comfortable using a down tube shifter was 25 years ago so it has to be neo.

That seat tube dimple in full:

Hello LFGSS. Here's my new bike, it's a Gazelle AA Super made in 1988 according to the frame number and details: http://www.gazellechampionmondial.nl/specs.php/?type=AA-super&year=1988

It's got shiny stays, fades and a big dimple in the back of the seat tube for extra tukt. Watch me make it into a right dog's dinner and end up in anti-porn.