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hah, thanks for the confidence boost tester :). I was a little reserved heading down the sliproad and a bit slow getting on to four went ways RB - dropped to 14 mph waiting for a car. I couldnt handle the tailwind out, at times the revs went up to 130-140 and i couldnt stay on the aero bars - too low and short. It felt like i was trying to do the plank the whole way round which distracted me a little from what my legs were doing. I think i have a new appreciation of the difficulty - not that i underestimated it. Grey Turnocks advice was along the lines of i use a freewheel- he set a 54 something. I kind of see the E2 as everest - tourists, where as the MG event is more like K2, slightly more nutty, bit of a killer etc

frustratingly clocked 1h00m35s in the Lea Valley MG 72" on fixed yesterday, 115 av cadence. oh well..next year for another go.

it would appear the change also coincided with a change in carbon weave as my hed with the yellow/orange faded sticker is like the above wheel and features the hub in the schematic. Hed seemed to have their own version of a fixxer type adapter, did they actually invent it? My Pro Am disc is fitted with something like that but it isnt removeable - likewise my rear spinergy rev-x is the same.

I have a new set of Open Pro CD i was going to swap out some knackered rims on current wheelset i own but ive since decided to build a fresh pair of round things instead...so has anyone got any nice hubs they are looking to shift. No thinking Chris King or Royce levels but i dont really want low end either. Something like Grey Ultegra 6800 would go nice or Hope etc
TA

much to my mums discontent, i installed 1" crowns with a metal pipe from a miele vacuum cleaner, it was perfect size but after a couple it starts to kink on the edges

if you want to touch it up cheaply on the welded part then take the frame into B&Q and they can scan the yellow. Buy a tester pot of mixed paint for about a 5er and then just lacquer the repair with something like a brushed on modelling laquer - the valspar paint or whatever they call it isnt resistant or hard like an enamel etc so it needs a protective coat but it would hide the repair from afar. Im not sure who else do a cheap colour matching service. Otherwise it could be buying a few pots of humbrol and mixing it by eye? Id leave the rest of the frame as it.

heres how its coming along

I think part of the issue is my lockup is freezing cold, im struggling to stay there for more than a couple of hours at a time with a tiny radiator and rushing things and making silly mistakes. My masking tape decided to not peel off the frame so that made a huge load of work getting it de gunked etc

having a bit of a mare with the paint, tried a few faux chrome paints..all of which were awful and im making things worse. I think i may have to do something like this to save it.

if anyone has a new or good condition 60mm deep 700c rim sitting around, i know its a bit specific but looking for 24h, width not such an issue & generic chinese/planet x types are fine.

Thanks

coming soon, wasnt totally happy with some of the work i did so lots of sanding and re-doing stuff.

it has been bonded now at both points. I have laminated the tube so it has a step that butts up against the steel at each end, like double butted tubing but externally - it has more of a vase shape now than a straight tube. I have topped it with a slightly more cosmetic UD carbon layer. I bonded in a couple of inches of 25mm seatpost in the top of my integrated post to provide the clamping area. The section of steel tube i removed weighed 291g. I replaced it with material weighing 100g ish so its considerably lighter. This was no thoroughbred frame to begin with but it now weighs 1967g in a 60cm size which is pretty decent considering i dont need to add a seatpost.

So this is just trying out a pre made carbon tube, its not bonded in or anything at this stage, im aware its best to use some fiberglass medium in between the metal and carbon to avoid the bond breaking down. It is also too thin and would need reinforcement. Gives you an idea..

Things to consider are which adhesive would be best.

I assume that if it sets too hard it may be brittle?

Ok so the frame had an accident...i have too many bikes and i take it in turns to give them an outing however i rode this bike out in the rain a few times and then put it away for a fair while. Eventually i went to adjust the seatpost and found it totally stuck , i tried to saw down through it but low end Ritchey posts are very thick and even 3 or 4 deep cuts wasnt allowing it to collapse inward to aid removal. The struggle continued for what felt like weeks and every genius idea failed. I really didnt want to resort to caustic soda so gave it another go in the vice, but using the frame as leverage broke the seat tube :( it didnt sheer clean through but it creased and possibly partially broke under the powdercoat.

so..

