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For a group ride :)
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This is bad. You've got me researching the frame. Must. Not. Become. Invested.
Zooming in, it looks like a cut-out version of the attached 60s one from velobase. The details of the frame put it 1952-57 though (pretty amazing site http://www.nkilgariff.com/HoldsModelPages/Zephyr.htm). Maybe it was a homemade replacement at some point. Dunno.
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Yep I was composing an email asking an authority about it and didn't want to come across as a total bozo! I was thinking similar kinds of complicated things until I read the article a few times. BHC just re-used the rear barrels for drilled axle front barrels :)
Using Spocalc I get very similar length spokes for the F32 3x / R40 4x on the 76mm diameter flanges. That said, the larger flanges make less than 1mm difference on the length, fronts 1.5mm shorter than rear. In my case I could easily use 298mm for both. Thinking about it, that might be why they stopped at just 4mm bigger front flanges - if they had gone to the same diameter as the rears say, spoke lengths are 2.5mm different. I'd need 296mm front. Maybe that's over-thinking it!
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This Holdsworth Zephyr has been a tempter for me, I asked size - 22.5" ctc, so a little on the big side for me, a little expensive, and in Coventry and I am not Dominic Cummings.
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Heh :)
That Granby is back as a stripped frame. Boo https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granby-Bicycle-Frameset-1930-s/114234890496?hash=item1a98ee1900:g:vcEAAOSwI4Veyptr
[The headset came out in 1948 so unless fork steerer was cut I think unlikely it’s 1930s, but who knows.]This is intriguing, I know next to nothing about Osgear etc. so no comment on what or how unusual it is ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-PRE-DERAILLEUR-GRANBY-CAMPAGNOLO-CYCLO-OSGEAR-SIMPLEX-RESILION-ETC/383560696293?hash=item594dffc1e5:g:y4MAAOSw~vZeytZh
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Does anyone know why there are 2 different diameter Airlite Continental front hubs?
76mm and 80.4mm as shown on http://classiclightweights.co.uk/airlites.htmlI know everyone was losing sleep over this one, I've answered my own question by reading the article more carefully. There is ~ 4mm difference in diameter between the cups of the barrels of the solid 5/16" axle barrels and the rear barrels re-used for the drilled quick release axles.
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@SideshowBob I am on the same journey. I had come down tentatively on an FM as I wanted a low gear for the hills around me. @clubman good to read the alloy shells don't save much weight. I thought you'd said it was the weight from a lamp boss stopping you getting 59:59 for a 25, but reading back you blamed air turbulence :D
Edit: in case you haven't seen it, this is useful http://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanczyc/pdfs/satriggersjuly06.pdf
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Look. At. That.
Lovely bike, great project. "Slow and careful" is bang on, be prepared for slow, frustrating, probably expensive :) As @Big_Block says, a separate build thread would be nice but ask questions here or on that thread. Any vintage bike fancier will help you get the best out of this frame.
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Sorry clicked the wrong reply :)
What’s your plan now? Rebuild with a Mad Max aesthetic or time for new paint?
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Very very nice. I have headset, seat collar, brakes. It’s the pump that gets me, love it.
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Does anyone know why there are 2 different diameter Airlite Continental front hubs?
76mm and 80.4mm as shown on http://classiclightweights.co.uk/airlites.html and attached?I have 2 with hollow axles that are the 80.4mm and 1 with solid axle that is 76mm.
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@SideshowBob There's a 40h Module E2 on Ebay at the moment (has been for maybe a month). IMO £80 is a lot to pay, so I have been doing my best to ignore it! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-NOS-MAVIC-MODULE-E2-700c-40-HOLE-CLINCHER-RIM/392463508327
Other 40h sprints do come up, not a lot and not often sexy ones. There are a couple of 70s/80s Monthelery Route listed at the moment https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-Mavic-Monthelery-Route-Tubular-Road-Rim-Silver-40H-700c-622-21mm-390g/333142231526?hash=item4d90d309e6:g:BxIAAOSwOVlcAA7h and it should be relatively easy to find matching 32h fronts. Again IMO these would look good with decals removed and a bit of a polish - they are at the more robust end for sprints.
Regarding the period Fiamme and Mavic, as mentioned above the Mavic seem really hard to come by. I have been looking for a 32h to pair a nice 40h I have for months, possibly even a year. Hilary Stone does have some, but unless he's unearthed more since I was there, what he has would suit builds with more patina.
