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not all freewheel/bb tools are born equal, some have thinner walls and are hollow all the way through and will engage further in to the cup. I have found that style of BB cup to be haphazard though and often the splines just disintegrate. Normally i would bolt the tool on with a washer placed over the end if necessary and then a crank screw or similar inserted back into the axle, this then removes the possibility of the tool slipping out to get the cup moving. If you get one side and the cartridge unit out but the remaining cup still will not budge then i drew a diagram of a method - might be in hacks n bodges or mechanics and fixing threads.

Ive been riding around on these. Power pedals although nothing to do with measuring watts. Instead they only ratchet in one direction so as soon as you attempt to backpedal your legs lock. Proper lethal too in situations like stopping and putting a foot down and similar to using single sided pedal fixed gear. The idea was that they allow you to pull up on the pedals more convincingly - it may or may not have any merit but a 70 mile ride using them was fairly knackering. Theyre made of magnesium/titanium and have really nice bearings in them but are not lightweight and the cleat design is stupid - the front edge releases rather than the rear ie 90 odd percent of pedal designs out there. This leads to rather an uncomfortable rotation of the foot - heel inwards to release and pivoting the toes down to clip in.

Hah, Ok yeah that does seem standard but what i mean is handing me one of those aero fully carbon things he had made.

Hes a thoroughly nice guy, ive had the pleasure of meeting him and talking to him on the occasion he turns up to do the Maldon club TT, theres no arrogance, he just becomes another rider at the event that will show you his kit and let you lean on his bars, look at his shoes etc. He has also made appearances at North Weald TLI races which have sadly now been canned.

Feel for him. Around lap 170 it looked like he had a wobbly moment and lost a load of pace. Clearly he destroyed himself trying and massive respect for that.

i think you put it in before pushing the axle through as the axle has a fixed collar/washer that is too big an ID for the cap to push on over

a lot of those old brifters have issues with sticky grease and non working ratchets, easy enough to sort if you know where to apply some vaseline oil and activate the clasp with a 'pokey thing'. Also ive seen people miss the hole the actual gear cable goes through and get the cable head jammed inbetween the rotating part and the body in such a way it seems as though its trying to shift. As silly as it sounds you need to check that. Theres a little grub nut that helps secure the blades axle pin to the body and this needs to be removed to be able to push the pin out. With the blade and hence mechanism removed you can set about getting under the plastic cap at the rear of the mechanism. Sometimes you can free the catch and release the ratchet if its stuck in a loaded position or if its stuck open and slips you can free it up to click properly- its a little bit like a manual winding watch except not as delicate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkGNN_2CfCY
actually watch this it help.

Saw half a dozen f15s fly over Witham in Essex at approx 10am. I went on flight radar but couldnt identify them on there a short while later however i did see there were 4 Eurofighters in the air near yorkshire, one of which was mid air refuelling by an aircraft labelled 'apollo'. Heard further jet activity near Colchester later on in the day as well as Military choppers.

surely more about popping the front and getting in crank rotations right up until you air and having feet in the right position leaving a jump?

Cytech will ultimately only tech someone a fraction of what they will encounter in the real world, better than nothing but not much better than saying ' i do all my own bikes '. We recently had a new cycling circuit open nearby and they wanted to contract out the maintenance of the bicycle fleet, first question on the phone was 'do you have a cytech qualified mechanic? ' to which i passed the phone over to the manager.. 'no, we have a mechanic with 20 years experience including team support in uci races as opposed to one thats sat a week long course' was the reply. I felt pretty good about that. If you write good notes on each job either via lightspeed or some other epos to cover your work, have insurance etc and can show you have some kind of safety 'M' check before releasing a bike then theres no reason to make it a requirement.

i used them for a couple of old steel frames, Initially i wanted wet paint in original pearl white but was convinced to have white powder coating with a sparkly lacquer. It came back a bit heavily coated, lots of work to get the threads chased and silly things like brake nuts or ferrules into guides. The other had bubbling underneath the stay but i didnt notice it at the time as i peeked into the bubble wrap and the frame wasnt built up straight away but it was a little disappointing once discovered. Some of the fitment issues are things you might get with any powdercoating and i expected it to a degree but had to cut my way in in a few places like the seat collar slot which was bridged with coating on both frames.