The next installment involves the cutting out of the tube and repairing the frame with an integrated post, ive always fancied one of the early bonded Look frames or an Allez comp/vitus/giant etc so i suppose i wanted to see if i could do something along those lines.

unfortunately my dream ended in the Uve Been Indra'd thread https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/230993/?offset=2025#comment14557996

warranty? i thought AC went bust

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+1 Finished it today clocking up 548k in total over the week in 19h. I think thats an average of just under 18mph riding around Essex so not exactly flying but i was riding with mudguards etc. Its been a good, ive ventured to places ive not gone to before and managed to use a few roads that would normally be too busy. Buying some decent lights and getting motivated by this challenge help me smash my previous best monthly total which i totally didnt expect at the beginning of December.

Theres coding to control hardware and coding within apps such as cartoon animation or making a game where x action has an certain effect.

Programming languages(taken from BBC bitesize)

"A programming language is a specially written code used for writing applications. C++ and Java are examples of programming languages. These are known as high level languages because they have been developed to be a little like a human language.

High level languages are much easier to use than a low level language such as Machine Code, or Assembly Language. The advantage of a low level language is that it runs very fast on the computer."

So.. Everything Pi will be various forms of High Level Language

Largely the Pi is useful for its Input output pins, the idea being you program it to control what its doing to things connected to those pins the most common way being to use a breadboard and various components and suitable wires between them as a prototype to a circuit board. Its a shame Maplin has closed..

Anyhow to get the device going you need
an SD card to hold the Rom (software image of your choice to boot the Pi) and a way to get the image on to it for example a phone may have a micro SD slot or PC/Laptop may have a normal SD slot for which you would need the card adapter.
Power via the micro USB
A keyboard/mouse and screen connection
A tutorial series such as
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQVvvaa0QuDesV8WWHLLXW_avmTzHmJLv

If you watch the series it will give you yourself an understanding of the device regardless on if you actually do the things he suggets such as updates etc.

Raspberrypi.org is the best resource to start with
Follow the Noobs method to install a Linux Distribution ie Raspbian
Once you have an operating system you can use it much like a pc especially as the pi3 has wifi. Then you would be able to get applications on to it that are more suitable/fun for a 7 year old.

ah yes, ive had this, undo the axle with an allen key on the NDS, pull off the freehub and get some oil in the pawls and the surface of the nylon part. Mine did that and would start making the chain slap the stay as it freewheeled intermittently. If you use grease it tends to be too thick and not really help.

hah, yup hence the sensible..like a pair of aksiums, dead weight but probably quite dependable. Truth of the matter is in the past few years ive gone there i've had less issues with my cheap novatec hubs & chinese rims than others were having with their pretty expensive gear (reynolds aero something or other melting brake surface, shamals with broken spokes on a morning ride before the flight home is always fun, and that guy that took worn out hyperons etc). Its supposed to be training so i dont take the best bike. I wish i were as rich as some of my other club members that seemed to think nothing of riding their Zipps and Bora Ultras through muddy crap the last few days. Ive been notching up the same ride distances on a 15Kg steel bike with 105-1055/ma3/mudguards/lights/tool bag and hopefully it'll pay off when the time comes for racing.

Bought this old frame from a forum member a few months back. The paint scheme is afterburner from looking at old catalogs. Still not sure what parts to throw at it . I have a pair of spinergys but was just trying to be different from the saeco builds. I think it needs > inline/longer stem. Bit of a wip but cant be bothered to do a CP thread currently. Half tempted to take it to Mallorca with me in February if i get a sensible build going

i had a composite wheel i stripped, they put the wrong kind of lacquer on, only months later did i notice the surface starting to leech when i took it out of a wheel bag to find it had started to stick to the fabric and in general had gone sticky again. Its for that reason that i only strip carbon frames with rather laborious hand sanding and no chemicals. :(

im going with cracked as its a common place to get them-sure it may have travelled in a slightly different orientation but i believe its going to spread around the base of the seat tube and eventually to a leading edge of the down tube. https://plus.google.com/photos/109418883948018097346/album/5383315872552865249/5383315934084599426

Isnt one option a brazing torch and filler rod ? never tried it but saw one the other day and thought about it. im guessing you know its vital to drill little holes at the ends of the cracks to prevent them spreading and maybe get a sheet of 0.xmm steel whatever thickness it is to practice on. Also +1 on wanting to see this alive to ride another day.