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Thanks, these look good

I remember I used to have some very comfy Hirzl gloves with a leather palm, and I'm kind of tempted by the Giro LX full leather ones

Can anyone recommend a good pair of short-finger gloves / mitts? I have the dhb Aeron Speed Mitts and they've lasted surprisingly well, but inevitably the fabric has gone slack and I'd like to get something better constructed

This is what the wavy washer looks like

I have a ticking, clicking, crankset (Praxis Zayante Carbon S) or bottom bracket (Praxis M30 T47 E.B.), both of which are fairly new.

I know it's one of the two because I've swapped both out and eliminated the noise that way. Unfortunately I don't have another M30 crankset to check whether it's one or the other.

I'm certain it's nothing to do with the front derailleur, because I can hear it when the chain is definitely not anywhere near rubbing. It's not pedals or cleats/shoes - I've swapped them out to test.

It happens once per pedal stroke, with the right foot forward and going down. It's kind of intermittent, loudest when pedalling regularly at 250w+. I think it goes away at a high power, but I could be wrong there, the noise may be being drowned out.

Having test-ridden it a lot, I think I've never heard anything at all when in the big ring, no matter how I pedal. This lead me to conclude the problem is with the small ring/spider interface. The bolts for the small ring have their own threaded holes, they are separate from the big ring bolts. I cleaned and greased the contact points, and removed, greased and carefully re-tightened the bolts many times. I have stuck to the recommended 10nm torque, and tried to get them tightened evenly and gradually. I replaced the bolts with steel ones. I'm not sure what more I can do here? I could try threadlock on the bolts instead of grease. I could tighten the bolts beyond spec. Nothing I have done with the bolts has seemed to have any effect on the noise. When I found one had been a little loose after a test-ride, tightening it had no effect.

If the problem is not actually with the small ring at all, it could be the spider/crank interface (it's bolted on), but I've checked these bolts and surfaces thoroughly.

It could be the crank arm bolt, which is supposed to be tightened to 50nm. I don't have a suitable torque wrench for that, but at any rate, I think I've had it plenty tight.

It could be the bottom bracket, but I don't know what to do with that beyond removing, cleaning the threads, greasing and refitting. I've definitely had it on tight. The bearings seem to move smoothly, and I have the correct dust caps fitted (28mm x 2mm on NDS, 30mm x 1mm on DS)

There doesn't seem to be any unusual wear on the spindle. I can't feel any play in the crankset, but I have wondered whether the gap between the spider and the DS dust cap (filled by a wavy washer) is too large - it looks quite large to me, and the wavy washer is not noticably compressed (should it be?). On the other hand, nothing I have read about my set-up suggests I should need any extra spacers anywhere.

Does anyone have any suggestions for anything else I should try, please?

An 18cm headtube is a bit small for this thread but here's mine

I like the cheap lifeline kit, comes with some rubber solution which I use to coat the anchovy and a little knife. I usually trim away the excess and add a bit of rubber solution on top, and I've never had one blow out

Can I use 5800 chainrings on an R8000 crankset? Anything 4-bolt asymmetric is OK, right?

You can run a lever under the bead, moving it into place, to seat some or all of it. This achieves something similar to the inner-tube trick in my experience - and you don't have to mess around with the valve

@Sveinung
Paragrafrytter apparently means something like bureaucrat, so is this thread title a reference to the typical owner, something like 'the dentists' association of Cervelo owners'?

Slammed -10/-12° stem always looks best on road bikes in my opinion, but especially those with a level or close to level top tube

A, but how about A at the front, B at the back?

Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about Laptops Direct refurbished laptops? They seem like quite good deals sometimes

patch the inside of the tyre?

OSM cycle map on RWGPS seems to be decent. these are the same two areas I posted on the last page

The highlighted NCN-type routes are a bit distracting, shame you can't turn them off. The auto-routing is also intrusive sometimes but seems to behave better if I set it to 'optimise for driving'

Yes mate I love Holme and Colne Valley. Thick Hollins isn't really one of my favourite climbs, but the name always raised a smile

To illustrate why I find the new route builder map so bad (apart from the waypoint issue), here is Stanage Edge on the old and new map. On the old one you can see at a glance the difference between North Lees (the road) and Long Causeway (the track) and minor footpaths. Now you have to actually put your route on it to see that Long Causeway is 'dirt'. Heatmap overlay is no help here.

If I look at an unfamiliar area, it's just a mess of white lines everywhere, and it's really not clear where to start. Here is old and new again. Three grades of surface are collapsed into two, and it's no longer clear that there are no asphalted through roads.

I don't get what's better about the new route builder? If I click and drag a point on the existing route to force a waypoint, nothing happens and I have to repeat the action several times to get it to work. It's a glaring fault and they shouldn't have released it like this. The route surface data they have is rubbish, worse than Komoot. The bright green map is awful to look at. As a paying user, I guess I'm going to make my routes with RWGPS now

The new route builder is buggy - often doesn't seem to want to allow me to add waypoints. The standard map offered seems worse than the old 'terrain' option too

I'm looking for a laptop for my dad, does this look like a good deal?

i3-1005G1, 8gb ram, 256gb SSD, 15" FHD screen for £412

I need a new rim for a rear wheel. Hunt Race Aero Wide, 24 hole, 31mm deep, 24mm wide

I'd like to get a move on with it, I'm waiting to hear from Hunt about a warranty replacement, but they don't have stock for a direct replacement at the moment anyway.

They charge £79 delivered for the rim, so if I end up having to pay for it, should I go ahead and get something else? I don't want to pay more than that, what's my best bet?

Edit: apparently their rim is a Kinlin xr31t, so that's my answer I suppose

There’s WhatsApp messages that state that the senior management team got Tom Watson who sat on the committee dealing with it to suspend ken Livingston for another year, rather than deal with it swiftly to harm Corbz.

I think it's likely that stuff like this went on, but the quote this is based on isn't proof of it:

Emilie Oldknow wrote that "Karie [Murphy] has been telling Shadow Cabinet members that I've orchestrated the Ken situation so... Tom got his people on the panel to make a soft decision. all in order to embarrass JC and create a crisis".

So she's reporting Murphy's opinion here.

Good summary here: https://labourlist.org/2020/04/internal-report-lays-bare-poor-handling-of-complaints-by-labour/

...

@Bezzin
This is my Bowman Pilgrims Disc, since replaced by the Weald. It feels not a million miles away from my summer bike and very handy on rough roads in winter conditions.

Which pads to get for Shimano road (BR-RS505) please?

Shimano L04C (finned, alloy backed)- £20
Prime (steel backed) - £10

or something else?