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Probably best here: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/311246/?offset=1500#comment17589460

Cerakote also an option? There is a guy specialising in bikes doing it in Germany : https://www.b-schicht.de. They did the powder coating job on my Hulsroy x AWOL and I recently got a quote from them for Cerakote on another frame and cost was in line with wet paint.

Curious who is building the frame for you?

Also this from Sour bikes: https://sour.bike/shop/accessories/forks/sour-business-fork/ rated for 15kg weight on the rack. Not internal routing of the rear dynamo cable but has a nice 3d printed guide for the cable under the crown.

Actually very similar specs to what I have been looking for. Particularly the rear dynamo routing back through the steerer is not so common.

One option that does tick the boxes is this from 8bar: https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/gravel-carbon-disc-fork-for-light-fender/

It’s a shape/design that you see used by a lot of companies, so it must be from one of the big manufacturers in China/Taiwan.

The new Fairlight Cempa fork on the Secan 3.0 has a bonded in metal section for just this purpose. Also I’ve been doing some searching for Carbon forks lately and I believe the Seido MGV is made by Speeder whose ‘gravel adventure’ model is very similar shape and features and will cost you $120 USD. You’d have to check with them whether it is also rack capable though. I think Stinner and Standert both use forks from Speeder so they seem to be decent quality.

Anyone got a tool to remove the cups of a semi-internal headset from a 44mm head tube I could borrow in exchange for beers/treats?

I came to a similar conclusion when I made an order recently, only thing that made me decide for rims in the end was the hope that I can find the hubs I want 2nd hand.

I do have another full wheel built by LB though and the build quality has been great so that also speaks for getting full builds from them.

Hiking in Corsica is soo good huh! Which sections of the GR20 did you do?

We went a few years ago and did 5 days in the Center/South of the island and then hiked through the Agriates desert in the North. It was touch and go checking the fire maps every day to see if the trails were still open but amazing to have so many different landscapes in one trip.

Still haven’t got round to trimming the steerer or fitting a shorter axle BB but I think this picture adequately captures how this bike makes me feel.

I think it’s because on the one hand it feels very familiar and reminds me of many good memories from riding it over the years but at the same time there is also a sense of a newness after the makeover from @Hulsroy

I’ve been trying to get out for fewer longer, but slower, fall season rides over the last few weeks. Leaving the Garmin at home and exploring some of the bike paths outside of Berlin and there is some great riding once you break through the slog getting out of the city!

Maybe this is old news, but I think the handlebar end integrated Di2 charger from Purple Dog customs is pretty neat, charges your Di2 battery direct from Dynamo hub.

Ah but with regards to the description of the Ritchey break-away portion of the frame they have actually been quite deliberate in avoiding referring to it as coming from Ritchey:

"There is also a clamp on the seat tube. We use the seatpost as an internal structure within the seat tube as part of the clamping system. The seatpost is actually the part that is clamped. That way you have a very robust structure that doesn’t result in extra flex because essentially you have two tubes – the seatpost and the seat tube around it – reinforcing each other."

Perhaps for the very reason of the patent? Which is why it seems strange that they then call the downtube coupler an S&S coupler when it clearly isn't an official one.

Not knocking the product but there is some dubious marketing in that article.

Pretty certain that Gloria frames are made by Waltly or similar manufacturer (I’ve seen quite a few Waltly’s using this coupler arrangement) and there is nothing wrong with this per se, but they don’t use genuine S&S parts for the couplers so to have that linked in the article is a bit misleading. Even just looking at the pictures of the bike you can see the coupler looks different from the S&S ones.

Also only mentioning Ritchey, No22 and Firefly as making travel bikes is a bit weird as the latter two are custom frame builders and there are other manufacturers that offer off the shelf coupler models like Co-motion cycles.

Thanks I think you’re right Speeder are the original manufacturer, at least judging by the fact that they offer customisation options for the fork.

Does anyone know which of the big name chinese manufacturers makes this fork?

It's one of those that many brands seem to use e.g. Reilly and Windover in the UK, Kocmo and Chirp Chirp cycles in Germany etc.

These frames do look interesting, some pictures seem to show what I assume is a kickstand plate between the chainstays? I have enough spares in the parts box and having talking about building up a bike for my partner for a while now so might give one of these a go.

Seems strange though as the user has a quite a long history of selling quite high value stuff here without any problems before.

Have you put this up in the bad traders thread yet? https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/171676/newest/

I think the bottle colour will work well with the green Ecopak I was planning to use for the bags

Some nice things arrived in the post from 🇩🇰
I love that they place the bottles nice and low, so they’ll be plenty of room for a good sized half frame bag.

For practicing track standing try it on a gentle uphill slope, not steep just very slight. Roll into it, slowing your pedal stroke and reduce the speed with your brake. Try to roll into to a position with your cranks horizontal (I.e. 3 and 9 O’clock positions). Stand up out of the saddle and turn your front wheel slightly perhaps 20-30 degrees. Now al you have to do is keep the cranks level. If you start to roll backwards apply downward pressure on your lead foot. Vice versa for rolling forward.

The hardest thing to get right is the timing of arriving in a good position with cranks level.

Of course, it also translates to non-fixed drivetrains but it’s slightly harder to adjust forward and backward motion given that you can free wheel.

You’re braver than me for doing it at home! I’ve been planning to put a co-axial connector in the same place on my dynamo light but I definitely need some soldering practice first. I have used the supernova gold connectors before, which only need crimping, and I still find installing them a delicate process.

What’s the plan fr the rear light cable run? Is there enough room underneath the fender? What’s your go to for attaching it? I’ve done duct tape in the past but it has always peeled off after a while.

Thanks!

Yeh I just found this out the other day when I tried to check the opening hours. It's a shame because it was a really cool store too. Went twice and both times came away with more than I needed because there were some many nice things.

Definitely have some advice to ask you on good approaches for bolt-on frame bags. Will send a PM when I get round to it.

Last jobs:

• Trim the steerer
  
• Wire up the dynamo lights
  
• Shorter axle BB
  
• Maybe less shouty tyres
  
• Some wide mudguards: Got a saved search for 2nd hand Honjos but the super wide PDWs are much more available.
  
• Winter time will hopefully be bag-making time but I’m also supposed to be finalising my PhD…
  
  

Oh and a pair of Hulsroy bottle cages are inbound

Splurged on some fancy bar tape but there was some post-purchase justification when I found that one set is actually enough for two pairs of bars. I think the colour works well with the frame.

Found some Shimano m730 cranks which are a much better fit than the cannondale ones.