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I’ll try and check the tubes when it comes to it. I’ve had luck with a couple of Reynolds frames previously, the top of the forks being the best place to check. In my googling I’ve seen a few pics of A&P stamps on forks. It’d be nice to know.

No good reason, I don't know that much about Hobbs but I guess if the steerer is A&P then the rest is too. I would be pleased if it was, for interest's sake more than anything else. I've just been looking in to it today, starting with the classiclightweights article linked earlier, which got me wondering.

I think this frame needs to cool its heels in the attic for a bit anyway. I didn't mean to keep it, but it's hard to part with now I've had it in my hands!

Morning all, does anyone know if Accles & Pollack and Reynolds tube would have been mixed in a frame? More specifically a 1950 Hobbs Clubweight (lugless) frame. As Hobbs used both I would guess there is an increased likelihood, although as a customer I guess if I specified A&P / Reynolds I would expect one or the other. There is this article on classiclightweights that indicates that it is possible

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/accles-pollock-comp.html

I see that TI acquired A&P in 1919 and Reynolds in 1928 so they were associated companies by 1950. From catalogues and marketing material, it seems like they still presented themselves to the paying customer as competing brands though.

Long story short, I have just found an A&P A oval stamp on the steerer tube and was hoping that meant I knew the frame was A&P :)

Thanks, took a fair bit of sweat, some blood and the odd tear :)

Aww yiss I do love that brake bridge :)

I didn't realise the shot I took outside was focused on the seattube, so there's a dramatic one with the flash inside :)

Just snapped a few, sorry for the poor photography.

A few tweaks needed still, but I've been out for a couple of shake-down rides on this bike now. It's quite punchy but a joy to ride. It's rained every day since I took the shot with the bars wrapped, but I'll take some more if it ever stops. I also plan to put a couple of coats of shellac on the tape before taking it out again.

I saw the frame at an auction a while back and like in a fantasy novel when the hero first swings the magic sword, it sang in my hand. I won it at the top end of what I was prepared to pay and then found out the hammer price at auction doesn't include VAT, and hid it in the attic for a year :D

There is a catalogue in the VCC library for the Jubilee re-issue by Ray Etherton, built by Ron Cooper (mine has the "Ron Cooper" decal), lugs cut by Len Phipps, so a pretty decent crew! I've been in touch with Ray subsequently, who remembered this particular frame well. Coincidentally I took it in to Argos to check over a couple of things and Mark also remembers painting it for Ray.

I wasn't initially very taken with the "orchid pink" with blue lining, but it's growing on me, particularly now it's built up. Some extracts from the email from Ray:

"The Ron Cooper transfers were in short supply at the time of the build...I recall only 5 or 6 were fitted.
Some later frames had 'RC' Stamped on the BB shell near the original number....otherwise on the underside of the shell itself.

Yes...The frame is superb....The third one built by Ron. All lug work including the brake-bridge ornamentations were hand cut by Len Phipps. These lugs were cut from blanks supplied by Haden Bros Birmingham. All tubing was from the original stock from Bates. Later tubes supplied direct from Reynolds.

The original frame was built in 1996. It was 1 of only 4 that were fitted with the 'Diamond Jubilee' badge ... . From my experience, Ron was up there with the best of builders. ...Ron would do the Bates building , and I would thin all the lug work and silver-braze the stops, bosses etc.

ALL the owner's frames (10-12 ?) were Orchid Pink! His wife would not know the difference or any new ones he said....!"

I wanted to build it up with modern components as I will ride it frequently - so didn't want to trash vintage components. It also seemed a bit wrong to now put 1930s/40s/50s components on a frame built in 1996, or 1990s components on it, but I wanted to do the frame justice and recreate a classic fixed path racer aesthetic.

When I was speaking to Joey from ryanbuildswheels (who built the wheels), I said that I was trying to stay the right side of it being a hipster build but she just laughed at me and said I was way over the line. Oh well. I think so long as I ride it frequently and at least try for fast it'll be ok!

Thanks, and to @dangeek. Reminds me of a bad experience with a builder a few years back. I’m sure they have plenty of happy customers, but still boils my piss when I think about them :D

I’ve had frames nicely restored by Argos. Nothing is ever quite perfect, but I also think that is due to starting material - 50+ year old frames that have been used are difficult or at least very time consuming to get back to perfect. Funny that vintage bike restoration attracts ocd bike geeks (me included). Like moths to the flame.

I am still leaning towards Mercian, just seems appropriate to get an old Mercian restored by them. I had a very pleasant phone conversation with them and they are also doing free collection and delivery if ordered in June. Guess I will just beg for a careful job upfront and promise a good write-up if I get it!

Thanks again for your advice.