If you haven't seen this, there is good info on trying to get the 'right' Fiamme for your build https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/781480-fiamme-red-timeline-start-please-join.html
As far as I remember without checking, the Longhi patent expired in 1959 - so #2 would be good to around then plus a few years for stock to run off. The later versions #4-6 come up reasonably often, especially 36h, but good condition #2 and #3 are hard to come by.
Repro decals are available from a few places, but as far as I know Cyclomondo do the best, you'd want H for #2 http://cyclomondo.net/USERIMAGES/Fiamme%20B(1).jpg
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Thank you :) Yep the colour is great and all the work Argos did is great, very nice finish. I am hoping to change the decals, these are a bit thick. I had wanted to do that, sort the head badge, headset and seatpost collar before posting pics ... nearly there but all have been a real drag.
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@SideshowBob cheating a little photographing it in the sun this time :)
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Agree with @falconvitesse I'm local and it's great to go in and see the colour samples and frames hanging up. Not sure if/when that will be possible again. The green flam 'candy apple' is great, the 'Peter Lowry' purple flam - see pic, (I think it's a flam) midnight blue if you want something more dignified :)
I would say listen carefully to their suggestions, they're not forceful in telling you what you want isn't a good idea. Also make sure anything you want done is on the worksheet. As with most things - it's good to listen to the experts and make sure what you want is specified carefully!
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@SideshowBob oof it’s a slow burn :). The colour turned out fantastically, and the work Argos have done. Many other aggravations but I’m getting through them. I’ll try and post some teaser shots this week ...
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Aerospace 303 Protectant
Thanks @BigBlock, will give it a go. Pretty decent colour match on the sleeves and cables, possibly a bit too jazzy :)
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Just to add in my tuppence, I traumatized myself removing and servicing a Regina freewheel, but I would do it again :)
I bought a Var tool, it has become quite chewed up, which is frustrating as they are not cheap. Luckily it still works. You want to do all this with the hub built in a wheel, it really takes a lot of force to get a stuck one off. [If the hub isn't in a wheel I think you need to take the freewheel apart, clamp in a vice, etc. I haven't done that, but there are descriptions elsewhere if you search.] The tool goes in the 2 large slots and then you use a big-ass wrench to turn the tool. Use a skewer to hold the tool on the freewheel, but after it releases remember to loosen the skewer. I was so enraged at this point I didn't and stripped the $£!##!#£ threads from my hub. Still living with that expensive mistake.
The pinholes are for removing the face plate allowing you to disassemble / service the body. If the freehwheel turns nicely I wouldn't bother taking off the plate again. My experience with those pinholes is the plate is on so tight you need to use a punch. I'd probably soak / try and flush with kerosene and then oil with something like Phil Tenacious Oil or alternative. As mentioned above, in my experience you have to be an octopus to get all the balls and pawls back in and put the body back together. They will go everywhere, so if you open it, do it carefully over an ice-cream tub or something. I used grease to stick them all in place while reassembling and there's a trick with cotton thread to hold the pawls but I'm buggered if I could do it easily.
You can get all but 1 sprocket off the body using 2 chain whips. Using a fine wire wool on the sprockets (even the gold ones) brings them up nicely and you can do the one not removed in place.
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And some detail shots. The pedals were a present from Santa, but I think I might go back to clipless - not great struggling to get in to your clips pulling away from the lights riding a show pony like this :)
Anyway, all modern components, but I wanted it to look classic to match the frame ... the Phil hubs look a little like Harden 'Bacon Slicers', Brooks saddle, shellac'd cloth tape, polished off the black anodizing on the lever, etc.
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I finally managed to take some more, hopefully decent, pictures. I've been riding it fairly often - not far and not up any hills, but great for a flat 20k. So this afternoon I've given it a good clean and tried to arrange some artful shots!
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Great work, lovely bike. Hanger and everything else looks great.
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Anyone got any advice on treating rubber handlebar grips? I bought a set of the green Dare grips from Hilary (with the Stronglight bb). I gave them a wash in soapy water last night and they look in good condition, just wondering if I should do anything more to keep/make them supple. @BigBlock I remember seeing in one of your builds you used some yellow ones (looked great btw) but can't remember which one / where I saw it.
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Yep, I can resist. I do like the Zephyr but I think if I test s-1 again I think it'll be a mid 50s road bike - got some nice bits needing a frame.