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I couldn't work out whether it relies on paid subscription services
(like trainer road) to be able to create custom workout plans. Their
literature is strongly biased towards this but does mention 'other'
3rd party apps.

I asked about this last summer and @hazzelfrazzel wrote this reply idk if it's all still valid. I did alright with Training Peaks free version for a while. Hopefully going to be using it again soon

76kg. I have tried lower pressures than 70psi, but I'll give it another go and see what it's like

Has anyone noticed that Schwalbe Pro-Ones have poor traction on steep gradients, or am I just imagining it? Often, when I get out of the saddle I find the back wheel is skipping out. This might just be the road conditions at the moment, but for comparison, this current set-up (28mm, tubeless, 70psi), although it feels good in general, seems to be worse in this respect than how I remember my old set-up being in winter (GP4000 25mm tubed, 95psi).

I got Kinvara 10s at the start of 2019, ran 550km, not all of it those shoes, and the heels are already starting to wear away on the inside. I also ended up with a hole in one of one of them when a sharp stone stuck into the foamy sole and cut right through. I haven't noticed water getting in, yet, though.

I really liked the shoes, and I don't know if that's such an unusually short lifespan for running shoes, but even so, could anyone recommend me something a bit more durable as a replacement?

Pilgrim's Disc in Colne Valley today:

Yeah that is daft. The tyre on the other wheel does stay seated though.

I don't understand the point of the 'moar tape' approach, but I will try it

I've got a Schwalbe Pro-One on DT Swiss 511 rim that holds pressure but always comes unseated below a certain pressure. I think I need to try a different tyre to determine if the one I have is the problem. Before I start messing around though, I wonder if it's worth riding it a bit with sealant in?

The high-end hand grinders promising bigger burrs are quite pricey

Has anyone used a drill setup and got on with it?

Are other hand grinders faster than the Hario Slim, or are they all basically the same apart from ergonomics?

Thanks for the reply, that's really helpful for me

It sounds like I should give the free options a go because I'm not necessarily that bothered about scheduling or cadence zones.

I don't have a turbo trainer - last night I used Elemnt Bolt + TP to do hill intervals outside. It all worked well except the 'press lap button to advance' option didn't do anything. I didn't need it in this case, but I think I might need to use the pause button instead sometimes.

Doing structured workouts outdoors probably requires a lot of customisation, so I can easily see that these bodge-type solutions might start to get on my nerves

Does anyone know if you can still use the basic workout creation functions on Training Peaks when the premium trial runs out? It's a shame Wahoo don't provide this themselves

Knocking the barb into the cut end of the hose was more difficult than I expected. I wouldn't want to try it without some kind of vice. I used a Workmate bench. The brakes are connected up though finally. Bleeding put off to another day

Thanks Amey, got everything ordered now

I have never fitted disc brakes before, but now I have a set of 105 hydraulic brakes and shifters which is apparently a 'fully bled system'. The hose came attached to the caliper, and has a cap at the shifter end. The shifter has a bung in it. I don't have anything else apart from plastic blocks for the calipers. Can anyone tell me which bits I need to get to shorten and connect it up?

2x olives and barbed inserts
cutting block, cutting tool?
some kind of bleed kit?

Yes, under settings > Partner Integrations

£300 gravel frameset but it weighs 2.4kg in 53cm apparently

PMed re: saddle

They all stretch once they've been fitted for a while, don't they?

Some things like syrup and honey are difficulty to measure out by any method, but imagine writing a recipe and telling people to use a cup measure. What a mess, what a waste.

I have some sympathy for measuring things by volume, in Eastern European recipes you have 'a glass' of this and that, and it's rarely fussy. Americans just abuse the whole concept and end up telling you to measure broccoli in a little scoop

That looks class @6pt, I have a bit of room to go longer on the stem, so I am potentially interested, I'll PM you

Yes! I think that's the one. I had assumed it was much more expensive for some reason, must have been thinking of Mason

Kinesis 4S disc in 60cm looks like a candidate with 402.7 reach, 606.4 stack

Talk of an 'OG winter bike' has me thinking I should look for second hand on here

@duncs I don't want raceblades, I want the best guards I can get on this

@Lolo yeah, I've got a gravel bike, and I quickly realised it's not going to do everything in the way I want it to.

I'm planning ahead for next winter, £800 frameset would be the top end I think

The ALR looks nice, but I wonder how it would compare with my summer bike (XL in the chart) with 409mm frame reach, 120mm stem, 80mm reach on the bars, 595mm stack. The biggest Trek (61cm) has 397 reach 638mm stack.

If I sized down to 58, the stack would be significantly less (609mm), reach 391mm, and I could maybe run a big old 140mm stem? There are many other aspects of geometry I am ignoring here I guess

Can anyone recommend me a winter road bike, or give me an idea of where to start looking, for using c.28mm tyres and full guards, disc brakes. I'm not looking for a do-it-all bike, I'd like something fast, fairly light, with aggressive geometry.

I'm not exactly sure how far eg. a CAADX would approach the feeling of riding a CAAD12, or whether a Ribble would feel sluggish. Maybe my best approach would be to look for as small a frame as possible with a long stem?