Eeesh just found this thread as have an old Mercian I'm considering having restored. I think I know übé®_grübé®'s feelings but anyone else got a view on having it restored by Mercian vs Argos, Bob Jackson, Ellis Briggs etc? Seemed appropriate to go to Mercian until I read the above.

Re Flying Scot

That looks like an interesting project. Bit too big though. I’m on the lookout for something similar for my brother-in-law’s upcoming big birthday. Planning to sucker him in to the classic lightweights lark :)

Looks great, like the two tone bar wrap. Nice with the chrome sleeves.

I think you’re missing the obvious solution. @richardshill just needs another bike 🙃

Ha, yes. Demoralising to the point of giving up at times!

Thanks for the info, Hilary Stone has a couple of pairs of the Allez. I like the Webb, but seems another one that gets snapped up on ebay.

I quite fancy having a go at this http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/pedals-rest.html but there's a lot more urgent stuff on my to-do list!

Very nice, definitely looks worth a trial.

I stand corrected, said the man in the orthopedic shoes.

Ha! Fair enough, 20 shillings in a pound. 6p inflation from 1948 to 1953 :)

Back in the 1939 Browns catalogue the BOA were inline with other pedals as far as I can see. Maybe it was the adjustable width that justified the price jump after the redesign. New unnecessary features / grams shaved -> increase in price, surprising :D

Not to be a total weiner, but that's for the CL on the line above :D

Graham Webb (World Amateur Road Champion 1967) attributed his lack of success as a pro to knee damage caused by a bent but unnoticed pedal.

I must have had a bent but unnoticed pedal for a while :D

Ok great, that was pretty much my conclusion, just wait for the right set to show up. B8 in 1953 Holdsworth 15/9, BOA 27/6, must be the Conloy dust cap doubling the price! [Image from the 1948 Constrictor catalogue on VCC.]

Ok, no harm in trying a polish first and see how I get on, decide on the replate after. I've been meaning to have a chat with an engraving place near me that can use lasers based on a photo. Not sure if they'll be interested, if it's prohibitively expensive, or even possible, but I have a fantasy that I can get them replated and the engraving freshened up afterwards based on a photo of the good one.

@SideshowBob those greens really caught my eye too, the candy apple does it for me. I'm going with the tobacco though, nice link to the frame's past and a colour I would never have considered. I will just need to take it out in the sunshine.

I've flipped on the braze-ons, going to take off the lamp boss and pump pegs and put them in a bag with the gear braze-ons. I like clean lines and don't need the extra expense of trying to get a period pump to fit that I don't want or need! Learn from @clubman 's mistake and not regret the extra grams :D

I've been thinking about components now I know the frame can be brought back to life and I think it's going to be an alloy build, I've got some Stronglight 49 cranks, TA track adaptor and ring, Lyotard 45ter pedals, Strata seatpost, Strata stem and Reynolds bars, Lytaloy headset and hopefully enough bad sets to make a good set of Lytaloy brakes, the Blumfield rear hub and some Fiamme sprints. Just need a seatpost collar and that elusive front hub. I guess I'm veering away from a typical period build, but plan to ride it and am excited to put that lot together. I can always put on a cottered chainset at a later date :)

rust removal

Evaporust looks good, thanks for the tip. I've had good results with Restore Rust Remover as well https://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk/restore-rust-remover-500ml-i27.htm. It's the only remover I've used, so I might give Evaporust a go as well for a comparison. As Peter Underwood says on classic lightweights http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/hintsandtips.html a brass bristled brush is extremely useful, I usually use that after soaking unless I'm being particularly careful with chrome.

I've been using the Restore Pre Clean Degreaser as well, but haven't been that impressed by it. It also contains something that corrodes aluminium, sodium hydroxide or phosphoric acid or something. It does say on the instructions not to use on aluminium, I didn't realise the side plates of Lyotard m23 pedals were alloy until they started fizzing. Anyone got a tip for a good degreaser?

Not sure if anyone else was eyeing the Constrictor toe-clips on ebay, one nos and one rusty, but I kept thinking 'I wonder just how rusty that is'. Anyway both sellers gave me a bit of a discount, so I made a pair. I haven't done much yet except give it an initial soaking in rust remover and gentle clean. Planning on replating.

hot pick for racers was the Brampton B8

Is there any significant difference between the B8, Constrictor BOA and BSA quill pedals? On the lookout for a set and in the end decided not to bid on the recent pair of B8 on ebay. Went for £20 in the end >.<

The nos ones on ebay are too rich for me, but I'd rather those than the new CL :)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-RAT-TRAP-PEDALS-PRE-WAR-NOS-VERY-RARE/264244778541?hash=item3d8637562d:g:wZkAAOSwLqRcj7J7