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It's basically the same as acetylene, but a little cooler and if I've read correctly the hottest point of the tip is slightly further away from the cone.
Should be good as getting acetylene down my drive would be a nightmare and after speaking to my insurance company it's not an economically viable choice for me.
You can use the same torches but a multi jet tip is recommended as it's easier to extinguish a propane flame.
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Things have escalated.
In an attempt to keep my insurance an close to the same as it is now, I've been pointed in the direction of a medical oxygen condenser. According to velosalon, 5lpm does fine, and they seem to pop up on eBay for okay money but go quite quickly. You can still use a gas inline fluxer too, which is my preference as they just are fascistic.
My new plan is to use one of those- my partner isn't at all keen on having bottles of gas in my small workshop so less of better. As it's only 4.5m x 2.5m and has to store all my bikes space is already at a premium.
I've only ever used propane for a massive wide tip for brazing forks as I had to do a few at once and a pal recommended it. All I can say is it worked well and it was loud, so I'm excited.
Ideally, in the future, I'll get a small Tig too, I really want to try silicon bronze rods (for dissimilar metals) but it's way down the list of cool stuff to get. Maybe next year.
Has anyone had any experience with one of those laser cut welding table? My preference would be one of those rhino carts, but they run 2k new and it's just way out of my budget.
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Hi All,
Ive moved out of the hussle and bussle of central london into a house with a small outbuilding that I intend on using for workshopping purposes. Ive managed to get myself a lathe (that Im quite chuffed about) and am looking for a mini mill (if anyone has a Warco RF-30 sized machine for sale, Im interested).
While the excitment of the new gaff plus the new machine hasnt yet died down, I would quite like a way to stick metal together and Oxy-acetylene is by far my favourite method. I have a setup I can use at work, but that isnt ideal for long term and want something at home. I was wondering if anyone has ever attempted to do the same and know the pitfalls. I am aware I will have to inform my insurance, but thats a small hurdle. I was also going to inform the local fire department, as it seems like the correct thing to do.
If its all too hard, I'll get better at tig, but it doesnt have the same romance about it. Plus Im crap at tig welding. And I hate it.
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They are done. As mentioned above, don't think there's any difference. Used Brompton brake cables as straddle cables as they seem to be thinner than others. They aren't, but this is all about the feel. This bike is going to be my winter commuter, I've already got my Pancho. It's 90% spare parts which is nice, I just want to sort the dynamo setup.
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Turns out it was a drywall anchor, and let me tell you what, it didnt want to come out.
For those playing at home, its an M6 thread, which seems large, but I dont know if these are for pictures or shelves. Either way, Im chuffed the first one is out, Im going to get a longer bolt as this didnt seem to straighen it enough. The remaing hole looks a bit like a face, which is fun.
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Does anyone have any expierence with a ROG XG mobile GPU?
I have a ROG ally extreme, that I use 90% of the time handheld, but would like to use for higher power gaming occasionally. Was thinking about getting it to use on occasion and then also a laptop that can use it, but it seems like overkill for a handheld.
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Hi All,
Ive just moved into my first house that I own a percentage of! Starting to look at painting and other little small things to tackle before I move onto the larger issues (the entire mainroom floor is warped as the roof had a leak a year back). I have these weird metal things in the walls eveywhere (see attached picture), which I would like to remove before painting- does anyone know how to remove them? I have tried a thin knife behind it, no luck, and Ive tried threading a m6/8 bolt into there but theres nothing for the threads to grip (as far as I can tell). Im not above angle grinding them out, but I would prefer this as a last resort due to the mess.
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So after failing to get rid of my old Pearson, it's being turned into a lovely pub bike. To fit bigger fenders more easily I've decided to use cantis and while setting them up I realised I have lost the straddle cable holders.
This got me thinking about how the system works and why it's so hard to balance cantis sometimes, then promptly remembered big daddy Jan makes those hangers with a roller wheel in them. After decided I wanted to try them to see if there is any measurable difference in performance or setup I checked the website and realised they will cost near on £100 to get them state side.
Not a chance.
So I started making my own. These are just rough prototypes, which is why they are bad looking and poorly made, the mill is it of comission currently getting a pneumatic drawbar changer installed, so I did this all on the drill press with the dodgey vice. Either way, just need to knock up the roller wheels and the cable clamp pin, but that won't take long, I'll do it next week.
If they work like I think they work, I'll re-make them a bit nicer. Might splurge on some CNC parts. Idk.
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So, I made it! I went on my trip, which ended up being 10 days in the Dolomites. I can highly recommend, it's an insanely beautiful place- almost unfair how beautiful it is.
The Brother preformed fantastically, it's a brilliant bike. That being said, for the route we did, I'm not sure I could ethically recommend riding rigid. I'm not a great mountain biker, but I've been doing it for a decent while, and while I didn't crash, it was bloody hard work getting down hill. Mostly the fist sized boulders on 20% slopes.
But don't let me put you off, it's an amazing place. Plus don't take camping gear, rifugios are €30-50 a night and come with dinner and breakfast, plus you get a bed, shower and campari spritz'.
On a very positive note, my rack survived! Well it kinda did. It was fine for the trip and took a nasty knock on the way home which has bent it out of shape, but that's okay. It was a prototype. I'm thinking about knocking up a fixture to make them "in mass" if anyone is ever interested.
Now that the trip is over, it's back to regular programming- I recently got two tube sets from ceeway with the intention of knocking up a frame to replace the beater roadie and a cool town bike for my partner. When we used to live in Aus, I bought her a Tokyo bike with my first paycheck from my first design job and she loved it so much it's carefully stored at her mother's in fear of it ever coming to London and being stolen, so I figured I would make something similar to that but with actually tyres clearance, not the amusing 28 max it currently takes.
Edit: before the question is asked, the frame bag wasn't made for this bike, it was a last minute lend from a smaller friend, but it worked fine.
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Sooo I'm going to the dolomites in 3 weeks, and have done no planning and no riding. So I made a rack.
It's got almost zero clearance to the tyre, BUT IT CLEARS!
It will get a lick of paint and we are good to go. Also the lower tubes are copper coloured because they are think l thin walled hydraulic tubes, got some cheap, brazed real nice.
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Nice one, I'm excited to get a torch of my own! I think Tig is invaluable in most situations, it might even be the better option for a home/hobby shop but I just find brazing more.... Elegant? Maybe a stupid reason but oh well. I can do it, I'm just rubbish at it.