700c is only a 'sort of' standard with small variations of erto 622mm rim bead and tyre bead sizes meaning some tyres go on certain rims well but are difficult to fit on others. Are the tyres wired or folding bead? are they new or have previously been levered? Navigator pista are narrow rims but i found wired vittorias a little hard to seat fully and that wasnt the case with contis. Likewise i recently had a customer with basic alloy wheels from a giant which were about 2mm smaller in diameter to another rim placed next to it. Consequently every tyre we tried just blew straight off the rim until we tried folding bead Ultra sport 3s.

AZ jab 1 week a go, feel more shite now than i have the last few days. Arms ached for the firt day. Second day i woke a little groggy and wasnt a fan of bright sunshine.

I've had a funny smell/taste going on a bit like perfume with a hint of acetone and lacquer. I can still taste stuff ok but theres a persistant hint of something weird. Ive had strange feelings on the crown of my head - a slight headache. Ive noticed that i sweat more in a warm environment and i ache more the following day after an exertion - did some work under my car swapping an exhaust and today im knackered/achey. Ive done it loads of times in the past but never really suffered for it. In general a bit of this n that all over but not horrendous.

long covid vaccine?

theyre the same as any generic BB, 25mm id bearing with a plastic seal that also acts as the axle shim. If that part knocks out easily then theres really nothing to stop you just buying replacement bearings rather than complete BBs. If its a pressfit cup then chances are its not aligned well in the frame.

Just found this thread..
After spending several days out at the Tour de Martinique as soigneur for our team a while back i really got into Rhum at breakfast and planteurs or punch coco in the evening. We were plied with gallons of strong coffee from sponsor La Tivolienne before stages so spent most of the time buzzing. I did bring back a bottle of Single cask Clément from 2001 although i probably should have gone for a Rhum JM Agricole, it seemed to be more cherished by the locals.

id imagine its wound out that blocks them as the bleeding advice is to start with them strapped back to the handlebars

on some hydro brakes if the adjuster for lever reach is wound too far in/out then it wont bleed. Id look under the lever body for the adjuster on the piston throw.

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2 sqaero fails, even the new clamp design didnt improve things as they split in the corners instead

so in the pic your crank doesnt have the safety pin engaged so is it fully seated? It looks a little like a wheelsmfg bb that screws into itselfhowever im prettysure these do come with some plastic shims because not all 24mm axle cranks are equal yet alone bb shell widths. I'd remove the crank again, check splines and clean them incase debris is preventing the arm going on fully.

twas me, but weirdly this says caad 4 and mines deffo a caad 2 so somethings going on here
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/208940/?offset=10675#comment14553142

After some time gathering dust i have rebuilt the bike albeit with very beater parts - downtube shifters and a mix of old and fairly knackered ultegra parts but first i'll share the saddle mod. So far about 500 miles ridden and the bike feels great.

Take your worst flite, rip off the cover and skin it to look somewhat like the rare carbon version i have always fancied..

you'll get a postcard/RM letter through the door with the relevant info on it and then you can pay/clear you item and choose delivery date from what i recall

if it leaks out the little pressure venting holes out the sides of the shifter body then its dead - seal has blown. Tends to happen when people force pressure into the system - it happens.. . The R series have a small design flaw - i say that when really its user error but if you use a syringe kit with a deep nozzle/fitting then its possible to put a hole in the compensation seal as it overlaps the fill port and gets pinched inside the body. Shimano dont sell the seals and instead replace the whole shifter - which currently is a rather long wait to have done via Madison. Just use the plastic funnel as per instructions in all cases.

I dont believe the part is available. A DIY fix is likely to be a waste of time. In short you have to replace the whole shifter.